The condenser fan motor stops working after several hours of operation, the ice production drops off and excessive heat is generated. The manual indicates the resistance on the motor should be between 265 and 285 ohmns. This one shows 165 ohmns. I'm assuming the motor is failing and once it heats up the motor stops working?

Sometimes the door between the freezer and refrigerator ices up making the air flow stop or slow significantly. Difficult, but unload both parts and let it sit turned off for several hours or overnight with the doors open (Full defrost) . Plug back in - hopefully this works.

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.

This appears to be a Whirlpool side by side unit. Commercial Code 858618353010 / Model S21S4D. If I got the brand incorrect please respond with your brand name.
I do not know your geographic location. I am assuming you are outside of the US.

There are a couple of troubleshooting links I will post here. Keep in mind that they are for US units but the only difference will be the operating voltage:
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=12&newsdesk_id=34 This is for the BASIC ice maker without optics.

And Job Aid R-92 (With optics)
http://adcxns1.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/8527f904cc8ea8cd85256b5800672333/$FILE/4322658A.pdf
Note there are 2 different optics for these. Pre and post 2002. You will have to determine which one you have. The troubleshooting steps require that you TAPE the door / light switch in the depressed position. Ensure you read all of the set up steps.

Often ice makers stop cycling because the ice maker thermostat never reaches 14 - 16 Deg. F due to a problem with automatic defrosting. Ice builds up on the evaporator coils and air-flow in the freezer gets restricted. It will still freeze but won't make ice until the ice build up is excessive.

If you think you may have an automatic defrosting problem do a MANUAL defrost with an external fan by turning the unit off, removing the freezer contents and directing an external fan into the freezer compartment for just over 2 hours. (water mess so be ready)
While the fan is melting the ice in the freezer compartment... open the lower rear of the unit by removing the fiberboard cover and cleaning the condenser coils, condenser fan, the drip pan and the ver end of the compartment drain tube that terminates in the drip pan. Reinstall rear cover when complete.
After the 2 hours clean up the mess and return the unit to normal service. The unit should start making ice within 8 hours. It will operate normally for 2 days and then if the automatic defrost problem exists... ICEMAKER and freezer performance will degrade after 2 - 3 days.

Hopefully you have enough information now to troubleshoot your icemaker issue.
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.

Often when ice-makers stop working the real problem is that the freezer is not cold enough (It must be 14-16F for the icemaker thermostat to cycle) Check for signs of ice or substantial frost in the back of the unit / evaporator coil area. If you have ice / frost in this area you should do a manual defrost by unplugging the unit and directing an external fan into the freezer compartment for about 2 hours while it makes a water mess that will need to be tended too. Once the 2 hour thawing is complete wipe up the excess water and return the unit to normal service. If the problem was caused by excess ice it will operate normall for 2 - 3 days before ice production slows or stops totally. Should the manual defrosting correct the icemaker problem you most likely have and automatic defrost problem in the form of a problem with one of these 3 components:
1. Defrost control
2. Defrost heating element
3. Defrost thermostat

Having said all of that... You can use this manual to check out your icemaker:
http://adcxns1.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/8527f904cc8ea8cd85256b5800672333/$FILE/4322658A.pdf

Make sure to test the coils on the inlet water valve for continuity. If one of the coils is open *** must be replaced. The inlet water valve is NOT repairable.

Your water valve can be found here:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/Appliance-Parts/whirlpool-water-inlet-valve-item-number-ap4080917.aspx

Here is another link on how to test out the icemaker:
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=12&newsdesk_id=34

The ice-maker thermostat must be at or belw 16 F for the above tests to work.
NOTE the freezer door LIGHT switch must be taped down also.

