Question about Blakeslee F-20-CA Stand Mixer

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Is there a dipstick for the oil?

There is no oil visible when the oil nut is removed from under the top.

Could you tell me if there is a reasonably priced used hook for my mixer?

It says that it is an F-30, serial number 92269.

Thank you

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  • 640 Answers

Google northernparts.com they can help you out.

Posted on Jul 30, 2008

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I've a hobart a200 that i want to recondition. How to remove the motor inspection cover. There 's a bearing with a nut, how to remove the nut, the rotorshaft keeps turning.


First, remove the steel ring sitting recessed into the hole where the nuts are.

Remove the top transmission cover (top front of mixer, two screws) allowing access to the motor's cooling fan blade.

Using a small prybar (or large, if you wish), prevent rotation of the rotor by placing the prybar on one fin of the fan blade, and bracing it against the mixer's frame. Remove nuts with a 3/4" socket and ratchet.

Aug 08, 2010 | Hobart A200 Stand Mixer

1 Answer

I have a t801 mixer with a bent planetary shaft.


Remove the whole planetary from the bottom... There should be a large nut on the main shaft...remove it ....whole assembly drops down...careful...don't drop it......At the top of the bent shaft you should see some center punches holding a thin nut in place.....drill them slightly so you can loosen the nut. There are some studs that hold the lower bushings in place...remove them with a straight blade that fits the screw snug. You can have a new shaft made out of stress proof steel shafting from a competent machine shop........MONSTROSPIZZA.COM

Jan 29, 2010 | Hobart Food Mixers

1 Answer

The mixer binds in 3rd. gear on my hobart model 120 counter top mixer. how can i fix it.


It sounds like either your main shaft nuts are loose in which case you can tighten them up. Tighten the bottom planetary nut first then draw up the main shaft with top side nut but not to much. Its possible to overtighten this. You tighten the top until you feel it getting tight then back it off a little. Otherwise you can pinch the gears and everything tight to the shaft by over tightening and your shifter speeds wont work right.

Or If thats not it, Has the transmission been apart recently? Its possible to put that top gear in upside down which will lock it up when turned on. and break additional parts. I'm talking about that two part gear assembly that has the spring loaded diving key in it. Match up the wear points. you should be able to tell which way is up by the wear on top or bottom of that gear.

Hope that helps!

Dec 20, 2009 | Hobart H600 Stand Mixer

1 Answer

Hello i would like to know what kind of oil to use on a Hobart mixer d300 its a 3 speed mixer the problem im having is 3rd speed runs like 1st speed could it be the clutch that is bad thank you


d-300 and d-340 mixers dont use oil they use grease -47 can be bought @any hobart office. there are several reasons why this problem can happen. try tighning the planetary nut all the way then back off 1/4 TURN .also do the same with the top main shaft nut if that doesnt work contact me back

Nov 16, 2009 | Food Mixers

2 Answers

Loose gear


Lock out-Tagout the machine. Remove the top cover, hold the beater shaft while removing the center shaft nut. Then remove the 4 bolts and and hardware on top of the first(worm) shaft and the second(clutch)shaft. you can gently tap the top cover up with a cold chisel on the upper parts of the housing. It's just a friction fit , aligned on two dowels. Once the cover is off, scoop out the grease, remove the side panel and selector assembly. Try and lift all of the first gear assembly together. the newer ones have a series of rollers and springs, which can be easily reassembled, if you see which way everything was. As you rmove parts, lay them on a clean surface in a row in the position they came out. The selector sleeve is marked TOP, but looking at the 4 drive teeth each side, you will see how it drives 2nd and 3rd gears. The clutch and worm shafts lift out together from slip fit bearings in the housing base.

When reassembling, coat everything with new grease, and run before loading all the grease. If you need to remove anything , you won't be up to your wrists in grease doing it. Once all is good, load the grease in the top hole nearest the motor with it running. The gears will feed the grease as you load the 35 OZ.
If you removed the planetary to remove the center shaft, don't tighten the half nut tight. back it off a half turn and lock it with the acorn nut. Otherwise you will loose first gear from pinch friction.

