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When I try to start the tiller, the pull string does not pull smothe, and I can pull fast enough to start it, its like it's catching on something

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If the tiller was stored for awhile mice will get in to the flywheel section and build a nest in there. You can check it by removing the recoil housing and see if there is debree around the flywheel and coil. It all has to be scrapped out if it is there. Also you could have a stuck intake or exhaust valve and when the cam comes around to open it since it is stuck it would be hard to open causing resistance.

Posted on Mar 11, 2011


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017


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My craftsman 5hp tiller hit large rock, tines stopped, loud noise followed and now pull string won't budge. Why?

most tillers are equipped with a shear pin down by the tines. for this reason. if you hit something it will shear the pin and not do damage to your machine. it don't sound like that happened here. make sure the tines are disengaged. if the rope wont pull it may have sheared the flywheel key. there are videos on you tube that will show you how to take off the cover, the flywheel and check to see if this has happened. it may have locked the engine up at the worst scenario.

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You might try using an upper cylinder lubricant to free it up. Use a very light oil such as marvel mystery oil and begin with placing a few drops on top of the piston - you will have to take the spark plug out in order to insert the oil. Let it sit overnight with the oil and then try turning it over with the rope. Hope this helps.

Mar 18, 2012 | Yard Machines Tiller 208cc 18in Tilling...

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My Mantis tiller is 9 or 10 years old. I've recently had the carburetor replaced but this year the tiller won't idle. The tines want to turn and you have to hold in the air to start it and move it to the...

My name is Dane and I am going to assist you in solving your problem.

You should have an idle screw adjustment on the carb to adjust the idle RPM. As you pull the trigger, watch on the carburetor for a small moving plate. The idle screw should touch that plate. Be very careful, and have someone hold the tiller and start it. Back off the screw just enough until the tines stop turning. I hope I've helped. If you found this reply useful, please leave me some THUMBS UP, if you feel I've deserved them. Thank you! Dane

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1 Answer

Engines pulls very hard and won't start. Unit has

Sounds like the engine needs oil. You can also spray WD40 around the shaft. This will help loosen it up a bit, perhaps enough to allow it to start. The other possibility is that you have something wrapped around the shaft that is causing a restriction to the pulley.
Hope this helps.

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Need info. on old montgomery ward powerkraft tiller. model: # giL1580 se rial:#0323f1 437. tiller needs new 2 new belts for starters. i dont know how or where to get the correct ones. has briggs and...

if it has old belts pull them off and go to any parts store for them to be matched up. if not get you a piece of good strong string and run the string around where the belt goes and measure belt lenth that way.

Oct 21, 2009 | Garden

1 Answer


under the housing where the pull cord is found is a latch type item with what they cal daugs, when you pull the cord the daugs fly out and catch into slots which will loch to start the engine, try some WD40 spray lube to free the daugs if this dosn't do the job you may end up getting a new housing or starter assembly

Sep 27, 2009 | Craftsman Garden

1 Answer

TB144 pull cord does not catch, pulls free--no start

yes exactly what i would do sounds like the springs are either worn or gummed up or just broken on the dog ears

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1 Answer

Cord is frozen and tiller won't start

take pull rope cover off and oil the clutch that screws on the crank shaft

Apr 24, 2009 | Mantis Tiller

2 Answers

Rear Window was broken have a new one, but how do I replace it?

On the interior, there is a rubber lip surrounding the window. This rubber lip holds the glass in place. Here is how to remove without breaking stuff: Collect about 6 sticks (more is better) that are flat and preferabley made of something a little bendable. The ones I use are plastic and measure 8 inches by 1/4 inch by 1 inch and taper down to a blunt, rounded blade at the end.
From the interior, pull back the rubber lip where it meets the cab... not the glass. Where the lip meets the cab, you jam one of the sticks in place so it holds the rubber lip away from the cab of the truck (towards the glass). Start near a corner. About 4 inches away, do this again. Keep doing this until you have all the sticks in place. I found that doing this around one end of the glass (driver or passenger side) allows me to work that end out and the rest will come out with minimal hassle.
To install:
Place window on stand and wrap rubber gasket around window.
Run a string that is about an 1/8 or 3/16 diameter into the groove that grabs the pinchweld of the cab. The string should be long enough to overlap. Overlap by at least a couple of inches. Tape excess string to interior of window.
Have help to jam the bottom of window INTO the cab opening and try to center as best you can.
While applying LIGHT pressure to outside of window, pull one end of string. What you are watching for is that the rubber lip at least catches the cab pinchweld. If you miss this, you will have to start over. (Sometimes you can save it if you have a hook tool handy. A hook tool is essentially a screwdriver bent sharply at a 90 degree angle.)
If you do it right, as you pull the string, it will pull the rubber lip toward the interior of the truck and it will catch the pinchweld of the window opening. A little messaging and slapping of the window will fully seat the glass.
You are done.

Feb 21, 2009 | 1995 Nissan Pickup

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