Before you get too deep into troubleshooting checkout the freezer door light switch first. If the switch is bad the freezer compartment light will not work and the ice-maker also will not work.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

When an icemaker slows production, the problem is not the icemaker at all but the temps in the freezer warming up because of an airflow problem either in the freezer compartment evaporator coils or underneath the unit that being the condenser coils. (Fan not working or lint blockage)
Airflow problems in the freezer compartment are caused by the fan or the automatic defrost system not functioning properly so yu end up with an ice block / lots of frost in the freezer compartment on the back wall of the compartment.

Check for ice or large amounts of frost in the freezer compartment. If you note ice / excessive frost, unplug the unit, empty the freezer compartment and do a manual defrost by directing an external fan into the compartment for just over 2 hours. This will ensure the evaporator coils and the freezer compartment drain have thawed. While the manual defrost is in progress remove the rear fiberboard cover from the compressor access and check / clean the condensor coils and fan area.
After 2 hours clean up the excess water.. reassemble the rear cover and return the unit to NORMAL service. It should start making lots of ice in 4 to 6 hours. Here is the kicker... if there is an auomatic defrosting problem your icemaker will after 2 - 3 days again slow ice producion and ice will build up in the evaporator area. You will have to keep repeating the manual defrosting process every 3 to 4 days until the automatic defrost system is repaired.

There are 3 main components of the Automatic defrost system:
1. Defrost control
2. Defrost heater
3. Defrost thermostat or depending on type thermistor

Most of the time the problem is either the defrost control or the heater that fails and the unit stops defrosting.

Your parts can be found here:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/LG-Parts/Refrigerator-Parts/Model-LSC26905TT/3204/0165000

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly

First off check the freezer door switch for operation. Depress the plunger and make sure the light goes off when the door switch plunger is depressed. Light stays on = bad door switch / no ice production as the door switch provides power to the ice-maker when the door is closed.
Additionally in your case make sure that the evaporator fan is running at full speed. A slow running evaporator fan will cause the freezer compartment cooling to suffer.

Another thing that can cause the freezer temps to start rising is dirty condenser coils in the bottom of the unit. Make sure that the coils are free of lint and that the condenser fan is running at full speed. Usually when there is a problem with the condenser coil air-flow the cabinet of the unit will be VERY warm to the touch on the front in the door seal area. It is supposed to be warm.... just not VERY warm.

Here is a link to the steps on how to troubleshoot an ice-maker.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=12&newsdesk_id=34

Let me just add that many ice-maker related problems are due to the freezer temp rising above 16 deg F. The freezer starts warming up due to ice build up on the evaporator coils and then the internal air-flow is blocked by the ice build up causing the temps to rise. Look closely at the back of the unit for any signs of ice build up.
If you see ice build up......
1. Unplug the unit
2. Remove the freezer contents
3. Place a fan directing air into the freezer for just over 2 hours. (Water mess!)
4. Clean up the excess water and restart the unit. (Add freezer content)
5. After 8 - 10 hours check for NORMAL ice production.

If after doing the above you have ice NORMAL production then most likely you have an automatic defrosting problem.

If it still does not make ice, the steps in the link above will isolate what has failed in the ice-maker.

Before testing the ice-maker using the steps in the link.. I recommend you peform a manual defrost with a fan. If 8 - 10 hours after the manual defrrost you do not have ice production,, use the link and troubleshoot the ice maker.

Here is a 2nd link for ice-maker troubleshooting that includes testing the optical system of the ice-maker:
http://adcxns1.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/8527f904cc8ea8cd85256b5800672333/$FILE/4322658A.pdf

Your ice-maker parts and refrigerator can be found here:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5135173&diagram_id=28114824#d28114824

The above link goes directly to the ice-maker but, using the diagrams on the left side of the page it will bring up all other sections also if you click on them.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.

FYI... The door alarm will sound anytime the door is left open for more than 4 minutes.

Per your post... What it means your refrigerator is working normally.

However... there is the possibility of having excess ice build up on the evaporator coils from the door being open all night. If the freezer section starts warming up due to poor airflow you may have to do a manual defrost. You would first notice the lack of ice production or soft ice cream if there were air flow problems due to excess ice on the evaporator coils.

