The bolts are super rusted on the exhaust and i cant tell if there just rusted on there or if theyre welded on there from the factory what should i do

Do you mean broken off and stuck inside or broken off and fallen out? Broken off and fallen out in this case is a good thing. Sounds like you mean the exhaust is broken at the manifold but what isn't clear is which piece, the manifold or the exhaust pipe. The manifold is a part of the engine, the exhaust pipe is connected to the manifold via the flange you speak of so if it is broken (coming from the engine as a base point) before the flange you need to change the manifold (less likely - hardly ever breaks - usually made of cast iron or cast aluminium) or where they typically break just after the flange (exhaust pipes are notorious for rusting out here, you will need to replace the front exhaust pipe and donut (gasket within the flange). Due to the high heat in this area it is extremely common for the bolts holding the pipe to the manifold to not just be ceased to it (lube will probably do no good) but to actually weld (or forge if you will) themselves to the metal of the pipe, in which case you need to cut them out with a torch. A good mechanic can usually do this without damaging the manifold. That is why it is a good thing if they have broken off and fallen out, much easier to change then welded in bolts (which would not fall out). I say replace the front exhaust pipe because without knowing which year your protege is or if it has an after market exhaust I don't know for sure if it is a one piece system or more than one piece. If it is a one piece you will need to either change the whole thing or do some cutting and welding to piece a section in. In which case, I do not recommend cutting the new piece you purchase but if the old exhaust on the vehicle is in alright shape from the muffler back you may be able to section it off and just replace the front section. Piecing it together would require at least one more piece, one to contact the old pipe to the new which would also need to be welded on but this method can still be cheaper (most of the time). Anything other than a simple in/out replacement will require torches and obviously if the bolts are welded in it is not a simple in/out job.

Figure out where there is a secure place to bolt where there is no rust and than you could always weld longer bolt plates to it..

take it to a welding shop or a body shop,, it needs a plate welded

IF U HAVE BOLTS THE EXHAUST WAS ALREADY REPLACED, IT'S EITHER 1/2 INCH OR 9/16 THE EXHAUST FROM THE FACTORY WAS WELDED, BUT U HAVE 2BOLTS AT THE CAT. PLAN ON THE BOLTS BREAKING MOST OF THE TIME THIS Happens with cheap clamps. Good luck.

no its not welded ,what i do vehicles from northern europe is soak everything in engine oil for a day or so ,what i find is a customer whos brought his down from the north and i service it i soak everything in sight with my trusty oil can so if in the future if i need to change a strut or ball jiont they come undone ,and every time the vehicle come back i check again to make sure i have oiled everything and oil it all over again ,pays dividends in the end

The only reason you should from the "cat back" is because the cat is plugged and the rest is rusted out. Any exhaust shop will be able to weld in a new catalytic converter appropriate for that make and model and if any new pipe is needed they can bend and weld the proper pipe. The cat will run about $125 - $200 and the rest will depend on the amount of pipe and labor needed so you might be able to get a package deal.

The factory cat converters are bolt on and can be done yourself. Aftermarket converters will have to be welded on at a muffler shop. The factory converters are more money but are a superior part. I've seen alot of catalyst detorioration codes come right back after replacing with an aftermarket cat and because there welded in you'll have to replace the whole exhaust system to get the factory one to bolt back in. The factory cat is the way to go.

use good lubricant , engine cold, slightly try tightening bolt, then loosening , back and forth until free  

I can't see a problem with the converter, but if your in one of the states that does emissions testing it might be a problem as it most likely would leak where its clamped. The best thing to do is get it all on and try to find someone to weld it for you. As far as axel seals, if there bolt in axels unbolt pull out and use the end of the axel to pop out the old seal, and just tap the new seal in carefuly. seals around $ 10.00. Break kleen will clean up break shoes and drumb. Need more help just ask.

they make a socket to take off damaged bolts & nuts