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Re: FXRS CONV -INSTALL TRIPLE TREES TO MAKE A WIDE GLIDE...
As long as the triple clamp stem is the same diameter, the triples can be changed out. As far as why, you're guess is as good as mine. Mine is that some people may like the narrow or mid glide front end, and an 883 just wouldn't look right as a wide glide.
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This is strange. My first question is just how big is this cooler on the voltage regulator? It has to be some aftermarket addition because Harley does not put coolers on the regulators, the regulators are designed with cooling fins on them. Secondly, has any modifications been made to the original front end or fender? The Super Glide came with the same front end as a Sportster for all practical purposes. Lastly, with the engine off and the transmission in neutral. Hold the front brake and rock the bike forward and backwards. Feel for any looseness in the neck bearings or anywhere else in the front end. Also, look for cracks in the triple trees. If you feel it "klunking", the cause needs to be found and corrected immediately. This could be a very dangerous situation. Personally, I would not ride the bike until I made certain that the bike was safe to ride.
You'll have to take each fork leg out of the front end to change the seals. I'm not positive what type front end is on FXDL but it it's a standard type (as opposed to an inverted front end), it's not too difficult.
First remove any sheet metal that might be covering the upper and lower triple trees. Lift the bike off the ground and remove the front fender and front wheel. Loosen the pinch bolt on the upper and lower triple trees. Do one tube at the time. Lubricate the portion of the top tube that is between the upper and lower triple tree. You must slide the fork assembly out of the triple trees. Loosen but don't remove the top caps.
With the fork assembly now out of the triple trees, remove the top cap and pull the spring out. Notice if the spring has a tapered end. Remember which way it came out so you can put it back in the same way. Invert the tube and pour out the oil and let it drain.
You'll see an 8mm bolt in the bottom. Sometimes this is a shallow piloted bolt. If so, you'll need at least a brand new hex key or allen wrench to loosen the bolt. Take the bolt out and slide the lower slider off the top tube. You now have access to the seal. Make sure you put the seal in faceing the correct way. Rince the slider out on the inside with clean mineral spirits and allow to dry. When you assemble the tube and install it on the bike, the amount of oil you put in it is the "dry" amount since you disassembled the tube and poured all the oil out. Put the sping back in the tube and install the top cap. Insert the tube into the triple trees and slide the tube upwards until the top of the top cap is 0.420" to 0.500" above the top of the upper triple tree (notice the height of the other tube that you haven't moved yet).
If, notice I said "if", your bike has the standard 41mm wide glide front end, changing the fork seals is not that difficult.
Get the bike up off the ground on a stable lift. Safety is paramount.
Now take the front wheel and fender off. Take the large "Bolt" out of one of the fork tubes at the upper triple tree. There are special sockets made to do this with so that you won't scratch your chrome upper tree. Loosen the pinch bolt on the lower triple tree. Put some lubricant on the fork tube and work it down and out of the triple trees. You may have to spead the lower triple tree by driving a chisel into the slot from the bottom side.
Once you have one of the fork tubes out. Remove the plug at the top. There will be a large spring under the plug. Usually it doesn't have much pressure on it with the tube fully extended and if it's the stock spring. With the plug and the spring out, you can pour the oil out of the tube. Notice which direction the spring comes out of the tube. I must go back in with the tapered end down.
Look on the bottom of the tube where the axle goes through. You'll see an allen head or socket head bolt in there. It' should be an 8mm sized bolt but it takes a "piloted" hex key. Now, you can use a standard hex key but it must be in new condition since the bolt head is so shallow. I have found that a hex key socket used with an air wrench is best to get the screw out. With the screw, you can now seperate the upper fork tube from the lower slider.
Remove the retainer ring in the top of the slider and pry out the old seal. Install the new seal in the proper direction. Reassemble the fork assembly. Now, add the proper amount of oil to the tube before you install the upper plug. The forks take 10.2 to 11.2 ounces of oil each. The lower figure is for a "Wet" refill and the higher number is for a "Dry" refill. If you take your fork tube apart and pour out all the oil, use the "dry" figure of 11.2 ounces type "E" or 30 weight fork oil. If the forks are too stiff with this oil, drop back to 20 weight fork oil.
Frame "rake" is determined by the angle of the neck section of the frame itself relative to the ground/earth. Triple trees are in front of the steering stem (or neck "axle/axis") does not define or affect the "rake" of the frame. Almost every other motorcycle manufacturer places the triple trees in front of the frame's neck axis, In 1980 H-D developed the "self-centering" type of triple trees, where the trees lay/fall behind the neck's axis. This type of front end design is very stable because the "weight" or mass of the assembly being behind the neck will "come back to center" while moving forward down the road.
You need the complete front end including the wheel. The FXDWG is somewhat of an oddball in that a lot of parts fit only that bike. A lot of other parts will not fit a Wide Glide. This even applies to the exhaust system.
Measure the diameter of your upper fork tubes, they're 39 mm tubes. The Wide Glide uses 41 mm tubes. The Wide Glide also uses a 21" front wheel.
should be 39mm dia forks , fxr parts is what your looking for second hand ,or in kit form harley list it i there cat (expencive) jp cycles, us. cheaper alternative. you wil also need wheel spacers , disc spacer and longer wheel axel. email me and i can list all the part num you need, email@example.com
you remove the axle 1st
the 2 large nuts on the top of triple tree next
on the lower portion of triple tree there is a bolt on each side remove it
the fork tubes should pull down and out
remove the top of triple trees
remove the cover in middle of triple tree under it you will find a loch nut and a special spannner nut remove both topp triple tree will come of
unlock triple tree twist lower tree it should slide out
reverse to install
Not an uncommon thing to happen. Hours of work required to replace a fifty cent part. Can't send you a manual, However I have one, and would be willing to send you what you need from it. email me directly at jshearer at twcny.rr.com with a good address and i'll get you the info you need.