To do a manual defrost all you do is:
1. Unplug the unit
2. Remove freezer contents
3. Use a fan directed at the freezer compartment for just over 2 hours (makes a water mess)
4. Reload the freezer
5. Plug in the refrigerator

Everything should be back to normal in just over 4 hours except ice production that can take up to 8 hours.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Hello,
If fridge repair because it is noisy, turning off and on, or running all the time, it could be a sign the condenser fan motor is going bad. Thankfully, this type of repair is not as complicated as some may think. You can check the condenser fan motor yourself and replace it if necessary.

Tools and Materials Needed:

* Multitester
* Screwdriver
* Needlenose pliers

Step 1 - Disconnect the Power

Turn off the power to the refrigerator to prevent electric shock.

Step 2 - Remove the Condenser Fan Motor

The condenser fan motor is located on the bottom of the fridge, most likely toward the back. Heat from inside the fridge is released into the air here. A panel will probably need to be removed to access the motor. Depending on the screw, a screwdriver or nut driver will be required to remove the panel. Find the condenser fan and motor. You can quickly check the fan's operation by seeing if anything is obstructing its rotation. Manually move the fan blades to see if they spin freely. If they do not, you may need to replace the fan. Continue removing the condenser fan motor by taking out the screws that affix it to the mounting bracket.

Step 3 - Test the Condenser Motor

Your condenser fan motor will most likely have 3 wires attached. Some models have just 2. Note which wires are connected from the fan to the motor. Use needle-nose pliers to remove the wire connectors from the motor. Be careful not to damage the wires. After the connectors are removed, use the multitester to check the resistance or passage of electrical current. Set your multitester to ohms.

If the condenser motor has 3 terminals, only the outside terminals need to be checked. The inside one is a ground terminal. Check the terminals by using the multitester probes, touching one probe to one terminal and the other probe to the other terminal. The reading should fall between 0 and infinity. If you reading falls on either 0 or infinity, then the condenser motor is bad and will need to be replaced.

Step 4 - Replacing the Condenser Motor

Condenser fan motors can be ordered from the refrigerator's manufacturer. Once you receive the new motor, check it with your multimeter the same way as the old motor. This will make sure the new motor is in working condition. Attach the wire connectors to the new motor in the identical locations as the old one. You can refer to the new motor's wiring diagram (most likely included with it) if assistance is needed. Now install the new motor under the fridge. Attach it to the mounting bracket using the same screws as before.

Step 5 - Testing the New Motor and Keeping it Efficient

With the new motor connected and attached, turn the power back on. The unit should operate correctly. If it does not come on, check the wiring. Dust and dirt can plug a condenser and affect the fan's ability to discharge heat. Cleaning them several times a year will help the fridge run efficiently.
Hope this help in solving.take care....

you could have several problems.

Since you mentioned your ice maker not working right - first check to see if your ice maker is hot (be carefull it can burn you if it is hot) - it is possible for an ice maker to hang in the heat cycle of the cycle producing excessive heat in the freezer. If this is the case unplug the ice maker and/ or just replace it.

The refrigerator gets it cold from the freezer so if the freezer is not working right, you'll soon notice it in the refrigerator side.

You can also check to make sure the evaporator fan motor is running(in the freezer) and the condenser motor(at the compressor) as well.

Also check the back panel of the freezer for excessive frost build up.

Can you tell me the model? If its a bi series then it should make ice every 45 min. temps should be 10-15 degrees in bucket. If its a combo then it could take 24 hours to make 1/2 of the bucket.Should be the same temp in your bucket.Make sure you dont have heavy frost in the freezer, Make sure the condenser fan is running and clean.If the temperature in freezer is alot warmer than this and everythng is running then it could be a leak in the system. If its colder than that then set the thermostat to a warmer temperature