Question about U-Line Refrigerator Ice Maker

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U-Line Model WCM48

Thanks for the input on my question.

Can you provide me with a step-by-step procedure for removal of the fill valve?

Do you know if U-Line (or another company) provides parts for this model? It's a discontinued model and I am not sure how old it is.

Any help is very much appreciated.

Posted by on

  • jlore Aug 08, 2008

    Thank you very much for the information. The icemaker is located at our vacation home and I won't be able to work on it for a couple of weeks. I'll let you know how I make out. Thanks, again.

  • jlore Sep 08, 2008

    I ordered the part and replaced it as you suggested.



    The ice maker is working great.



    Thanks for your help and I will definitely come back to this website for advice in the future.



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Sorry for the delay in responding...

Most models have the valve located at the back of the machine on the lower left hand side(viewed from the front). You may have to remove the entire back cover via the hex head screws to get at it. (some models have the valve located behind the front toe kick panel.)

First follow the waterline to determine the location of the valve within the fridge. If it is at the front then the toekick panel will have to be removed. If there are no visible screws then it is most likely a clip on style. If there is a knob for temperature setting then the knob may have to be pulled off first.
If there is a smaller cardboard panel at the bottom rear of the fridge remove it and you should see the valve. If not then remove the entire back cover by removing the screws along the rear perimeter of the fridge. The panel may stick to the back of the fridge but gently pull and it will remove. The valve should now be seen and can be disconnected.

Be sure to unplug the machine first and turn off the water supply. There will still be some pressure in the waterline so have a towel ready.

The valve itself is available online, I think the correct one is located at: http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SSPartDetail.aspx?PartID=832567&PPStack=1

Just be sure to verify that it is the right one before ordering.

Posted on Aug 05, 2008

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1 Answer

How to adjust water level in ice maker


Hello Tasker;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.

You did not provide a model number which is located on a label on the liner side wall of your refrigerator section, so I do not know what ice maker you have.

Most ice makers do not have a water fill adjustment. If you have a square box cover on the front, then you may have adjustment. On the right hand side there may be a tiny plastic stem with a slot for knife or tiny flat head screw driver. Turn only 1/2 clockwise. Or with difficulty pop off the front cover and you will see an adjustment spring for water fill.

But, I do not think this is your problem.
1.) Your water fill tube my be iced up inside. Using a small screw driver break the ice up in the fill tube.
2.) If this does not solve your problem, then you probable have a bad ice maker solenoid, where either the coil is weak or the spool sticks and does not open all of the way for the fill cycle.
This is easily replaced. It is probably a duel valve assembly where you have to replace the whole assembly.

a.) Locate your model number.
b.) Go into the below website, put in your model number, you will get parts diagrams prices and part numbers.
c.) Go into the internet and search the part number for the valve. You may be able to find a used valve for conservable saving.
d.) Up plug the unit. Turn off the water supply valve.
e.) Remove the back bottom cover.
f.) Disconnect the valve assembly retaining screws that hold the valve assembly to the unit.
g.) Remove the electrical connectors on the valve assembly.
DO NOT GET THEM WET.
h.) Remove the main water supply line to the valve assembly. There will be water in this line.
i.) Remove the plastic tubing to each valve. Push down while holding the small retaining locking ring. When reassembling, push the plastic tubing down, not hold the retaining ring. You should hear a click meaning it is locked in.
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1 Answer

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Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly. If the fill tube at the top rear of the unit is full of ice this is usually caused by the inlet water valve pssing water when it is supposed to be shut off. Here is what you can do to check and see if the inlet water vale is bypassing water when it should be closed.
1. On the back of the unit where the small plastic line connects to the fill tube that gouse from the rear of the cabinet to the ice maker remove the small plastic line. Plate the end of the line in a bucket or large pan for 8 to 10 hours with the ice maker OFF.
2. At the end of the period where you have the removed line in the catch basin / pan or bucket, check for water. If there is water in the catch basin the inlet water valve has failed internally either from age or debris on the diaphram seat.

Since you did not provide a model number, I can not pass you a source for replacement parts or EXACT troubleshooting procedures. However here is a manual that will assist you in trouble shooting:
http://adcxns1.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/8527f904cc8ea8cd85256b5800672333/$FILE/4322658A.pdf

If your ice maker does not have the optical sensors use this link for ice maker troubleshooting:
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=12&newsdesk_id=34

Here are 2 links for replacement parts: (model number is required)
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/

Here is one of 2 types if inlet water valve: (example only as no model number to reference)
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/Appliance-Parts/WHIRLPOOL-Dual-water-inlet-valve-kit-item-number-AP3085178.aspx

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

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Good day,
As long as the freezer is maintaining it's normal temperature then the best method is a step by step procedure to solve your problem.

First step is to take a small paper cup of water and fill the cavity until it is near full. With the ice maker turned on, close freezer door and wait 3 hours to see if it harvests. If not, the ice maker is bad, and must be replaced. If the cubes harvest then.......
Three possibilities.
1. The water supply from the house is not delivering water to the water valve. Shut off the house at the meter, disconnect the line going to the water valve, and with the line pointed into a bucket, have someone turn the valve back on for a 15 second count. The water should come out smartly. If not, the line and it's fittings will have to be replaced.
2. The fill tube from the back of the machine that feeds water into the back of the ice maker is frozen up. You will have to remove the ice maker to visually inspect that tube. If blocked, it needs to be defrosted, but use caution. Too much heat too fast will start to melt plastic and vinyl parts you don't want melted.
If this is the case, then once cleaned out, you will have to change the water valve located in the back bottom rear of the machine because it is leaking during the off cycle.
3. If everything checks O.K. up to this point, you will have to purchase and install a new water valve, and install it.
P.S. Under very rare occasions the electric circuity in the ice maker will fail to send a signal to the water valve. Although rare, it can happen, in which case the best option is to replace the ice maker and water valve.

