Kenmore 3.5 Super Capacity #4810 front load washer
The door latch area has a very loud buzz until you wiggle the door just right. Sometimes it stops but the door never locks. It looks easy to replace, but I'm worried about taking the rubber "bellows" off for fear of not being able to get it back on. I guess that's what you call it. Any thoughts?
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Re: Kenmore 3.5 Super Capacity #4810 front load washer
Easy fix bellows is held on by spring around outer edge remove it roll bellows back 2 screws in lock assembly pull toward opening remove wires spring may require a little patience to reinstall but no big deal did 2 today..be sure to ck door strike also ..the little plastic piece on door frame that goes into lock
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The lock solenoid on the door latch assembly may be hanging up or just noisey. If washer starts and runs then all is ok. If washer wont start, just buzzes, then door latch assembly may have to be changed.
This advice is for Kenmore Elite and Whirlpool Duet model front loading washers. If you experience a problem where the door becomes jammed and will not unlock or open, here's an easy way to gain access inside your washer WITHOUT calling the repairman.
1. Remove the lower panel under the door by loosening the three screws under the bottom edge on the front of the washer. HINT: If you prop up the front feet of the washer with some small blocks of wood, this will make access to the screws much easier. 2. With the screws removed, the lower panel should drop down then come off. If the panel sticks, a light tap on either side will knock it loose. 3. Reach your hand up inside the washer behind the front casing on the right-hand side. This is where the door latch assembly is located. 4. At the bottom of the door latch assembly is a small pull tab. This is the manual release for the door. Pull the tab straight down and the door will come open.
Sometimes these doors will not unlock for whatever reason. If there are no error codes being generated, this could have just been a momentary glitch. If you see "Fdl" "DLE" or "Fdu" error codes, these are usually indications of a failed door latch assembly and will require replacement.
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Yes this is the place, but you have to mop up the water or it would flood the place; clean out the muck from the filter and refit carefully. You have to clean your filter according to usage, the filter does not self clean, no way.
You are referring to a top loader problem.
A front loader is different the following is from the youtube page that has video explaining the possible issues!
Washing machine not spinning? This video provides information on how to troubleshoot a front-load washer that won't spin and the most likely defective parts associated with this problem. These are sorted from most likely to least likely to be the issue.
Commonly replaced washer parts:
Door lock switch
Motor control board
if its the door latch. it would be the magnetic lock switch. it could just need removing and cleaning. you could also try spraying some spray oil in to the catch hole and see if that cleans it. if it does this sometimes and not others it might just be a bit of dirt in there stopping the switch from contacting properly, turn the power off before spraying.
Just in case there is a pull string with a loop, all plastic under the latch, need to pull the toe panel off and reach up inside the right, unplugged of course until you feel the switch. a pull latch is below the switch incase this happens and hats off to all star/ a serial error or a faulty switch is most of what causes this to start.
On newer, and sometimes a little newer, Whirlpool and Kenmore (Kenmore is made by Whirlpool) considers a few things in determing capacity. Most of the inner baskets are the same size, but they also add in agitator action into the mix. A Kenmore with an auger top agitator would have higher capacity than a Kenmore with just a normal agitator, even though it has the same sized drum. So a super capacity washer would have theoretically less CLEANING CAPACITY than a super capacity plus. The agitator action is actually what determines capacity on these models. So, with that in mind, cubic load should be about the same on both units. Sorry that I had to go into "Bill Nye The Washer Guy" mode, but thats about the only way to describe. Let me know if I can confuse you any more haha. Seriously though, if you need further help or info, write back, and will try to get you some other information. Remember, this theory only works on top load "normal people" washers, not the front loaders.