Question about Sharp R-1480 Microwave Oven

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Need to replace d3v-16g-3c25 for my sharp micro...where can I get it... .1 amp 124v dc

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  • cueone1 Oct 12, 2008

    Nedd to replace relay - Omron d3v-16g-3c25, door relay fot Frigidaire (Electrolux) model fmv156dcf. Where can I buy this relay?


  • cueone1 Oct 12, 2008

    Need to replace d3v-16g-3c25 (door relay) for Frigidaire(Electrolux) model fmv156dcf. When I open the door I trip the circuit, Where can I buy one?


  • R. Blake Kessler Dec 28, 2008

    The well-meaning solution suggesting alternate parts may not solve the proposed problem.

    The part number really is "D3V-16G-3C25". Mine is labelled OMRON and came from a Sharp R-308J microwave oven.

    I suspect this switch was used in many appliances and is common. Unfortunately I have not yet found anyplace that will sell less than lots of 100 of them. Tritonics and the Sears parts site do not list listed several possible sources, all of which were out of stock on 12/28/2008.

    I'll keep looking!



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That sounds like a door switch. Which switch is it? Top, middle, bottom?

Is your model number R1480? If not, please reply back with your model number so we can help you.

The door switches in model R1480 are:

QSW-MA110WRE0 top & bottom switches

FFS-BA016/KIT middle monitor switch with fuse (kit)

You can probably find exploded views and order parts by entering your model number here at the Sears parts site.

But the best place to order Sharp parts is Tritronics.

If none of this info helps you, please reply back with your brand and model number and let me know which part you need.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Posted on Aug 03, 2008

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  • 1 Answer and both will sell them in small quantites. lists this part as Part# 5304440026

Posted on Jul 17, 2009

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Go to They have everything you need. I had the same problem with the same switch. There web site is easy to use I did not even need the model number from my Sharp microwave. It is under door parts, and the picture is right there.
I hope that this site helps you as much as it helped me.

Posted on May 30, 2009

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I too had the same part go bad "D3V-16G-3C25" on my Sharp microwave model #R520LK. I looked around and everybody wanted to sell you 100 parts. There are 3 switches on the door It was the bottom door switch, for a quick fix, I switched it out with the top one which is the same switch and then wired the top two wires together. It now cooks again, but if you open the door to stop it before the timer runs out, it will stop cooking but the timer will keep on going, oh well, I then follow it up with the Stop and Clear button.

However I did find a new switch at for $4.95. Shipping was a little high and brought my total to just under $20, but what the heck, it's cheaper than eating out because your microwave doesn't work. seems to carry every kind af part for appliances, electronics & more.

Posted on Jan 06, 2009

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I have a r-1482 model so I don't know how close they will be. The biggest issue I found so far with my particular model, yours my be the same, is the door safety micro switches fail primarily from opening the door while the unit is in the process of cooking which causes them to arc and burn the contacts resulting in premature failure. With an ohm meter, check the resistance of the contacts of each switch individually with the COM terminal lug temporarily removed and ensure the closed resistance is 0 ohms and infinity when the contacts are open. Measure from the COM terminal to the terminal in use either N.O. or N.C., with the switch button NOT depressed the N.O. will be open while the N.C. will be closed and with the button depressed they will be opposite, in other words N.O. will be closed and N.C. will be open. Another thing to check is that the door hooks aren't broken (they activate the safety switches. Should you remove the switch bracket to replace the micro switches, make sure you wire the switches exactly the way they were COM to COM, NC to NC & NO to NO, mount them in the bracket the exact way they were and adjust the bracket so that the switch buttons are just to the point of being fully depressed and no more when the door is fully closed. The micro switches may be different in model numbers but you can sub with a micro switch that has all three COM, NC, NO terminals and only use the terminals in use for the given switch. I used Omron p/n: D3V-16G-1C25-K from Mouser Electronics (800) 346-6873. Since you didn't indicate the control panel was not operational I won't go into that area. I can't say if the timer will count down or not if the micro switches are bad, but it's a possibility, further pointing to the switches. If the control panel or MW tube is bad it's my recommendation to buy a new oven, though you can get new MW tubes, diode & capacitor, it's not worth the shocking experience to the human body, not to mention the MW radiation.
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That switch carries the current of the turntable motor, fan motor, and the high voltage section.

Door switch or mount trouble is usually caused by slamming the door or by opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.

It causes a spike at opening that eventually arcs and pits the contacts inside, and it can cause melting of the case.

You should check the switch mount for cracks, too.

Sometimes excessive current can make them fail too, but your fuse should blow before the switch.

We have the full service / repair manual for this model and have uploaded it to our site here to help you.

It will give you safety info, step by step help in disassembly, troubleshooting tips, and part numbers.

You will need the
free Acrobat Reader to view or print it in case you don't have it already.

If a switch is all you need, we offer a universal type for only $5 postpaid which you can order here.

We're happy to help you. Once we have all your information and offer a final solution, we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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I'm having problems with the door switches on my R-1480

We have the R1480-series service manual for this model and have uploaded it to our site here to help you.

You will need the free Adobe Reader to view or print it.

Double-check your wiring against the "pictorial diagram".

The switches will have a "C" (common) terminal, and a "NO" (normally open) terminal, and some will have a "NC" (normally closed) terminal.

As long as those connections are the same and the voltage and current (amps) ratings are the same or higher, any number of switches will work.

Even though a door switch clicks, it may still be bad inside. Its continuity must be checked.

Door switch or mount trouble can be caused by slamming the door or by opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.

There are plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.

The screws on these mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be activated properly.

Sometimes it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. This tab can be hard to see, since it is under the bottom edge of the switch.

It's easier to secure the switches with hot glue than to replace the latch heads, by the way.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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