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Disattatched pieces there is a copper-ish cord attatched to the left of the actual typing mechanism, and it has some how become disattatched during typing, causing the letters to all be typed over eachother. it came loose around the rotating wheels that it was threaded around and im not sure how to reattatch the cord, or if there is an additional problem.

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Selectric? If so, the rotate tape came off. Has to be done by a technician.

Posted on Jul 31, 2008

  • Charles Theile
    Charles Theile Jul 31, 2008

    Sorry, if it's a tan cord it's the carrier cable. It still has to be done by a tech.

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Probably not worth the cost of parts to repair.
Pick up a 2nd hand one off ebay.

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My left headphone stopped working after a year or so. How can i fix this?


The copper wires inside the cable have broken. Since you don't know where the break occurred all you can do is to open the left headphone, remove the speaker, cut a piece of the cord and resolder it to the speaker. Test it, if it's fixed just put the headphone back together. If not, cut another piece. If you must cut more than a third of the cable to get it working then it's dead, just buy a new pair.

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It sounds like you actually have 2 wires closely wrapped together. They are very fine and you have to make sure that you have separated all of the wires from each other. Generally you will have a red wire and a copper colored wire for the right side and blue (or green) and copper colored for the left side. you need to make sure that none of these little wires are still mixed with each other, otherwise you have a dead short and the speaker will not work. The insulation is very thin so there is no need to strip it, the insulation will burn off when the solder is applied

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The red exclamation mark and the green setup light remain on.


I experienced the same problem several years ago and tried the suggestion provided below. It worked and it is still working today.

Here are instructions posted by John Phillips on "FixYourOwnComputer.com:"
Steps I took - and it worked beautifully - display problem solved !!

1. Ease off the plastic facia that covers the control buttons - (no screws - it just clips on)
2. Remove the cross head screw that is seen to the bottom left of the display unit.
3. Flip display unit open - remove the cross head screw that holds the dark plastic support clip that is behind the unit and top right ish!!
4. Remove the display unit - unscrew the 4 small cross head screws that hold the display assembly together - NOTE THAT THE CONNECTING RIBBON RUNS THROUGH THE HOLE - I didn't make a note at first, and it took me ages to work out where it went when trying to re-assemble it !!
5. Mark the connecting ribbon so that you know which way up it should be, then carefully pull it away from the black connecting block - Re-assemble merely by pushing it carefully back into place.
6. On the circuit board you will see a large (ish) black Integrated Circuit - using a magnifying glass you will see a tiny soldered fuse marked F1 just to one end of this Integrated Circuit.
7. Using a single strand of clean copper wire ( a single strand taken from a multi strand piece of speaker wire is ideal) carefully solder it across the two terminals
8. Having a soldering tip small enough is vital if you are to attempt this - an ordinary tip is TOO BIG. I used a piece of copper earth wire (obtained from ordinary "Twin and Earth" electricians household mains wiring cable) I then wound it around my soldering tip and filled it down to a fine point.
9. Re-assemble - switch on - and if you have been careful and succeeded in this feat of micro soldering - you should have a realistic chance of having a fully functioning display once again.

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

Tdk mp100 headphone jack


Each of the rubber covered cords running to each ear piece has two fine strand wire bundles inside. The right ear piece has a red colored strand and a copper colored strand. The left ear piece has a green colored strand and a copper colored strand. The wires are coated with an insulation lacquer. The lacquer burns off when you heat the wire for soldering.

Repair item: 3.5 mm stereo headphone jack, shrink tubing

Plan for strain relief:. These headphone wires can't take any tension at all. You need to crimp the black cords to the headphone jack somehow.

Slide strain relief and headphone jack housing over the over the rubber covered headphone cord.

  • You need to plan a way to relieve the pulling stress on the solder joints where the two headphone cords enter your replacement headphone jack.
  • Try shrink tubing if you have it.
  • If you have some thermal shrink tubing, slide a piece over the headphone cord end before stripping the wires.
  • Slide the headphone jack casing over the headphone cord also.
Strip each headphone cord 5/8" using the 18 gage setting of your wire stripper..

Hold each headphone cord in a "third hand" soldering assist tool and tease the green, red and copper bundles apart..I wore a 10x Magnavisor and I used a sewing needle and a bright light.

Twist the copper colored strands from both headphone cords together. They are the common ground wires. The copper colored bundle will attach to the headphone jack ground.

Apply a dab of solder to the end of each of the three bundles of wire. You will see and smell the insulating lacquer as it burns off. Keep most of the wire bundle cool.

Position the two strand headphone cord and the 3.5 mm headphone jack in the third hand soldering stand.
  • Plan where you can crimp the headphone cord. Crimp it when ready.
  • The green == left channel wire goes to the tip of the 3.5mm jack.
  • The red==right channel wire goes to the middle of the 3.5 mm jack
  • The copper colored wires go to the ground of the jack..
  • Measure resistance, 31 ohms per earpiece.
  • Screw the jack cover on and finish the strain relief craftsmanship.



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