Question about Refrigerators
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
take back panel off freezer and check for ice build up which will block air flow and temps will rise. melt off carefully with a hairdryer.make sure drain is also clear and use hot water and patience if blocked with ice. if fault re-occurs, you have a fault with defrost system
Posted on Apr 24, 2007
the problem is there is a build up of ice insid of the freezer .
What you need to do is take out all your draws in the freezer and you will see a plastic backing held on with about 8 screws . undo all the screws and the back should come aay and you will see all the ice built up . just use a hair drier to melt the ice and that should cure your problem.
Posted on Dec 10, 2007
The small cooling fan in the freezer compartment that sends chilled air to the food side is defective and needs replacement. Sometimes that are only frozen stuck.
When you receive advice from this website you have to understand that without the item in front of us, we are only able to provide "a best guess" as to what the problem might be based on you description of the defect. If you haven't described a clear and precise description of the defect you decrease the chances of an accurate reply. Thank you.
Posted on Apr 29, 2009
Hello there. Let me see if I can assist you.
A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.
Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:
Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
Posted on May 27, 2009
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