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old PC have dead coin, 1st things first
then see the model here, mx3w here, a true relic 20 years old
Hi,
in this situation, it might be most efficient to call Aopen directly and request that they send you the manual via email. If Aopen does not respond promptly, then you can reach out to the store that you purchased the computer from to make the request.
Thank you.
SOURCE: no sound--problem Multimedia Audio Controller
Your machine should use the AC97 codecs from Realtek. Should the standard AC97 codecs not work try the HD codecs which are linked from the same page. Windows update can sometimes create the problem you're experiencing - a reinstall should do the trick.
Post your results back here...
SOURCE: how do I connect the
just plug the cable into the usb of a computer and then connect it with the calculator and push the button pc/cal and it becomes like a numeric pad of a computer. It works with the computer calculator or with Excel forms
The problem I found with one a neighbor was tossing out is the bearings in the part that drives the brushes were stuck. Lubing them up solved the problem, but took a bit of work to get into. This also provides a good chance to clean the crud out of bits that usually don't get much attention. I found mine clogged with a fair amount of pet hair.
You'll need a Phillips & Flat Screwdriver, some light machine (3-in-1) oil or Lithium (white) grease, and a lot of patience. Having a pan or something handy to keep all the little bits organized would help.
First remove both the soap & recovery tanks, they'll just get in the way & are designed to be easily removed & replaced for filing/dumping. Be sure to fold the "wings" for the recovery tank in or they'll foul removing the cover later (as will the brush speed button).
The tricky part is getting the Brush Speed knob off. It's held on only by friction, but can be tough to pull for without breaking the plastic stick it's pushed onto.
Remove the brushes. There are 4 blocks between the outer & next in rollers. Put the flat screwdriver between the gray & clear plastic, pushing gently toward the brushes. This pushes a wedge away far enough from a hole in the gray plastic to "unhook" the brush housing from the main body. Once all 4 are clear, the brush assembly should pull out easily.
Remove the 2 big screws in front of the brushes and the one at the back of
the clear plastic front of the vacuum bit. The small ones at the extreme front corners hold on the clear plastic front, and can be removed if you want to clean out the vacuum channel, but are not necessary to remove to remove the top.
Toward the back sides of the top are 2 slots that hold this part on. Once the front screws are removed & the front is loose, push the side in gently & you should be able to lift the back of the cover. Push in lift both side, the top should pop right off.
Now I have the top off, holding 2 black & 1 silver long screw. In the center-front of the new-exposed guts is a box with a round top & a cone at the front with 2 screws.
This is the Brush Motor Assembly, and it's actually vacuum-powered. Remove the 2 screws holding down the from, then look for 2 large holes on the bottom of the unit behind the black "squirter bar".
There's very long screws at the bottom of these holes that also hold down the brush motor.Once the 2 bottoms screws have been fully loosened & the top-front screws removed, the brush motor should pull up easily.
On the right is a square port, in front the the brush speed stick (where the gray button pops onto). on the left is a gray & black hose, these should pull off easily, but may have some liquid in them.
Pull out the brush motor & set it on a convenient spill-resistant work surface upside-down. You should see the square-hole drice for the brushes, a gray piece of plastic, & a cresent-shaped hole.
The port at the front & hole on bottom provide an air path for the vacuum to poll air through this assembly & spin the brushes. You should see 2 screws at the back of the motor & 2 more at the bottom of holes surrounded by the gray plastic. Remove all 4 screws.
You can now pull off the bottom cover with the gray plastic. Front to back you should see the brush drive gear, an intermidiate gear, ant one of the bearings for the fan that drives the whole thing. pulling out the bearing & gears to clean out this area & lube up the gears with some Lithium Grease helps, as well as making sure the bearing is well lubed with 3-in-1 oil and/or lithium grease.
The top is held on at this point with 4 platic clips. The top doesn't need to be removed unless you *really* have to see the fan. The clips can be broken off if one is not careful, and there's nothing in there to be lubed. Best to leave it as-is.
