Clock will not hold time when power is removed.

I assume you are replacing the built-in Audiobahn power amplifier with your 4 channel Soundstream amp. If so, you can set the Soundstream for bridge mode which should net you 2 high power channels of 250Wrms@4ohms or 500Wrms total power (if the speakers are quad VC), or alternatively, non bridged for 4x125Wrms (if the speakers are dual VC). You can see why below.
Next, you need to confirm each subwoofers coil configuration as follows: If each woofer is quad, there will be 8 connectors; if dual VC, then there will be 4 connectors. For dual VC, if each VC is 4ohm, you can choose between 8 or 2 ohms by series or parallel wiring. If each VC is 2 ohm, you can have 4 ohms in series to use. This can be determined with an ohm meter across one set of VC terminals. If you can get 4 ohm for each speaker, this will allow you to use the 2 channel bridged mode with each speaker getting the full 250W. If each VC is 2 ohm, use non bridged mode and run each of the 4 channels to each VC. For this case, use a 2 to 1 RCA jack to sum the two channels for each speaker on the amp's input side to make the signal 2 channel instead of 4 channel. Below are examples of quad and dual VC for reference only, the wiring may not match your setup which will depend on your VC resistance (impedance) measurement. Don't forget to set your HPF(High Pass Filter) as this is a subwoofer setup.

when you checked the elements for continuity did you remove at least one of the wires off of it,if not it will check good.if the elements are good,unplug it,pull it out and remove the back wall so you can get at the wires,plug it back in and make sure you're getting 240 volts to the bake element and 120 volts to the broil,if you have 240 volts coming to the machine at the plug and you don't have 240 at the bake element check for broken wire,if wires are good you have a bad clock assy. the relay on the computer board is bad and you'll have to change out the clock assy. unfortunitly you can't get this clock anymore but you can send it out to have it rebuilt,go here and get info,hope this helps
http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Oven-Control-Board/71002331/695629

whenever you read out any part with a meter you have to pull at least one of the wires off of the part you're checking,unplug the machine,slide it out,remove the back panel so you can see the broil wires and the ends of the element,pull off the wires and check it with a meter for continuity,set the meter on 20k ohms,touch the leads together and it should read anything but 1,then touch the leads to the ends of the element, if it stays on 1 the element is bad if you get any other reading other than 1 the element is good,also while you're back there but be careful,plug the machine back in with the element wired, set the meter to volts and check to see if you get 120 volts to the broil element if the element checks good,if you check the bake element you should have 240 volts,if the element is good you could have a broken wire or a bad computer board or also called the clock assy.i've seen the elements burn and break and short out the clock assy. and it doesn't mean the clock doesn't work,it's the way they're built the computer board is built in with the clock that's all so if the computer board gets damaged the clock still can work so if you check it with a meter

Just had the same problem with my Miele H383 oven clock. In my case the root cause happened before the power outage. It was a bad connection between the clock printed circuit board (pcb) and the main control pcb .I only discovered it when I couldn't reset the clock. So what appeared to be a serious fault after the power spike was fixed by simply moving some wires (gently).
The wires concerned are the small black loom which go from the back of the clock to the edge of the main board in the top of the oven. There are 16 of them into one connector that fits on the front edge of the main board.
To access this you need to remove the top cover immediately behind the oven control panel. There are only two screws which may have Torx heads but you will prob. get them out with a flat head screwdriver if you try hard enough .If your oven is mounted underneath worktop you probably won't need to take it out completely to do this but take care it doesn't tip or slide out.(remember there are up to 4 small wood screws, accessed by opening oven door, that secure oven to the housing).
The next step requires you to be aware that mains voltage is present around the main control board and the main rotary selector switch so keep your fingers out of this area.
With the power on press the two outer clock setting buttons (as per normal clock setting) and at the same time wiggle or manipulate the 16 wire loom coming from the back of the clock. Try it in all sorts of positions. I was lucky and had success after just a few attempts. I also removed the clock complete with the 16 wire loom and checked the continuity of each wire from main board edge connector to the clock pcb but I could not find a problem So there may be poor soldered joint on the clock pcb which makes and breaks as I move the loom around. Whatever, I am happy again and have saved a lot of cash!
p.s Have your vacuum cleaner to hand and clean the dust out the inside whilst you have the lid off. Good luck.

You have T104 timer that controls 240Volt motor.
You have 240Volt GFCI breaker.
GFCI to motor works fine.
GFCI to timer trips breaker.

Either timer is wired wrong, or ground fault in the timer.

