Question about Refrigerators

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On a GE bottom freezer fridge with cooling coils & evaporator fan motor below fresh food bottom I had to remove ice buildup that had stalled fan.Drain seemed to be clear.Three weeks later seems like fridge has same problem.what could cause the ice buildup?Fridge is abit higher in front.I,m not sure if there was a flashback from the factory on some of those models or not. Rene

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  • Rene Matz Mar 11, 2011

    Hi: Will get back to check fridge next week.Lady had a new one delivered yesterday

  • Rene Matz Mar 15, 2011

    Hi
    Will get another look at this fridge today--I think theres something slowing the draining
    causing water to remain below fan motor.This model has the water draining from cooling
    coils thru an open trough under fan motor. Thanks Rene

  • Rene Matz Apr 03, 2011

    Hi
    Stopped by to check on fridge the other day--its working fine. I replaced the evaporator fan
    motor.Its probably the second one I,ve seen in 27 yrs. of service that stalled out as temp.
    lowered inside fridge.Both were GE fridges. Rene

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Hello Rene. The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system: The defrost timer The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch) The defrost heater If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem Joe Thanks for choosing Fixya

Posted on Mar 11, 2011

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Hi Rene....
This is a fairly common issue. What is happening is the freezer is not going through a defrost cycle. You defrosting it only masked the issue. If you continued to do it , it would always come back.
Here are the reasons that the refrigerator is not going through the defrost cycle.
Better yet forward your model number and I will be able to show you on a print the parts that may have gone bad.

Link for all appliance model numbers.

Please post your entire model number.

After you have clicked on the link below....

Just to the right of the "search" tab click on "help me find my model number"

Just click on the model of your choice In either video or image presentation

Then please repost the information.

Click on the link http://www.repairclinic.com/Appliance-Parts

Thanks....

Keith

Posted on Mar 12, 2011

  • Keith Drake
    Keith Drake Mar 15, 2011

    Another common issue.
    here is a video link to show you. Copy and paste into your browser. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ISdVxDUTs...

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1 Answer

My GE Monogram sidebyside...making a whiny noise. I opened freezer & there was ice & frost everywhere & all over everything. Freezer should be 0 and its 11, fresh food should be 37 and its 40....


your defrost heater behind the inside rear freezer panel is open or the defrost thermostat is bad and the ice buildup on the coils is probably touching the fan blades that move the cold air from the evaporator coil

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Coils keep freezing up its 4 years old


Iced-over evaporator coils, accompanied by a non-chilled fresh food compartment, happened in my GE side-by-side (model GSS20IEMDWW). For me, the problem was caused by a faulty temp sensor in the fresh food side. That sensor never signalled the computer that the temp in the fresh food side was cool enough, so the compressor ran constantly.

Since the compressor was running constantly, the evaporator coils (back wall of the freezer compartment) eventually iced over (took about a week). Since the fan that draws air over the evaporator coils could no longer move any air (due to the icing), the temperature in the fresh food side got warmer as well.

The fresh food side is chilled through a hole with a motorized door at the top of the dividing wall between compartments which opens when the fresh food side needs cooling. If no air is moving in the freezer compartment, temps in the fresh food compartment climb.

I replaced the temp sensor in the fresh food side and solved the problem for a while.

I bough a pair of thermometers at a kitchen store and put one in the freezer compartment and one in the fresh food compartment so that I could occasionally check to see if it made sense for the compressor to be running (ie, was it really necessary to be trying to cool either compartment, or were they already cold enough).

About six months later I had the coil icing problem again. This time the fresh food side seemed cool enough (according to the thermometer as well as the fact that the flapper door would close, indicating that the computer knew to not try to additionally cool the fresh food side).

The thermometer indicated that the temp in the freezer compartment was cold enough, but the system computer continued to run the compressor. So I replaced both temp sensors in the freezer compartment - which solved the problem again. (My fridge is about seven years old.)

If you are going to replace any of the temp sensors, replace them all under the principle of "if one failed, the rest will soon fail too".

