Question about Heat Controller Heating & Cooling

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My heat-pump went into lockout due to low water pressure. The pressure is back up to 50psi. After shorting between the test pins, the unit starts but the status light still flash about every 10 sec and then goes back into lockout. Is there anything I can do tonite to get it up and running.

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The unit has a hi pressure safty switch on it, probally has a red push button on top. when the water slows down or stops the hi pressure trips to shut unit down to prevent compressor damage, the switch does not reset it self, find it in the outdoor unit and reset it, let me know. thanks wally.

Posted on Mar 11, 2011

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1 Answer

Very low water pressure and excessive pump running


Clean electric switchcontacts with crocus cloth. Adjust higher cut in pressure on this switch.

Apr 12, 2014 | Wayne WATER SYSTEMS SWS50-12P 1/2 HP...

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EC89 HARD TRIPS RESET ON COLD STARTS.SOMETIMES WONT FILL AT ALL.WHEN IT DOES WILL NOT FILL PAST 50PSI


Several things to check. Check amp draw with meter to make sure that the reset is not bad. It amp meter is showing low amp draw when it trips, then replace reset. If reset is good check condition of the cold start valve. The valve will not allow pressure to build until motor is at full rpm and the pump is making good pressure/volume. If cold start valve does not close, check pump for leaking or broken reed valves. If cold start valve is good, check the capacitor for at least 10 percent of rated valve. Low pressure /volume is usually leaks from tubing or leaking /broken reed valves or burned gaskets in the head of the pump. Finally, make sure that the check valve or non-return valve is not leaking pressure from the tank causing back pressure. Good luck

Mar 23, 2014 | Hitachi EC89 4 Gallon Twin Stack Air...

1 Answer

2001 acura mdx wont start. cant hear fuel pump.


going backwards, ? (yes, i to check volts first) but...
you check fuel pressure cranking, (is press in spec or not?)
the FSM covers this, 1/.2 the cars only get pump activation,,
cranking and running, never just key on (the fsm shows this fact, i didnt look for you)
Yours is older loop system, not dead head.
there are 5 test just for the pump, (actually more)
pressure cranking and running, (leakdown test and injector balance tests and shut test for loop version) on V6 that 6 +4 ,10 total tests.
once the gauge is in place we do all 10s tests on v6.

ok say my pressure spec. is 40psi cranking and i get 10.?

spec: 32-40 running, pSI, vac, hose conn. (cranking will be more)
in loop systems the cranking pressure is about 10 PSI more.
after it starts, the vacuum sucks pressure from say 50psi to 40.
(its also altitude compensating)

Voltage checks, (any voltmeter)
use a voltmeter to see if full power reaches the pump.
i check voltage and its 8v. (bad) cranking volts can be near 11v due
to battery load, 200amps or so... what i do is measure battery crank
voltage and expect same to pump , using the 0.5v rule. (drop)
the connector over here to pump is all corroded. ,,
fix that and bam, now full presssure
or i find a bad fuel pump relay, replace that and bam.
or i find 0v, to pump.
i find relay bad. (simple tests on relay) (its not bad ECU)
ok i find 12v. at pump. so what is wrong?, i check my fuel pressure
regulator at the fuel rail, its stuck wide open because the shunt test
passed (one of 4 tests above) so new reg and bam, 40psi to rail.
i can test the reg with my hand vacuum tool that all shops have.
i can see pressure, running and cranking and check fuel pressure
with no vacuum (50psi?) then pump it to say 20 "hg (simulates idle)
and see 40 pSI, and check the diaphram for leak down.
my reg was bad.
there are other tests:
1: fuel pump current. (if excessive, its a bad pump)
2: scope test or use a current probe on pump and see it spiking
like made, , it has bad commutator and will die so.

there great videos on all this at. Duane's site.
http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=fuel%20pump&sm=3

check the pump cranking

do not hot wire the fuel pump relay
if you slip 1/.8" you blow up a nice $400 ECU, (or more)
the ECU drives this relay (with a transistor, you dont want to explode)
if you feel compelled to hot wire things, disconnect the pump
and hot wire that.
now the relay.
it has 4 pins 12vdc in, 12vdc out to pump (contacts)
and 2 coil pins.
you put your meter to coil pins (across) i get 12v to coil cranking and running, that is the ECU working right
i get 12vdc in and zero out the contacts, the relay is bad.
lets say you see 3v out, that can be a shorted pump. or wire grounded out to pump. I check the current with my amp clamp and see 15amps
the pump is bad. most draw 4-6amps. normal.
i keep an open mind, what is bad, its only the pump 1/2 the time
or less. maybe 1/3? (reg, pump, wires and friends)
corroded connectors big time...some even burned up.





Feb 09, 2014 | 2001 Acura MDX

1 Answer

I lowered my water pressure on the tank because my water line pressure was 62 psi, and ruptured my water heater. Now my water pump runs almost all the time. How to I set up my tank properly.


pressure switch,look under cover tells you how too set there's low set and high set,look at pressure guage should click on at 30psi shut off at 50psi, adjust to this, just be careful don.t get shocked'power goes to switch for your pump. that would be first thing i'd check.

Jan 24, 2011 | Plumbing

2 Answers

Hey, I just had a Flotec Series FP4300 installed for my well and the manual says that it should go to 50psi and turn off, but the pressure gauge stays at 30psi and does not go any higher so it just keeps...


http://www.depcopump.com/datasheets/flotec/FP313-EN.pdf
Maybe your check valve is letting water go back down the well.