Open following links to review wiring:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-T104-Intermatic-timer.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/T-104-control-240V-Load4-35.jpg

1) Make sure clock motor wires are on terminals 1 and 3, and that clock motor is 240Volt WG1573 and not 120V WG1570
2) Try connecting GFCI hot leads to terminals 1 and 3 and don't connect wires to motor.
3) Click manual override both directions and see if a short appears.
4) Remove ground wire from timer but leave power connected. Test metal timer body to ground wire to see if there is power flowing to ground.
5) Unscrew clock motor from body, and make sure clock is not touching metal body, repeat test to ground to see if clock motor is bad.
6) Remove small white wires that power the clock, to test if clock is shorting. Replace WG1573 if clock is bad.

7) Connect 240Volt motor to terminals 2 and 4. Click override back and forth. Then reverse wires to 4 and 2.

this could be a number of things.first go to the block where the plug is connected to the machine,with a meter make sure you have 240 volts coming to the machine,if not you have a problem with your fuse box in the house or the plug .if you do have 240 volts or 220 volts find out what side of the element isn't getting power and follow the wire and see if there's a short in the wire,the connector could be loose on the end of the wire where it connects to the element or you could have a bad relay on the board or clock assy.if thats the case you have to have the clock assy. removed,draw a wire diagram and you send out the clock assy. and have it rebuilt.you can call 1-888-606-0090 at appliancetimers.com they rebuild your part and send it back to you because your part is no longer available,but you have to get in there with a meter and see why no power isn't going to one side of the element

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Power-on LED illuminates when power button is pressed, fans spin, and boot tone chimes, but there is no video

1. Reseat video card. (Make sure video card is fully inserted in connector and end of card is secured by the connector latch.)

2. Reset PRAM (restart computer while holding down Command-Option-P-R keys until second boot tone chimes)

3. Replace video card

4. Reset logic board. Refer to "Resetting the PMU on the Logic Board" in this chapter.

5. Replace logic board

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Resetting the PMU on the Logic Board

The PMU (Power Management Unit) is a microcontroller chip that controls all power functions for this computer. The PMU is a computer within a computer. Its function is to:

tell the computer to turn on, turn off, sleep, wake, idle, etc.

manage system resets from various commands.

maintain parameter RAM (PRAM).

manage the real-time clock.

Important: Be very careful when handling the logic board. The PMU is very sensitive and touching the circuitry on the logic board can cause the PMU to crash. If the PMU crashes and is not reset, the battery life goes from about five years to about two days.

1. Disconnect the power cord and check the battery in the battery holder. The battery should read 3.3 to 3.7 volts. If the battery is bad, replace it, wait ten seconds, and then proceed to step 2. If the battery is good, go directly to step 2.

2. Press the PMU reset button once and then proceed to step 3. Do not press the PMU reset button a second time because it could crash the PMU chip.

3. Wait ten seconds before connecting the power cord and powering on the computer. If the computer does not power on, there is something else wrong with it; refer to the "Startup Failures" section of "Symptom Charts" in this chapter.

Note: The above procedure resets the computer's PRAM. After resetting the PMU, be sure to reset the time, date, and other system parameter settings.

I had similar problem in 2001 rx300. Every morning the clock
will reset to 1:00. Sometime this will happen when I started the engine. The Lexus dealership replaced the car battery. According to the mechanic, The Rx300 are very current sensitive system and even though The existing battery was 3 years old the cold weather made the current go below the allowed limit. That makes the clock reset to 1:00. After replacing the Car battery, the problem when away

You can replace the battery yourself in about 20 minutes. It is not soldered. You will need a replacement battery, which is a CR2032 watch battery, a small Philips screwdriver, and needle or thin-nosed pliers.
1. Remove all cables from the dtxplorer unit, and remove it from the drum kit rack.
2. Remove all 6 screws from the bottom side (i.e. opposite the face)
3. Remove the 3 lowest screws from the rear (jack-filled) side, including the one which holds in the little plastic power cord hook, then lift off the bottom and set aside.
4. You will see the bottom circuit board, covering the top board. Carefully pull off the spade connectors from the power switch, using pliers or patient wiggling, they are on fairly tight but will come loose. Note which one is which for proper reattachment.
5. Near the center of the board is a little white plastic post end sticking up, through a hole, from the inside (top) board, with small tabs. This loosely attaches the two boards. Using small pliers, squeeze the tabs on the post end, and pull up on the board and it will separate from the inside (top) board. Carefully move the board toward the front of the unit to free the jacks from the holes in the case, and then you can easily fold the board toward the front, like opening a book. (Don't try and remove the large wire sets attaching the two boards)
6. You will see the button-like battery. Just push it toward the spring clips at one side and lift it out. Replace it with the new battery, + side out.
7. Just reverse the steps to reassemble, hook it up and you're ready to go. Easier to do than this makes it seem. Greg

Hi. SOunds like another case of power problems. Your deck has 2 power wires. One is yellow th eother is red. One is constant 12 volt battery power, the other is a switched 12 volt power, only has power with the ignition key on or on accesory. Get yourself a test light. I almost bet you do not have the constant 12 volt power to the deck, therefore your deck cannot hold its presets...