Sep 14, 2009 | Hobart A200 Stand Mixer

1 Answer

LEAKING OIL SEAL ON HOBART 660 CAN'T GET PLANETARY TO COME LOOSE


Definitely need to remove the acorn nut. There should then be a few thinner nuts as well. Make sure to drain the oil from planetary first and also be careful as the entire assembly is heavy. If I recall correctly, you need to be aware of a fiber gear that follows the inner gear (sun gear) and drives the oil pump that is mounted inside the planetary.

Jul 18, 2009 | Hobart Food Mixers

1 Answer

Hobart Mixer bowl won't go up


If the worm screw is turning but not lifting the bowl, the bowl lift nut is stripped.
H600 part number is 24198.
To change it, you need to undo the screws down the right side yoke slide to release the yoke. You will need to lift the yoke to reach some of them. If you have some wood place it under the yoke and over the legs to protect the paint. On top of the yoke are two blots holding the keeper plate over the nut. One is the stop screw for bowl height. Don't loose this setting. remove the slide, edge the yoke forward a bit to free the worm. Run the old nut down the worm and off the bottom. When you run the new nut on, all the excess grease and metal shavings will start to build up. Clean as you go, or better still, brush with solvent or similar to clean the worm threads . relubricate, run the nut up above the yoke, reload the yoke and attach keeper plate, reload slide.
To adjust slide, snug screw near bottom keeping slide close to yoke, run yoke to top and tighten top screw just enough to hold slide in place, lower yoke to bottom, gently tap top of slide in a 1/16" and tighten top screw. Run yoke to top of slide. It should start to bind slightly in the last 2 inches of travel, which will stop the bowl from dropping in use. Tighten remaining screws.

May 13, 2009 | Hobart H600 Stand Mixer

1 Answer

Sunbeam Mixmaster 12 speed may need lubrication


Part 1. Oiling the model 12:
Anyone can do this part.

On the top of the motor are four places where oil should be applied.
Starting from the speed finder dial and working forward-

There is a small hole on the top of the motor, just in front of the speed dial. Using a wooden skewer or a match, clean the hole out, and apply two drops of good quality sewing machine oil.

On top of the motor, and near and behind the juicer attaching cone is another hole, sort of key-hole shaped. Clean it out and put in one drop of oil only.

Three drops of oil go into the juicer cone. Let them run down the side of the hole.

Next to the juicer cone is another round hole. You may need to turn the handle as in removing the beaters to uncover it. Clean this hole too, and apply another three drops of oil.

Do not apply more oil than specified. It will get into the works where it shouldn't.

The following proceedures assume some mechanical ability. Read first to assess whether you are competent before starting.

After all these years, the gears in the front of the motor housing probably need fresh grease. This is a fibre based food grade grease that can be obtained from most bearing sellers. (I used a non-food grade grease, but I have to watch that the motor doesn't get too hot, and the grease run down the beaters, which can happen in extreme conditions.)

Prepare to get greasy during this proceedure. Latex gloves are an asset for doing this job.

Remove the cover plate in the centre of the front, and then the central screw from the front and pull away the front housing cover and handle. Don't loose the coil spring inside. It goes over the screw you just undid.

Unclip the return spring on the beater ejector, and remove ejector and spring together, slide the ejector down and off the beater spindles, then up and out of the guides..

There are four screws that retain the gear cover. The lower right hand one also retains a wire. Remove the screws, and gently bend the wire so the cover can be removed. There is a gasket underneath. Take care not to break it, it's brittle.

