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I'm sorry to hear that you are having trouble with your Motorguide Varimax Great White trolling motor. Here is a diagram of the upper control housing for the 2009 model that may be helpful:
Control housing assembly
Tilt tube assembly
Steering shaft assembly
Tension spring
Speed control knob
Directional indicator
Steering handle assembly
Regarding the issue with the motor only running in reverse, it is possible that there is a problem with the control housing assembly or the wiring connections to the motor. You may want to inspect the wiring and connections for any signs of damage or corrosion. If you are unable to identify the issue or make the necessary repairs, you may want to consider taking the trolling motor to a Motorguide service center for professional diagnosis and repair.
Do you mean you can hear the motor turn but the propellor doesn't turn?
Then check the break-pin of the propellor. It's a security device that will break when the propellor hits an object in the water...
The first thing to check,(After making SURE the electricity is disconnected to the trolling-motor) remove the propeller and see if the shear-pin (Usually made of brass) in in place and not sheared/broken.
If it is, your local marine shop should be able to provide a new one. I always carry spares. If the pin is OK, the windings may have an electrical fault that would require a factory-repair.
The switc his designed for only two batteries. You could parallel the two trolling motor batteries and put their leads under one terminal on the switch, but any time the switch was in that position, both batteries would be feeding the trolling motor load at the same time.
In any case, always connect the starting motor to it's own terminal. You want to keep that battery seperated from the trolling motor load so that you do not run down your starting battery.
It very likely has a power transistor to vary the current to the motor. I am guessing that transistor has a collector to emitter short. That can be verified with a common ohm meter on a low ohms scale.
not enough info. I went the the min kota website, they show four maxxum 80's at different voltages.is it a 12v 24v or larger? without a year model I'll have no reference to what wiring schematic Is the fuse connected inline with the trolling motor? what size amp fuse are you burning up? well I can give you some troubleshooting tips. tools to buy (1) amp gauge. if you are unfamilier with amp gauges make sure you get instruction book with gauge or you could burn yourself. Toubleshooting(1) Remove cover off minn kota trolling motor. black cover ontop of unit were the foot control wires go into.turn over foot control remove cover (2) check for corrosion. any exposed terminals should be cleaned.(3) go to your batteries and clean all connections. make sure the batteries are fully charged.(4) take amp gauge and test positive wire for amp draw as you tun on trollling motor and run it through all speeds. if batteries are in the rear away from trolling motor get a 2nd person to control trolling motor. if the trolling motor is more than a 12v system you will have more than one positive lead to test.GOAL. What your trying to find out is how many amps the trolling motor is really pulling. and at what speeds. under a load in the water and out of the water.how many more amps than the fuse raiting? newer trolling motors come with inline breakers not fuses so I'm guessing your using 30 amp fuses. again without more info i can only guess.
I have one too. Although it could be the mother board - if it runs its the potentiometer. You can get one from Iboats or Mie Reel Repair the number is AP16802. If its the mother board they are switching to digital. I havent had to go there yet. Tight lines to ya. From South Texas Riviera.
To get 36 volts, number batteries 1 thru 3. connect pos 2 to neg 1, connect pos 3 to neg 2, connect pos 1 to trolling motor controller and neg 3 to ground on trolling motor. This is only a solution for 3 battery system. For 4 battery system, connect 4 to 3 pos to pos and neg to neg. [email protected]
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