Question about Dell Inspiron 1501 Notebook

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1992 honda The pressure switch is a dual pressure switch. I have not seen any kind of adjustment screw but i ll look. I knew the vehicle was r12 originally but the 134a fittings on the lines is what got me and no conversation sticker. from my understanding the parts i converted over on the car are r12 and 134a combatable. I dont know. If thats true then i thought about emptying the system, blowing it all out, pull a vacuum on itand refill it with r12 and see if it returns closer to normal. But i don't know for sure if i should. I figured the door ajar lights weren't tied into this problem, but with foreign engineering, you never know. I will try crimping the high end hose also. I'm going to try everything i possibly can before i replace the compressor or take it to someone. and i have no idea why the dell computer **** is on all these messages.

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  • yadayada
    yadayada May 11, 2010

    Yes many systems allow the AC cycling switch to be adjusted, there is a screw under the connector, but not all have this feature, also you need to know if the system charge is correct, what are the high and low side reading with the engine held at 1500 RPM and the system stable for at least 5 minutes?, R134 is denser than R12, the charger amount is less than the amount the manufacturer lists for R12, about .9 lbs of R134 to 1 LB of R12 is the ratio I think but look it up to be sure.

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You posted this under the laptop category. Try reposting under automotive, you'll reach more experts in the automotive Field, and you'll get a better response. I have some knowledge to air conditioning systems. I don't have enough technical knowledge to tell you why, but the way I understand it is that if the system has been converted to 134 the 12 will not work due to the refrigerant composition, but you can try. If you're just not getting the cold air you want, you might look into the accumulator. If it's not working correctly or partially plugged this could be your problem. If my suggestions don't flip the bill, then try posting in the automotive section.

Posted on Aug 01, 2008

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Disclaimer: I’m a hobbyist, not a Toshiba-certified service tech, so the procedure I’m about to detail is based on the Toshiba maintenance manual for A40 Series laptops—there may be a shortcut method to accomplishing all this (though I’ve not found one).

Before you start, download a copy of the Toshiba maintenance manual for A40 Series laptops (http://tim.id.au/laptops/toshiba/satellite%20a40.pdf)—thanks for that link, parrotheadpc!

You might as well also order your replacement battery (Real Time Clock (RTC) Battery, Nickel Metal Hydride, DC3.0V 17mAh, Toshiba #P71035017110). The best deal I could find online in Oct 09 was at www.sparepartswarehouse.com for $25 (including shipping; FYI, they automatically ship 2-day air). I called every computer repair store (and Radio Shack) in our area, but couldn’t find anyone who carried this battery in stock.

Tools & supplies you’ll need:
  • Precision screwdriver set—at a minimum, you’ll need a #0 Phillips head driver. Don’t try to use a #1 or larger screwdriver—you’ll only end up stripping a screw head (or two or three or ten) or at some point. If you don’t already have a set (they’re really useful for working on laptops), Sears has them for less than $15 (<$10 on sale). If you have a Harbor Freight Tools store in your area, you can also find a cheap set there.
  • Pair of small needle-nose pliers (the precision screwdriver set at Sears includes one); I really don’t think that you’ll be happy with standard-size needle-nose pliers.
  • A “micro” screw extractor (needed if you find that any screws are stripped; this could happen during original assembly or prior service work). I have the Craftsman screw extractor set (model 52157), available from Sears; the “M3” size extractor is just right for removing small case screws. This set’s not cheap (unless you get it on sale), so you may want to look for a less expense set that has the M3 size in it.
  • Power drill w/ adjustable chuck (for using the screw extractor). I used a full-sized cordless VSR drill, but if you have a VSR rotary tool with a chuck, that would be a lot easier to handle.
  • Flashlight or good work light.
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A word on “screw management”: You’re going to be removing a whole boatload of screws to separate the top half of the laptop shell from the bottom half—keeping track of the many screws (in different sizes) is a real pain. My way of handling this is to take a small piece of Scotch tape, fold over one end about 1/8” to make a tab (for later easy removal), and to use it to secure each screw in place as I remove it (with some exceptions, which I’ll mention as we go). For case screws that are inset in wells, a piece of tape over the top of the screw well will keep it in place. For exposed screws, you can usually loosely tape a screw in place after it’s been screwed out—just don’t push it back into the hole’s threads, as that will defeat the purpose of removing the screw. As you go through the procedure, if you find that the parts you’re trying to separate seem stuck together, you may have a screw that dropped back into place—just look for the likely screw, pull up the tape, screw it back out again, then put the tape back in place.

About stripped screw heads: You can hope that you won’t encounter any of these, but with over two dozen screws to remove, your chances are at least fair of having at least one stripped screw head—I recommend being prepared.

About cleaning out your laptop: While you've got it opened up, this is a good time to give it a blow-out with a can of compressed air--you may be surprised where you'll find clumps of dust hiding!

Here’s the procedure (citing the relevant pages of the Toshiba maintenance manual):

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  6. Remove the wireless LAN board cover and carefully disconnect the wireless LAN antenna leads (p. 4-28). I used the needle-nose pliers to disconnect the antenna leads from their mounting posts on the wireless LAN board—just pull straight up (gently!). Note that the black antenna lead connects to the post nearest the screen hinge, while the white lead connects to the post nearest the wrist rest. You do not need to remove the wireless LAN board itself, so just skip those steps.
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  8. Remove the display assembly (p. 4-34). This is where you’ll go bugnuts keeping track of the screws if you’re not using my Scotch tape method! Note that by “display assembly,” we’re talking about the LCD screen assembly and the upper half of the laptop shell.
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    Note 3: The display assembly has plastic "snaps" in addition to screws, so you may need to do a little gentle levering to remove it.
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You should now be able to boot up the laptop (after setting the clock, of course)—unless, like the one I’m working on, there are other problems to fix…

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1 Answer

92 honda


35 PSI is not low enough on the low side, it should be 30 PSI, is the pressure cycling switch adjustable?? if so try turning the screw under the connector out half a turn to start and then recheck, and so on, or just replace it, if you can't the PSI down to 30 then the compressor is starting to wear out., the only other explanation is the air bleend door is warped are otherwise not closed all the way, this allows heat from the heater core to mix with the cold air from the AC evaporator core, take a pair of vise grips and crip off the hot coolant supply line to the heater core under the hood, if the AC gets really cold then that is the problem not the compressor, !992 is to early for your Honda to have a R134 system, so it was converted, An expansion valve is the same as a fixed orfice. As far as the door ajar and trunk warnig light that are on this is another isssue, and by no means related to the AC concern.

Jul 31, 2008 | Dell Inspiron 1501 Notebook

1 Answer

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Well, you should be logged on as Administartor, or your profile should have admin rights to install software on this machine...

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