Lid switch has broke off. fills with water will not agitate or drain now. Can we fix this ourselves ? Not very mechanical but it seems like a simple problem. If we could only figure out how to drain the water (discovered broken swich after I put in a load of clothes) and also how to get to the switch under the lid .
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if this is a top loader put a pencil into the lid switch opening if the machine spins and drains when the timer knob says it should the tab on the lid or the lid switch has failed...replace the switch or the tab that goes into the lid switch opening
WATER PRESSURE SWITCH: This switch keeps your washer from overflowing. It is responsible for shutting off the power to the fill valve and redirects the power to the timer to start the washing machine running once the correct water level has been reached. Meter check ur waterpressure switch?
You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube.
If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good
( No wash starts - then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED) another test u can do is Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well.
Or take the original hose tube and plug one end and blow into it AT the other end, it should be hard and have pressure, if it is easy to blow and u dont feel any pressure and it feels like the air is going out ?
Sometimes they get busted open or a pin hole and release air causing the water switch diaphragm to not open.
Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and
Drive Belt If the washer won't spin or agitate, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin or agitate properly.
Drive Motor If the washer won't spin or agitate the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged, replace it.
Stator Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the stator assembly might be burned out. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.
Transmission or clutch assembly not engaging due to going out or slipping.
Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.
Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.
Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly.
CHECK THE CAM DOGS INSIDE THE AGITATOR, AS THEY WILL HINDER THE AGITATION PROCESS. However in G.E models the cam dogs are replaced with what is called an agitator coupler. (located at bottom of tub)
Remember to check the agitator spline as well for worn broken teeth.
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!
Washer will not drain:
Thedrain water pumpis the main part in your washing machine that pumps out the water. If this is defective or has failed in any way, this will be the reason why your washer will not drain the water. Before you order a new drain pump, make sure tocheck the pump to be sure a small object like clothing or similar has not lodged itself insideof it causing the NO DRAIN issue and even a no spin issue?. If the drain pump is not clogged, you can test it with a multimeter and remove and replace if needed. Go to Google or YouTube and search for "Replace Washing Machine Drain Pump" then type your brand and model number of washer to show you details on replacement.
The washing machinedrain hoseis where the water flows through to get the water out.If this drain hose is blocked, kinked, bent, or clogged, the washer will NOT be able to remove the waterfrom the tub. Check the drain hose to be sure it allows the water to flow freely. You can take the drain hose off and run water through it in your sink to be sure it is not blocked. If there is water STILL in the washer when you remove the drain hose, grab a bucket as the water will exit from where you disconnected it
Thewater pump belt(to drain out the water) may have broke or become frayed or loose.If this belt breaks then it is unable to drain and remove the water from your washer. Inspect the belt to see if this is causing theNO DRAINissue and remove and replace if needed.
If thelid switchis not working as required it will cause your washer to not drain (and many other problems).This may be unlikely as a bad lid switch will usually cause your washer to alsonot agitate or spin.However on some models this can vary. The best thing to do if you have a suspected bad lid switch is to test it. It can fail electrically and or mechanically. If mechanical failure is the issue, you should be able to see if it is cracked, broken, or not in place to make contact with the lid. To test it electrically, use a multimeter set on Ohms and test it for continuityMy advice is free cuz God is good!
when it went unbalanced the tub most likely broke the lid switch part 3949238.open the lid,on the right side of lid you'll see a strike,it goes into a hole and this is where the lid switch is,stick a screw driver into the hole,if you don't hear a clicking sound the switch is broke http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MFsvLiuTniU
Sounds like you have a bad lid switch, or the plastic plunger on the lid that engages the lid switch is broke. if the plunger is broke, it is cheap, and only 2 screws to remove and put new one on. if that is not broke, check the lid switch. This model is a lid switch, and lid lock in one. You can test it before replacing it if you have a meter. you need to hinge the lid up to check and replace the lid switch. use a putty knife, on each side between the top and top of the front panel. slide the putty knife in one side, it will hit a bracket if your in the right spot. press in, and lift on that side of the top. do the same on other side, just don't let go of the first side or it will latch again. then swing the top back, the back side is on hinges. the lid switch is on the right side attached to the top. unplug washer, remove the 2 wires on the switch and check continuity. there should be continuity, or "open" when the lid is closed, and no continuity, or "closed" when you open the lid. if it is "closed" even when lid is closed, replace the lid switch. let me know if you have any further questions, shane.
I recently had this problem. It was found that the main drive belt broke and the washer would fill but not spin, agitate or drain. I replaced the belt and everything worked again. A defective or disconnected cover switch would also cause the same problem.
Okay...I'm a little confused on your symptoms. You initially said it fills, but doesn't agitate or spin, but drains. Then, you finished with the washer filling, no agitate or spin, but now doesn't drain. Which one is it? The symptoms you describe are usually associated with the following: 1. Fills, may or may not agitate, won't spin or drain - lid switch. 2. Fills, may or may not agitate, won't spin, but still drains - motor coupling. 3. Fills, may or may not agitate, won't spin or spins slow - gear case. 4. Fills, agitates, spins, but does not drain – water pump. NOTE: These are the more common failure items with these symptoms. Double check the lid switch by opening and closing the lid. You should hear a clicking noise to indicate the switch is working. The switch is located under the top panel along the wash tub rim on the right-hand side. If not, check to make sure the lid strike (small plastic piece on the lid itself) is in place. This activates the lid switch when the lid is closed. Also, check the mounting screws along the rim (there are two of them) to see if they are tight. If the motor coupling were bad, the washer would still drain, but there would be a rattling sound as the washer tries to spin or agitate. If you need replacement parts, go to searspartsdirect.com and type in your model number in the "Search by Model Number" window. The lid switch can be found under the "Top and Cabinet" heading as item number 11 (part #3949238).Instructions on how to replace are located at the following link: http://www.fixya.com/support/r385199-replacing_lid_switch_whirlpool_top If you wish to replace the motor coupling, the part can be found under the “Brake/Clutch/Gearcase/Motor/Pump” heading as item number 13 (part #285753A).If you need instructions on how to replace, just follow this link: http://www.fixya.com/support/r385250-replacing_motor_coupling_kenmore_top Now, there’s a couple of ways to drain the washer. If it’s a simple lid switch problem, you don’t need to drain the washer to replace the switch.With a broken switch repaired, the washer will run and drain by itself.However, if you wish to drain the tub you can use a shop vac to pull a vacuum on the drain hose.This may take a few times depending on the size of the shop vac.These wash tubs typically have about a 35 gallon capacity.If you do not own a shop vac, you can by-pass the lid switch by jumpering the two BLACK wires at the lid switch connector that is connected to the console.CAUTION: Make sure you UNPLUG the washer before jumpering, then plug back in. I hope this information is helpful to you.If I’m wrong about the symptoms, please post back and update me on what the washer is or is not doing, so I can assist you further.