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Good day,
The water valve is a dual unit. One side for the ice maker the other for the water in the door. The best procedure is to do a step by step procedure. It should get you there. If you get water to the door then you can skip that step.

First step is to take a small paper cup of water and fill the cavity until it is near full. With the ice maker turned on, close freezer door and wait 3 hours to see if it harvests. If not, the ice maker is bad, and must be replaced. If the cubes harvest then.......
Three possibilities.
1. The water supply from the house is not delivering water to the water valve. Shut off the house at the meter, disconnect the line going to the water valve, and with the line pointed into a bucket, have someone turn the valve back on for a 15 second count. The water should come out smartly. If not, the line and it's fittings will have to be replaced.
2. The fill tube from the back of the machine that feeds water into the back of the ice maker is frozen up. You will have to remove the ice maker to visually inspect that tube. If blocked, it needs to be defrosted, but use caution. Too much heat too fast will start to melt plastic and vinyl parts you don't want melted.
If this is the case, then once cleaned out, you will have to change the water valve located in the back bottom rear of the machine because it is leaking during the off cycle.
3. If everything checks O.K. up to this point, you will have to purchase and install a new water valve, and install it.
P.S. Under very rare occasions the electric circuity in the ice maker will fail to send a signal to the water valve. Although rare, it can happen, in which case the best option is to replace the ice maker and water valve.

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If you are getting water from the front then you can skip the step about checking for water to the machine.
However, a step by step procedure should get your ice maker working.

First step is to take a small paper cup of water and fill the cavity until it is near full. With the ice maker turned on, close freezer door and wait 3 hours to see if it harvests. If not, the ice maker is bad, and must be replaced. If the cubes harvest then.......
Three possibilities.
1. The water supply from the house is not delivering water to the water valve. Shut off the house at the meter, disconnect the line going to the water valve, and with the line pointed into a bucket, have someone turn the valve back on for a 15 second count. The water should come out smartly. If not, the line and it's fittings will have to be replaced.
2. The fill tube from the back of the machine that feeds water into the back of the ice maker is frozen up. You will have to remove the ice maker to visually inspect that tube. If blocked, it needs to be defrosted, but use caution. Too much heat too fast will start to melt plastic and vinyl parts you don't want melted.
If this is the case, then once cleaned out, you will have to change the water valve located in the back bottom rear of the machine because it is leaking during the off cycle.
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Three possibilities.
1. The water supply from the house is not delivering water to the water valve. Shut off the house at the meter, disconnect the line going to the water valve, and with the line pointed into a bucket, have someone turn the valve back on for a 15 second count. The water should come out smartly. If not, the line and it's fittings will have to be replaced.
2. The fill tube from the back of the machine that feeds water into the back of the ice maker is frozen up. You will have to remove the ice maker to visually inspect that tube. If blocked, it needs to be defrosted, but use caution. Too much heat too fast will start to melt plastic and vinyl parts you don't want melted.
If this is the case, then once cleaned out, you will have to change the water valve located in the back bottom rear of the machine because it is leaking during the off cycle.
3. If everything checks O.K. up to this point, you will have to purchase and install a new water valve, and install it.
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Good day,
More than one reason for your problem. You'll need to follow a step by step procedure to get there, but it will solve your problem

First step is to take a small paper cup of water and fill the cavity until it is near full. With the ice maker turned on, close freezer door and wait 3 hours to see if it harvests. If not, the ice maker is bad, and must be replaced. If the cubes harvest then.......
Three possibilities.
1. The water supply from the house is not delivering water to the water valve. Shut off the house at the meter, disconnect the line going to the water valve, and with the line pointed into a bucket, have someone turn the valve back on for a 15 second count. The water should come out smartly. If not, the line and it's fittings will have to be replaced.
2. The fill tube from the back of the machine that feeds water into the back of the ice maker is frozen up. You will have to remove the ice maker to visually inspect that tube. If blocked, it needs to be defrosted, but use caution. Too much heat too fast will start to melt plastic and vinyl parts you don't want melted.
If this is the case, then once cleaned out, you will have to change the water valve located in the back bottom rear of the machine because it is leaking during the off cycle.
3. If everything checks O.K. up to this point, you will have to purchase and install a new water valve, and install it.

P.S. Under very rare occasions the electric circuity in the ice maker will fail to send a signal to the water valve. Although rare, it can happen, in which case the best option is to replace the ice maker and water valve.

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You can try to advance your icemaker by removing the white cover on your icemaker and turn the smaller gear counterclockwise to advance the icemaker. When the icemaker starts wait until the ejector blade gets to 10 oclock position this is where it calls for water. The test would be unplug the coil on the valve and put a meter lead on each one. If you see 120 volts then replace the valve. If you dont see it it could be the water switch inside the head of icemaker.

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If it is just dribbling then chances are that there is debris in the fill vale preventing it from closing fully. Since it does not seem to flush out on its own then a new valve will likely solve your problem.

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