Once the cover is away, the gears and worm shaft are visible. Using a pop stick or old screw driver, remove the grease around the under side of each gear. A square headed set-screw retains each gear. When you find each screw, remove it completely. Turning the worm shaft will make the gears rotate.
Once both screws are out, pull the beater drive shafts downwards and out of the housing, and lift out the gears.
Using pop sticks, paper towels etc, but NOT solvents, clean out the gear space. Remove all the grease possible. A toothbrush is good for cleaning the worm thread. Use someone elses.
Wash the gears and shafts in petrol, kerosene or similar and dry thoroughly.
Reassembly is the above in reverse order, first filling the gear housing with fresh grease.
Grease each drive shaft lightly before refitting. Note the holes for the set screws in the shafts.
The nylon gear goes on the left, brass under the juicer cone.
Fit the nylon gear first, working the shaft upwards until the locating hole in the shaft can be seen through the screw hole in the gear. Fit and tighten the set screw.
Align the brass gear so both screws face forwards at the same time when engaged with the motor worm, to prevent the beaters clashing. You may have to put the brass gear in and out a few times to get the right teeth engaged with the worm shaft. Then slide the shaft in, once again observing the alignment of holes to ensure the set screw locks the gear securely.

Put everything else back in reverse order. Apply a smear of grease for the beater ejector where it slides, and don't forget to put the wire back under it's screw.

Part 2, speed control.

The jerky operation at low speed is probably due to dirty points in the governer. Addressing this involves disassembling the rear end of the motor.
DON'T pull the motor armature out of the housing without first removing the brushes during this proceedure. There's no need to remove the armature, but if you're curious....

Remove the chrome cap from the centre of the speed finder dial. Remove the lock nut from the thrust control screw under the cap. Remove the dial, catching the washer that goes under the nut.
There is a resistor, usually green, and a capacitor, a small aluminium cannister under the dial. Gently pry the retaining legs away from one end of each and remove them. Note which one goes where so you can put them back correctly. Marking with a felt pen is a good idea.

Now are visible two slotted screws. Remove these screws and pull the governer housing back and away from the motor. Note the pin with a plastic head, and remember to put it back when reassembling the same way around.

Locate and clean the points with a slip of soft wood and metal polish. Clean away the polish thoroughly. Do not use emery paper, it will make the points arc, and speed control will be worse than now.

Put everything back the way it came off.

To reset the governer, leave the locknut on the thrust controling screw loose. Set the speed control to position 1. Whilst pressing the dial home with one hand, screw the thrust screw in or outwards until the motor just starts to run, and lock the screw by tightening the nut. Test the control for full range, and tweak by slightly altering the thrust screw position as required. Getting the speeds just right first go is usually a fluke.

Replace the chrome cap and you're done.

May 12, 2009 | Sunbeam 2485 MixMaster Series Hand Mixer

1 Answer

Oil seal


1. Remove the acorn nut, hex nut, and washer that hold the "planetary" agitator section on the transmission shaft.
2. Remove the trim ring (if any) around the same.
3. The agitator section should now be able to be worked free.
4. Remove the retainer clip on the top of the agitator shaft. (Some models have a pair of hex nuts here; if so, remove those.)
5. Pry the gear up and off the shaft. Remove the square key from the shaft keyway at the same time.
6. Tap gently on the top of the agitator shaft to drive it out from the bearings and grease seal.
7. Recommend removing and replacing the top bearing at this time; it's inexpensive to replace, if you're in this deep.
8. Use a suitable diameter piece of round steel stock to drive out the lower bearing and oil seal. I don't recommend using the agitator shaft.
9. Clean thoroughly, insert a new bottom bearing and oil seal, drive in place with a rubber mallet.
10. Replace agitator shaft through oil seal and bearing, tap gently into place.
11. Fill cavity with approved lubricant. I use USP-grade mineral oil, as it is food-safe and provides satisfactory lubricity.
11. Install top bearing, tap gently into place.
12. Reverse steps 5-1 to reassemble.

Aug 24, 2008 | Food Mixers

1 Answer

Hobart 140 Qt Mixer 4 speed. needs the oil changed? what kind of oil to use?


You can use a heavy weight gear oil or call the local hobart branch for it.To remove oil----Look under the mixer where the beater shaft is in the back and you will see a three quarter inch nut,remove this nut and drain the oil then put nut back in.To fill the unit remove the top cover screws and remove the top,you will see a long hexagon nut in length,remove this and grab a funnel then add the oil---be patient it takes time to fill as the oil is heavy.

Jul 24, 2008 | Hobart H600 Stand Mixer

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