At the top of the driveshaft is a second sealed bearing. I couldn't figure out how to get it out without braking it, lube this one in place. The bearings are supposed to be sealed, so removing the black "washer" from the bearing is done completely at your own risk. I just put some oil on there, spun it to work it in, then repeated with the white grease.
Replace the intermediate gear, the brush drive gear, then the lower sealed bearing in that order. You can spin the gears to ensure they're spinning well. Mine was OK, but after a bit of use worked the grease in & the brushes really started spinning.
Keep in mind everything here except the screws is plastic, be creful to get a snug fit with the screws without overtightening. "Gorilla-ing" the screws will just break the plastic & make the whole adventure an exercise in frustration.
Reattach the bottom plate with all 4 screws, 2 in the holes in the gray plastic, 2 in the back.
Reattach the gray & balck hoses to the left side of the brush drive. They're 2 different sizes, so there's only 1 place the smaller hose will fit easily. Place the assembly back in the machine & replace the 2 screws in the front.
Flip the machine up so you can put the 2 really long screws back into the underside of the brush drive. There's 2 guide slots on either side, make sure the brush with the indicator wheel on top goes into the big hole on the right. You may need to spin the brushes a bit to get the center squure stick to line up with the hole in the drive gear. The brushes should pop back in easily if everything's lined up right.
Put the top cover on, making sure the Brush Speed stick & center screwhole line up, as well as the back sides snap into place.
Screw down the top, then flip the unit up so you can snap the bottom-front of the top over the gray wedges on the front, then screw into place.
Replace the Recovery Tank, fill & replace the solution tank, and test-drive.
Vanger Chevane.
SOURCE: NEED DRIVERS FOR AN AOPEN
Hello,
You can download the driversfrom ASUS WEB site. http://usa.asus.com/index.aspx
So please go there website
For download clickhere
Or http://support.asus.com/download/download.aspx?SLanguage=en-us Suppose, you need driver for, ASUS K8V-VM
Product =Mother Board
So Series= (Socket NO.eg. 754 etc.)
So Model= (Model no will be K8v-vm)
And please select the O.S (XP / VISTA/ WINDOWS 7) version of the drivers that matches your P.C and search.
Now you can download easilyone after one.
Hope it will help you.
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Hi pmg70, I want to help you with your question, but I need more information from you. Can you please add details in the comment box?
Model VT82C692BX THIS IS NOT ANY KIND OF PC MODEL AT ALL.
]VT IS A VIA CHIP NUMBER I THINK AND VIA IS DEAD MAKER OF CHIPS, AND ONLY RUNS VERY VERY OLD OS.
THE CASE IF AOPEN HAS TAG ON ONE OF 6 SIDESTHAT DISCLOSES TO YOU THE MODEL OF THE PC
IF NOT THERE , THE MOBO HAS MODEL TOO.
ASERS MANUAL AND YES i KNOW AOPEN IS NO HELP EVER.
the only way to find manuals on a defunct makers products is to google. the world,WWW
even as old as 2001. !!!
open left lid of PC,
see mobo
see mobo has large white words AOPEN
just below is a model #
they made full size PC and down those odd
mini -PCs (a tiny cube)
all gone those, 2011 ended.
see em' ?
https://search.brave.com/images?q=aopen+...
as McCoy would say ,"He's dead Jim" applies.
or in the deep south, "Elvis left the building" ,,,<< my fav
or tell what you need to do, that you can't do now and we can talk that all day long as it is only a basic Desktop. or show a photo of yours here. besides power on, CD eject. buttons.
:??????
the super old ones with dead chips inside are stuck at Windows XP forever or Vista.
that and PCI, non express slots and no SATA port. ouch; and far worse AGP slots.
the new site is here.https://aopensolutions.com/windows/
the old website in the manual last pager
aOpen.com is dead. even for sale it is.
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