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If you visually confirm a spark and no ignition, can you light it manually to confirm gas valve is working? If unable to light manually, very likely a gas valve failure. Just to be sure, check the gas valve to make sure someone else did not shut it off and other gas appliances are functioning. If you failed to pay your gas bill, the service might be shut off at the meter.
Date: 8/2/2010
I have a GE XL44 oven. It's about ten years old. Oven would not turn on, so I replaced the igniter. The igniter has to light to "tell" the gas to come on. The part was $80 here in Oklahoma and it was super simple fix.
Pull the oven out of it's place and unplug. You can shut off the gas if your buidler placed a shut off valve.
1. The oven door pulls off without tools (I wish I knew this when I cleaned the oven last year) just open the door about three inches and pull toward your chin.
2. Remove the lower storage drawer.
3. Then remove the racks.
4. Remove oven floor. The oven floor comes off with two screws in back, then lift it about an inch from the rear and you can pull the front up, clearing the lip. This is a good time to clean the ten year old food off the oven floor.
5. You will see the aluminum burner. The lower ignighter is attached to the burner. The screws to the ignighter are at an angle, dont try to remove them with out taking the burner out. To remove the lower burner, get on your side and look way in the back of the lower drawer area. Remove the two screws at the very back where the oven drawer goes. You will also unplug the two (2) wires and the then the whole burner will lift up and come out, then you can remove the ignighter screws. Take the ignighter off and take it to a appliance repair store and they will sell you a new igniter. You can look on-line as well.
The new part does not have the connectors like the original, Just cut the old wires in half and pig tail them to the new part. The new part will come with ceramic wire nuts. This whole install takes about an hour, and will save you a service call. It can seem like a hard fix, but once you dig into it, it's pretty easy. Everything goes back together in reverse. This would be a good time to change the light bulb while you are at it.
These are the same type of ignighters that are on everything these days, hot water heaters, furnaces and they are the most likely to go out since they are used quite a bit.
Well the system continuously cycles all throughout the drying process. The flame detect simply shuts down the igniter to allow gas to escape onto the screaming hot igniter. You must have air restriction such as improper ventilation or faulty sensor. Check these things using this Service Manual FYI: The coils in the gas assembly as fine as frogs hairs and tend to fail on a frequent basis.
The way it works is the igniter gets voltage signal from the control and will start to glow. The gas valve for the burner and the igniter are wired on the same circuit. When the igniter starts to glow it takes all the voltage from the circuit. As the igniter increases in temp the resistence changes and the voltage starts to travel to the gas valve. Once the gas valve registers 3 to 4 volts it will open allowing gas to the burner for ignition. The igniter needs to reach approx 2200 degrees for this to happen. So it could be the igniter or the gas valve. The igniter should test approx 500 to 700 ohms with a ohm meter. The gas valve could also be sticking. If the igniter is glowing bright and you tap the gas valve with a wrench and it comes on then the gas valve is sticking and needs replacement(as long as the igniter tests good)...Hope that helps.
In most cases it is the ignitor itself. Eledtricity goes thru the ignitor and as it gets hot it allows more electricity thru to the gas coils, allowing them to open and let the gas go thru. The ignitors do get weak and will glow but that is all. Not enough electricity can get to the gas valve solenoids and let gas thru. Find a local parts dealer and give them your make and model # to order the part.
the government mandated that gas appliances start using electronic ignighters because pilot lights would keep blowing gas even after they blew out now the way they work is calibrated on how much amps the glow bar draws the rest of the amps go to the safety valve to open it when the glow bar is drawing enough amps to be hot enough to ignite the gas now what this means is even though the glow bar glows it can still not be hot enough to ig night the gas so the safety valves don't get the right amps to the solenoids to open so you could have a weak ignighter or bad solenoids on the safety valves now i would lean toward the solenoids but i would buy both and first replace the solenoids then the ignighter if the solenoids work take the ignighter back
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