Question about Carrier Air Conditioners
The most common failure for this problem is either the start/run capacitor or the fan motor. IF YOU ARE NOT experienced with electricity then I would strongly suggest hiring a technician. The volts are 220 with a potential of 50 amps in a common residential unit.
If you are knowledgeable in this area then make sure the motor has volts to it. If it does have volts and does not spin, it is bad. You can sometimes tell by feeling the motor it will probably be very hot. The compressor will eventually shut itself off when it over heats. It usually will restart after it cools down(sometimes many hours). The motor and capacitor are pretty generic and can be matched up at a local Grainger store or whatever Retail, specialty store that you have in your area.
I hope this helps:)
Posted on Jun 25, 2008
Check air temp out vent should be approx 20 degrees colder than room temp if it is your unit is too small for the amount of space you are cooling.Rule of thumb 1 ton(12,000btu's) for every 400 sq ft of uninsulated space
Posted on Jun 03, 2009
Ours was worse than yours. It was not frozen up, but it did need freon. The tech told us that the compressor coil (the unit in the attic) was leaking freon and that the unit would have to be replaced within a year, but adding freon dropped the temperature inside from the mid-80s to the mid-70s (on 100 degree days). It might go lower, but we don't set the thermostats below 76. We paid $80 for the service call plus another $197 for 3 lbs of freon (for our 4-ton unit). Total cost: $274. The quote to replace the system with a new 14 SEER unit is $7,000 -- but this will get us through the summer. Oh, be sure to replace your filters monthly and keep your condensor fins clean. Spray them down with a hose (even while the unit is running), make sure there are no leaves or other trash blocking them, and make sure you have 2 feet of clearance around the condensor. Putting plants or other objects right up against it will impede its operation. Good luck!
Posted on Jul 04, 2009
there are 3 drain holes in the primary pan right underneath the evaporator that need to be clean with a pipe cleaner or a wire of somekind and there is also a secondary drain behind it that will work only if the unit is 100% level. To access the primary drain pan you have to take all the screws of the back cover 5 on each side and 3 in the center above the electric cord and behind the air filter and only then will you be able to see these very small holes. Use a flashlight to make sure. Have fun!Reply
Posted on Jul 07, 2010
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