Use a website like www.partselect.com to look up a parts diagram for your fridge and see if you can order just the temp sensors. Other websites (www.repairclinic.com and www.appliancepartsworldwide.com) may also be helpful. I have no affiliation with any of the sites I just mentioned - I'm just posting them as resources.

Jul 30, 2009 | GE GSS20IEP Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

The fridge and freezer stopped cooling. we defrosted it. There was frost in the freezer. Before that the ice on the door had stopped and now it works too.


Iced-over evaporator coils, accompanied by a non-chilled fresh food compartment, happened in my GE side-by-side (model GSS20IEMDWW). For me,the problem was caused by a faulty temp sensor in the fresh food side. That sensor never signaled the computer that the temp in the fresh food side was cool enough, so the compressor ran constantly.

Since the compressor was running constantly, the evaporator coils (back wall of the freezer compartment) eventually iced over (took about a week).Since the fan that draws air over the evaporator coils could no longer move any air (due to the icing), the temperature in the fresh food side got warmer as well.

The fresh food side is chilled through a hole with a motorized door at the top of the dividing wall between compartments which opens when the fresh food side needs cooling. If no air is moving in the freezer compartment, temps in the fresh food compartment climb.

I replaced the temp sensor in the fresh food side and solved the problem for a while.

I bought a pair of thermometers at a kitchen store and put one in the freezer compartment and one in the fresh food compartment so that I could occasionally check to see if it made sense for the compressor to be running (ie, was it really necessary to be trying to cool either compartment, or were they already cold enough).

About six months later I had the coil icing problem again. This time the fresh food side seemed cool enough (according to the thermometer as well as the fact that the flapper door would close, indicating that the computer knew to not try to additionally cool the fresh food side).

The thermometer indicated that the temp in the freezer compartment was cold enough, but the system computer continued to run the compressor. So I replaced both temp sensors in the freezer compartment - which solved the problem again. (My fridge is about seven years old.)

If you are going to replace any of the temp sensors, replace them all under the principle of "if one failed, the rest will soon fail too".

Use a website like www.partselect.com to look up a parts diagram for your fridge and see if you can order just the temp sensors. Other websites (www.repairclinic.com and www.appliancepartsworldwide.com) may also be helpful. I have no affiliation with any of the sites I just mentioned - I'm just posting them as resources.

Jul 29, 2009 | GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

The coils on my ge gss22wgpd bb side by side keep freezing up . IU can defrost them manually and the freezer and fridge work fine again.


This has happened in my GE side-by-side (model GSS20IEMDWW). For me, the problem was caused by a faulty temp sensor in the fresh food side. That sensor never signalled the computer that the temp in the fresh food side was cool enough, so the compressor ran constantly.

Since the compressor was running constantly, the evaporator coils (back wall of the freezer compartment) eventually iced over (took about a week). Since the fan that draws air over the evaporator coils could no longer move any air (due to the icing), the temperature in the fresh food side continued to climb. (The fresh food side is chilled through a hole with a motorized door at the top of the dividing wall, so if no air is moving in the freezer compartment, temps in the fresh food compartment climb.)

I replaced the temp sensor in the fresh food side and solved the problem for a while. About six months later I had the same problem again, so I replaced both temp sensors in the freezer compartment - which solved the problem again. (My fridge is about seven years old.)

If you are going to replace any of the temp sensors, replace them all under the principle of "if one failed, the rest will soon fail too".

This site has schematics of various appliances, including the model number you provided...
http://www.partselect.com/AdvancedModelSearch.aspx?ModelNum=GSS22WGPDBB&mfgModelNum=&fkMfgID=2

Your model appears very similar to mine - in the "Fresh Food Shelves" section of the above site, the sensor is diagram number 242. In the "Freezer Section", the sensors are diagram number 241 and 243.

Jul 28, 2009 | GE Refrigerators

1 Answer

My refridge isnt cold enough but my freezer isthe fan sounds like its running and the condenser is on. also the fan/condenser are never turning off by them self


This has happened in my GE side-by-side (model GSS20IEMDWW). For me, the problem was caused by a faulty temp sensor in the fresh food side. That sensor never signalled the computer that the temp in the fresh food side was cool enough, so the compressor ran constantly.

