Transducer and speed and temp wires have been eaten. The outer rubber and the shield is open exposing the wire . The unit still works sometimes but not reliably. Can I splice this wire somehow. The damage is below the water line in one spot.
Cut the wire and re connect with crimp connectors and then seal withe heat shring tubing and a heat gun (put the tubing in first) or you could solder the ends together and heat shrink tubing over the individual wires. So long as you have a good water tight connection ther should be no adverse affects to your equipment.
a 6ya Expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to an Expert (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
<p>"Everything is better with Bluetooth" is an adage
that was popularized by the television program "The Big Bang Theory. It's
hard to argue with that. Bluetooth is a fast and secure way to transfer digital
information. While it is useful can extend the range a Bluetooth connection,
making your own antenna to make technology more valuable. <br />
<p>1. Pry apart the case with a Bluetooth screwdriver. Remove
the electronics module. <br />
<p>2. Heat the existing antenna cable with a soldering iron and
pull it free from the oscillator. <br />
<p>3. Remove the excess solder the electronics module using a disordering
braid. <br />
<p>4. Remove the outer insulation of the new antenna cable, and
cut the outer shield of the coax to the wire strippers. Add a little solder to
the shield for the more solid. <br />
<p>5. Exposing the central thread of removing the cable from 1
/ 2 inches. Leave a bit of plastic between the wire and shield. <br />
<p>6. Slide the wire through the hole and bend it at right
angles. The shield should be established by the turtle. <br />
<p>7. Protect the solder and pad together. Turn the plate over
the center wire and solder in the hole. Remove any excess wire with wire
cutters. <br />
<p>8. Clip the excess wire stabbing through the hole and insert
the module in the case and assemble the two halves. Use tie-tape, glue or tape
to hold it together when necessary. <br />
<p>9. Insert the module on the subject and put things back. Use
clamps to hold it together. <br />
you can't. The best thing to do is to cut the cable at the head, go to radioshack/online electronics source to pick up the replacement head (shield, prongs, and outer-casing), and re-solder. XLR cable are real easy to build because there are only 3 wires to connect to 3 prongs. A little solder will go a long way. The prongs are numbered, and the cables go as such: red-2, black-3, naked-1. Make sure you feed the bottom shield over the cable before you expose the wires to make it easier. Once your soldering is done, slide the outer metal casing over the prong unit, and screw in the bottom shield to tighten. Really that simple. :D
check fuses. Recheck that all the color codes are connected correctly, it's really easy to make a mistake here. Check the fuses electrically. If mice have eaten wiring in one place, you can bet they have done the same somewhere else so check everywhere including underneath the vehicle and under the hood. Make sure that any wiring which is hidden behind fittings and under carpets is checked.. get a copy of the wiring diagram and use it to recheck wire connections and trace which wires go where and do what including the power supply to the TCM.
Reset the TCM, by disconnecting power for at least an hour.
How old is the stove? The igniter does sometimes go bad. Also you need to check the igniter wires. The igniter works on a grounding principal so if the wires outside shield are cracked or eaten by mice the spark then travels to the path of least resistance and probably sparks under the top. Good Luck
Try to trace all wires and see if the metal part is still intact. Do not turn it on or allow electricity to pass yet! If wire metal intact, get some good quality black electrical tape and carefully tape all the exposed metal. When done, test system.
To prevent problem, use moth balls, fabric softener sheets, or pine sol soaked on cloths to deter mice & rats. If possible, use old- fashion mouse or rat traps with peanut butter to kill intruders to your boat. If you agressively eliminate them, the problem will be solved, but you may have to periodically repeat the trap use.
Satellite Antenna cables are very sensitive. Once the live core expose outside of its shield it will reduce the quality of reception. Live core always should be shielded. Best thing is the changing entire cable from radio to antenna. But if you wish you can try to repair the snapped area by putting isolation material (can be electrical type) but live core (the center wire) should be shielded. You can use aluminum foil as shielding after isolate the live core. Aluminum foil should be contacted the shield of the cable (outer surrounding wire)
You need to go to your local Harbor Freight Tools and pick up a security tool kit for $9.99 so you'll get the bits required to remove the special screws. You need to remove all the screws around the outer edge of rear and then pull the white rubber plugs out of feet and remove the screws from feet. Then the entire cover lifts off of unit. That exposes where the power cord enters the back of unit. You'll see a smaller black wire leaving that area going over to the timer knob. Before the wire gets to the timer knob, there is a sleve covering the wire. If you'll cut the zip tie holding all the wires together, you can slide the sleve (mine is red) backwards toward where the power wire comes into unit. That will expose the inline fuse that is blown. You will need to call Delonghi to order the wire. It is pressure fitted on. You should be able to pull the connectors lose by hand on each end. Simple fix!!