Troubleshooting steps pg 13 in manual list several things.
Check air valve for leaks.
Flowtec has a customer service number:
1-800-365-6832

The manual says: "Your new pump has a 30/50 PSI
switch, so adjust the tank pre-charge pressure to 28 PSI.:
But the manual does not say or show how to adjust pre-charge pressure.
The 30/50PSI means the pump turns on when pressure falls to 30, and then runs until pressure rises to to 50. So the switch is preset and not adjustable.

geno_3245_25.jpg

Nov 09, 2010 | Flotec Electrical Supplies

1 Answer

What are the carrier 8000ts led error codes?


They are listed inside the front panel of the main unit.

LED CODE

EACH OF THE FOLLOWING STATUS CODES IS A TWO DIGIT NUMBER WITH THE FIRST

DIGIT DETERMINED BY THE NUMBER OF SHORT FLASHES AND THE SECOND DIGIT BY

THE NUMBER OF LONG FLASHES.

STATUS

11 NO PREVIOUS CODE - Stored status code is erased automatically after 72

hours. On RED LED boards stored status codes can also be erased when power

(115 VAC or 24 VAC) to control is interrupted.

12 BLOWER ON AFTER POWER UP (115 VAC or 24 VAC) -Blower runs for 90

seconds, if unit is powered up during a call for heat (R-W closed) or R-W opens

during blower on-delay.

13 LIMIT CIRCUIT LOCKOUT - Lockout occurs if the limit or flame rollout switch is

open longer than 3 minutes.

- Control will auto reset after three hours. - Refer to #33.

14 IGNITION LOCKOUT - Control will auto-reset after three hours. Refer to #34.

21 GAS HEATING LOCKOUT - Control will NOT auto reset.

Check for: - Mis-wired gas valve -Defective control (valve relay)

22 ABNORMAL FLAME-PROVING SIGNAL - Flame is proved while gas valve is

de-energized. Inducer will run until fault is cleared. Check for:

- Leaky gas valve - Stuck-open gas valve

23 PRESSURE SWITCH DID NOT OPEN Check for:

- Obstructed pressure tubing. - Pressure switch stuck closed.

24 SECONDARY VOLTAGE FUSE IS OPEN Check for:

- Short circuit in secondary voltage (24VAC) wiring.

31 PRESSURE SWITCH DID NOT CLOSE OR REOPENED - If open longer than

five minutes, inducer shuts off for 15 minutes before retry. Check for:

- Excessive wind - Proper vent sizing - Defective inducer motor

- Low inducer voltage (115VAC) - Defective pressure switch

- Inadequate combustion air supply - Restricted vent

- Disconnected or obstructed pressure tubing

- Low inlet gas pressure (if LGPS used)

If it opens during blower on-delay period, blower will come on for the selected

blower off-delay.

33 LIMIT CIRCUIT FAULT - Indicates a limit, or flame rollout is open. Blower will

run for 4 minutes or until open switch remakes whichever is longer. If open

longer than 3 minutes, code changes to lockout #13. If open less than 3 minutes

status code #33 continues to flash until blower shuts off. Flame rollout switch

requires manual reset. Check for: - Restricted vent

- Proper vent sizing - Loose blower wheel - Excessive wind

- Dirty filter or restricted duct system.

- Defective blower motor or capacitor. - Defective switch or connections.

- Inadequate combustion air supply (Flame Roll-out Switch open).

34 IGNITION PROVING FAILURE - Control will try three more times before lockout

#14 occurs. If flame signal lost during blower on-delay period, blower will come

on for the selected blower off-delay. Check for: - Control ground continuity

- Flame sensor must not be grounded

- Oxide buildup on flame sensor (clean with fine steel wool).

- Proper flame sense microamps (.5 microamps D.C. min., 4.0 - 6.0 nominal).

- Gas valve defective or gas valve turned off - Manual valve shut-off

- Defective Hot Surface Ignitor

- Low inlet gas pressure

- Inadequate flame carryover or rough ignition

- Green/Yellow wire MUST be connected to furnace sheet metal

45 CONTROL CIRCUITRY LOCKOUT Auto-reset after one hour lockout due to;

- Gas valve relay stuck open - Flame sense circuit failure

- Software check error

Reset power to clear lockout. Replace control if status code repeats.

If status code recall is needed, briefly remove then reconnect one main limit wire to display

stored status code. On RED LED boards do not remove power or blower door before initiating

status code recall. After one status code recall is completed component test will occur.


Thanks for Choosing FixYa.


Kelly

Oct 05, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Engine runs fine but unit won't pump water.


Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly

I am not sure which pump you have but there was one that was a real piece of **** and has since been discontinued due to a VERY SHORT service life.

This is going to sound odd... but tap with some conviction on the power head using a hammer and a "hard block" of wood with the unit static and then again with the engine at low speed. Your attemting to losen the check valve balls in the pressure head that sometimes get corrosion in the ball seat. Then test the output pressure. If your pump has a pressure output adjustment (black knob 3.5 inches long / high with a brass knurled lock nut under it) then losen the lock nut and back the adjustment off substantially and re-test pressure. Once you have output pressure return it to the previous position.

You have a 50 - 50 chance of getting your pressure back by doing the above steps.

Kelly

May 03, 2010 | Karcher 2500 PSI Pressure Washer

1 Answer

95 F150 2wd, interrupted fuel from the front fuel tank


my idea, the pumps are working agianst each other. what is the line pressure supposed to be? I think the rear pump is burning the new pumps up. is the rear pump running when the front pump is running? Let me know MrrodneyLong@gmail.com

Jul 03, 2008 | 1995 Ford F150 Styleside Regular Cab

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