Since the compressor was running constantly, the evaporator coils (back wall of the freezer compartment) eventually iced over (took about a week). Since the fan that draws air over the evaporator coils could no longer move any air (due to the icing), the temperature in the fresh food side continued to climb. (The fresh food side is chilled through a hole with a motorized door at the top of the dividing wall, so if no air is moving in the freezer compartment, temps in the fresh food compartment climb.)

I replaced the temp sensor in the fresh food side and solved the problem for a while. About six months later I had the same problem again, so I replaced both temp sensors in the freezer compartment - which solved the problem again. (My fridge is about seven years old.)

If you are going to replace any of the temp sensors, replace them all under the principle of "if one failed, the rest will soon fail too".

Use a website like www.partselect.com to look up a parts diagram for your fridge and see if you can order just the temp sensors. Other websites (www.repairclinic.com and www.appliancepartsworldwide.com) may also be helpful. I have no affiliation with any of the sites I just mentioned - I'm just posting them as resources.

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1 Answer

Ge side by side profile. freezer works fine, all


Hi!

First of all you need to clean the coils (condenser coils under the unit or evaporator coils inside the freezer). The coils inside could be iced over because of failure of defrost system. Now check that the condenser fan under the fridge is working properly. Check that the fan in the freezer work which pulls cold air from the coils inside freezer and blows it to the fridge side. Are the temperature control knobs in the fridge adjusted correctly? It actually just opens a vent to let more or less cold air in from the freezer. It takes a while for the ice to build up in the freezer enough to affect the cooling.

My first guess would be the defrost timer. You can manually turn it to engage the defrost cycle and observe whether or not the defrost heaters come on. Now use a hair dryer to speed up melting the ice when there is lots of ice buildup. Most timers are 24 hour timers. It will turn the defroster on every 6 or maybe 12 hours depending on the model.

Before testing the defrost heater, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard.

The defrost heater is usually located at the back of a side by side freezer or under the floor of a top freezer. It will be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, icemaker and the inside rear or bottom panel of the freezer.

The heater is connected by two wires. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.

Please do rate this solution as FixYa and revert for further assistance.

Thanks
Rylee

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If the frozen side is colder than normal and some extra frost is forming where the fan blows,and there is ice in the bottom of freezer compartment, and the cool side is not cool enough, their is a good possability the defrosting unit is not removing all the frost and ice . the defrosting unit has a timer (usually near thermostat) that turns off the cooling fan and compressor and turns on a small heater around the evaporator ( about 20 minutes every 2 days) (evaporaror is cold heat exchanger coil inside the back wall behind a cover near the recirculating fan0, the fan circulates air to both compartments through two small openings, if these openeing are closed by ice buildup cool air can not circulate to the cool side. cure 1. remove all food and leave fridge off for 24 hours with doors open (take precautions to ensure children can't get locked in side and suffocate, if you get a qt of water in bottom of unit (may leak on floor) ice buildup that the defrost heater can not remove melted and was your problem . turn frig on replace food on unit. cure 2. turn frig off, remove food from both sides, remove shelves that block access to evaporator, remove cover over evaporator if you see the evaporator coils free of ice look at openings (2) to other side, one may be blocked with ice the other with frost, carefully melt ice with hair dryer.
If the evaporator coil is solid ice heater or timer or fan has failed. good luck

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3 Answers

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It sounds like cold air from the freezer isn't making it to the fridge compartment. This can be cause by a several things. The damper that lets air into the fresh food side is stuck in "closed" position, the temp sensor (t-stat) isn't working properly, the evaporator fan (in the freezer comp above the coils) isn't working to blow air up to the fresh food section. In some situations, the defrost cycle for the freezer section isn't working and the coils have frozen into a block of ice and air can't flow over them properly so you get not cold air to the fresh food section but the freezer still stays cold due to the block of ice.

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