Same problem as ekoch86639, fixed thermostat - open circuit. Where do I purchase replacement thermostat."Thermaster 10/250, T250", location in Toowoomba, Qld, Australia

The side tank with the sight glass is for 2 stroke oil.

Nearly all the Owner Manuals are online, and Service Manuals as well.

https://www.scribd.com/document/485630500/Suzuki-TS250-72-81-service-manual-pdf

SUZUKI T250 SERVICE MANUAL Pdf Download - ManualsLib

https://www.manualslib.com > ... > Motorcycle > T250
View and Download Suzuki T250 service manual online. T250 motorcycle pdf manual download. Also for: T350.

check for a problem climatic control unit
if the ac gave out cold air when the thermostat was adjusted , it indicates a control problem rather than an ac problem
take it to an accredited ac specialist shop for a proper diagnosis and quote

This thermostat is a DPST (Double Pole Single Throw) type meaning it will switch BOTH pairs of wires either ON or OFF. It is a type used primarily for 220 - 240 volt circuits and can switch up to 22 amps of load current. Most heaters will provide a wattage rating and some also provide a current rating as well. Since most electric heat circuits are connected to a 2 pole 15 or 20 amp circuit breaker (or fuses) via #12 copper wires it should work well. If connected to a circuit greater than 20 amps - as long as the heaters connected to the circuit do not draw more than 22 amps will also work fine.

If all is well so far, the continue. The thermostat should have 4 wires. Two of one color, two of another (black and red are common colors). One color group will be the LINE (powered) side, and the other group is the LOAD (heater) side. You should verify WHICH color group is which for best results. The switch will open and close a connection between the LINE wires and the LOAD wires.

The thermostat should be installed in an electrical switch box located on an interior wall at about 5 feet high and not above any heater or heat source. Do not locate it behind a door that swings open, etc. The box should be supplied by a circuit from the electrical panel that will connect to the LINE side color group wires *and* a circuit that will extend from the thermostat's LOAD color group wires to the heater's wire connections / terminals.

If running common #12/2 (for a 20 amp circuit breaker) or #14/2 (for a 15 amp circuit breaker) romex cable from the panel will have the Black and White wires connected to the thermostat's LINE wires and the Black and White wires in the #12/2 or #14/2 romex cable from the heater will be connected to the thermostat's LOAD wires. The ground wires will connect to each other AND a short length of the same size wire should be run from this same point to each: the ground terminal screw of the thermostat and (if using a metal electrical box) to the electrical switch box with a separately purchased green ground screw designed specifically for this purpose. Plastic boxes are not grounded.

Leave a comment if you have other questions & good luck!

I think you mean no hot water? Check the Circuit Breaker for the Hot Water Heater, On? Not tripped? You will need a Multimeter to verify voltage to the thermostat and heating elements, If you feel comfortable working with electricity and basic hand tools it's a easy fix. Purchase the EXACT same Element/elements and thermostat, they usually come in the replacement kit. Shut down the AC circuit Breaker and water supply for the water heater, remove the cover, verify that NO AC is present, If you supply the Make and Model I will try to locate a presise procedure.

All Kenmore Electric Dryers use a thermal cut-off or thermal cut-out, hi-limit thermostat, and a cycling thermostat apart from the motor centrifugal switch as parts of the heating circuit. The thermal cut-off/thermal cut-out and the hi-limit thermostat are located on the heater duct/element duct while the cycling thermostat is located on the blower housing.







The thermal cut-off/cut-out serves as a safety measure and blows open should the dryer overheats or should the hi-limit thermostat fails to cut off power to the heating element. Check the continuity of the thermal cut-off/cut-out and if open, replace it including the hi-limit thermostat.

More often than not a no heat condition is caused by a failure of the heating element in electric dryers. Less frequent but just as likely is a failure of the thermal fuse which is located on a portion of the internal ducting where heated air passes through. The thermal fuse will disable the heating element in the event of uncontrolled overheating, which may have been caused by a malfunction of the temperature control thermostat or a malfunction/failure of a thermal circuit breaker.

Inside the appliance, either in the main cabinet or inside the control enclosure you will find the circuit diagrams and parts listing. If you feel confident in doing the repair yourself, these documents will help you locate the components of the system and give you the part numbers you need to order replacements. Make sure you disconnect from power before opening the cabinet. An inexpensive multi-tester will be all you need to check continuity of the components in the heating circuit.

You will have to replace the entire intake manifold. Check with salavage yard or try to locate a after market part from auto parts house.

You have a few options: check with your local radio dealer or radio shack store for a similar speaker, purchase another used T250 radio via ebay or other source, or simply retire the T250 and purchase another low cost TalkAbout radio. All these radios operate on the same 14 FRS frequencies. Motorola has never supplied parts for this line of consumer radios. They had a replacement warranty, then following the expiration of your warranty they were considered disposable/replaceable. Sorry.

Best regards.

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The Solution:
1. Firstly unplug the decks!!!
2. Remove the slipmatts and platter
3. Unscrew the circular plastic cover (Note: 5 screws holding it down)
4. Upon removing this circular plastic cover you will see a clear piece of plastic covering a circuit board, open it up. Now you will see a two fuses one clear and one stripey. 5. Remove the fuses (Gently poke it out with a pen/screwdriver or whatever) and examine it and see if either or both have infact blown.
6. Bring the suspect fuse/s to any electric/hardware/music type store (or search the net) and try to get a replacment but make sure its the same as the fuse you removed!!!. A T250 mA fuse(clear) an a T1A Fuse (stripey) are stated in the Technics user manual.
7. Now get the new fuse and gently snap it back in to the silver holders.
8. Replace the clear plastic circuit board cover.
9. Screw back the the circular plastic cover (Note: 5 screws holding it down)
10. Replace the Platter and slipmats
11. Turn them on and spin away