Question about Ovens
Hello, 3 or 4 yrs, ago the digital display went blank, no clock, no temp. readout or any thing. had a repair man look at it . he said it would cost more to replace part thatn to buy new oven. so we just continued to use the oven wiethout a readout. now my wife auto cleaned the oven and the door stayed locked,fan continues to run. auto clean is done but cant use the oven. repair man said for him to break the door fix the problem would cost between six hundred and 1200.00 . when i got home i firmly pulled the door open. nothin broke but when i flip the breaker on the fan continues to run and none of the touch buttons wfill wourk. can you help
The "F2" means the oven control senses runaway temperature.
The cause of the problem could be the oven sensor, the oven sensor wire harness or the power relay board.
PS:please disconnect your oven from power supply completely before continuing.
Open the control panel and measure the oven sensor resistance at the control board. It suppose to be about 1100 Ohms at the room temperature.
If the reading is wrong do the same test at the oven sensor connection (where the sensor wires goes through the back panel).
If the reading is still wrong - replace the oven sensor.
If the reading is correct, check the wire harness and the connector itself (it's better to eliminate the plastic plug and hardwire the oven sensor).
If there is nothing wrong then the power relay board has to be replaced.
Posted on Nov 07, 2008
The oven door lock needs approximately 1 hour to cool down before the oven door can be opened after a self cleaning cycle has finished. If the lock does not open after the oven has cooled down, you can try....1) Unplugging the range or shut off the circuit breaker for 5 minutes. Plug the range back in or turn on the circuit breaker. Set the clock and try moving the door lock lever or opening the door. 2) Set the self-clean cycle again and only allow it to work for 15 minutes. Cancel the self-clean cycle and allow the oven to cool. Gently try moving the door lock lever or opening the door.
Most ranges today use 3 different types of door locks...one is a solenoid controlled lock ( you hear a loud buzz noise when setting or unlocking the lock and has a arm that you must move to set the lock )...another is a heat sensitive lock ( has a arm that you must move to lock and un-lock, makes no noises and has a spring that slowly moves to lock the door will the oven is heating up )...Some locks are motorized ( no handle to move, the motor locks the door by it's self when you set the range for self clean )... If the motorized and heat sensitive locks fails to open after the self clean cycle, you must access the lock and move it yourself to open the door. On the free standing ranges, most times you must lift the cook top to access the lock mechanism. On built in ovens, the oven must be pulled out to remove the top access panel to get at the lock mechanism. Some build in ovens can have the control console removed to access the lock system. On the heat sensitive style of lock, there are no electrical parts to operate the lock, usually you will need to replace the lock. On the motorized style of lock, you will have to use a ohm/volt meter to test why the motor will not work. On the solenoid style of lock, the solenoid is often mounted on the back of the range and can be accessed by removing the rear panel, some may be mounted at the front, such as in a built in oven. The failure of the solenoid style of lock is normally caused by a bad lock solenoid. In order to get your door open, you must operate the door latch mechanism manually. Unplug or remove power from the range. Take the rear cover off the range. Locate the door latch assembly and operate it manually and open your door. Then check continuity of the solenoid. Some of the latch assemblies have micro switches to supply power also. You may need to check them. You should be able to get the door open and use your range until you can get a tech to repair if you can not repair yourself.
If you've interrupted the clean cycle or have accidentally set the clean cycle with the oven door open, the latch may have engaged and now the door can't be closed because it will hit the latch. There may be a door activated* switch on the front face of the oven. In this case you may need to manually press that door switch with your finger while at the same time canceling the clean cycle to get the latch to retract so the door can close fully again.
Posted on May 20, 2009
The temp probe resistance should read between 1050 and 1150 ohms. If not. Replace it.It causes the overheating situation you describe.
Posted on Jul 16, 2009
There are two components that can mess up in this situation, the temperature probe and the PBR (relay board). This web blog describes how to check the temperature probe, and also has information about the relay board:
It may just be the temperature probe, in your case.
Good luck, thanks for using FixYa, and hope this helps.
Posted on Aug 22, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Aug 11, 2011 | Jenn-Air Ovens
Apr 10, 2010 | Jenn-Air 30 in. Pro-Style Electric Single...
May 11, 2009 | Jenn-Air 27 in. Electric Single Wall Oven...
Jan 21, 2009 | Ovens
Apr 10, 2008 | Jenn-Air JGW8130A Electric Single Oven
Jan 06, 2008 | Ovens
Dec 27, 2007 | Jenn-Air JJW8530C Expressions Collection...
May 22, 2017 | Ovens
217 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!