I have a Kenmore side-by-side model number 106.53669300 with an automatic ice maker. The problem is the ice maker is not working. I have 120 volts at the receptacle, but only 34 volts at the harness for...
HI. These symptoms seem to point to a failed thermostat. During this type of failure, the ice maker will not be able to regulate the freezing of the ice. It may not be able to preform a complete cycle, as well. The successful jumping indicates that the module is functional, but the regulatory device is not. This can also be a starter switch issue, also. This will be the On/Off switch or arm lever. To isolate the issue, simply test the thermostat. Use the procedure below to achieve this.
The thermostat is located near the bottom of the support box. The thermostat is connected by two or three wires. Label the wire placement before disconnecting them. Remove the thermostat by loosening the clamp, by pushing back the retainer clips, or by removing the retaining screws.
You will need to test the thermostat for continuity using a multimeter set to the ohms setting X1. Start by testing the thermostat when it has come up to room temperature.(Usually after about 10 minutes after you have removed it from the freezer).
If the thermostat has two wires touch one probe to each wire. You should get a reading of infinity. Chill the thermostat in the freezer
for about twenty minutes and retest. This time you should get a reading of zero (continuity).
If the thermostat has three wires, number them 1, 2 and 3. Test combination's 1 & 2, 1 & 3 and 2 & 3 and write down the results. Two of the combination's should yield a reading of infinity and one should yield a reading of zero. Now chill the thermostat in the freezer for about twenty minutes and retest. The combination that had a zero reading before, should now have a reading of infinity. One of the two other combination's should now yield a zero reading.
If the thermostat fails this test, it should be replaced. If the thermostat passes the test, move on to the on/off switch arm and circuit inspection procedure.
Let's start by inspecting the arm. The arm extends away from the ice maker above the ice cube bin. During each ice making procedure, the arm rises up and then drops back down after the new ice is dumped into the ice cube bin. As ice accumulates in the bin it prevents the arm from dropping back down. When the arm is high enough, the ice maker shuts off and no more ice is made until the ice level in the bin drops. The arm is supported at one or both ends. One end extends into the back of the front support. If it is not securely in place, it could cause the ice maker to malfunction. Make sure that the arm is securely in place. I would also advise to inspect the clearance of the arm. make sure that nothing is blocking the arms swing pattern. If this arm is in the on position, and dose not make ice, this can indicate that the entire module is suspect. This will require total replacement of the ice maker unit.
Next, will will move to the final inspection sector. This will be the actual on/off switch circuit. In order to test the on/off switch circuit, you will need to remove the entire ice maker unit. The shutoff switch is located near the shutoff arm. Remove the switch by removing the two screws that hold it in place. The switch is connected by three wires. Label the wire placement on the switch before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the switch with slip-on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the switch terminals. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.
Test the switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch a probe to the side terminal. Touch the other probe to one of the two other terminals. The reading should be either infinity or zero. With the probes still in place, depress the switch. You should now get the opposite reading. Keep the first probe on the side terminal and move the other probe to the second terminal. The test results should be the opposite of the first terminal. If you had a reading of zero on the first terminal, when the switch was depressed, you should get a reading of infinity on this terminal. If the switch fails either test, it should be replaced.
Jan 11, 2010 |