Question about Pioneer Audio Players & Recorders
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I know this post is pretty old, but I just came across it. I have a GTP-750 that I have fixed. They do run extremely hot which causes the rectifiers in the power supply to fail. I have the rectifier part numbers to fix it as well as cooling method. I have been running mine now for about a year after fixing it sometimes at high levels for extended amounts of time and the case is now barely warm. If you need advice or pictures of my setup send me an e-mail
Posted on Apr 26, 2007
SOURCE: Volume Control
The volume control shaft lube, over time and heat exposure, will flow down and corrupt the contact between the volume twister and the spring loaded sensor. Pull the cover off the tuner, locate the volume control and take out the two screws holding it in. It looks like a small circuit board with the volume twister attached.
The base of the twister is hooked to the circuit panel by four metal tabs. Pry these guys gently away and pull the twister free. There will be a metal disk at the end of the volume control shaft, and will have a goopy lube residue on the face of it that can be cleaned with electric contact cleaner or some other kind of solvent. Wipe it clean,(do not immerse) reattach, and test. Worked perfect for me.
Posted on Jan 28, 2009
I have the exact same amplifier with what sounds like the exact same problem. I opened up the amplifier, and while it was powered on started tapping around until I heard the popping and crackling suddenly increase. I was using a piece of wood and the plastic part of a screw driver for this. The popping and crackling suddenly burst out onto all channels when I was tapping on the DSP board (encased in a metal enclosure to the very right of the amplifier).
I took off the metal enclosure (with the receiver turned off, of course :), and with the receiver on, and started tapping around the DSP board, and I found that the biggest crackling effect was achieved when I tapped on the Cirrus Logic CS493292-CL chip which does all the decoding and switching.
I detached and took out the DSP board and looked at it very carefully but of course couldn't find any bad connections. I tried resoldering all the feet of the Cirrus Logic chip and many many components all around to no avail.
Finally I tried applying pressure to the chip while the popping was going on, and it stopped. Further investigation revealed that bending the board around the chip produced the same effect.
For the life of me I couldn't figure out why bending the board eliminates the problem, but my solution was to put a piece of eraser wrapped in masking tape and taped to the Cirrus Logic chip, and two other pieces on the back of the board in such a way that when the metal enclosure was replaced onto the board, it put gentle but firm pressure onto the Cirrus Logic chip and at the same time bent the DSP board slightly.
It's been a few days without popping, clicking or static, but time will tell. Good luck!
Posted on Feb 05, 2009
SOURCE: Pioneer Amp VSX-D409 Volume
I have a VSX D508 Looks just like the VSX D409. Had the same prob with the volume control when I bought it. I first tried the cleaner. Better than what it was but didn't compleatly solve the problem and before long it was getting worse again.
It does have a rotary encoder instead of the traditional varible restance volume control. I finally broke down and removed it from the board and lightly sanded the contacts with fine sandpaper.
This involves removing the whole face from the main board and chassis. Not that bad, a couple screws and some ribbon jumpers and latches and it's off.
Next carefully pull the volume control straight off the shaft, remove the nut under it and lay it face down on a soft surface. Remove the screws that hold the circuit board to the face and slowley seperate the too, you'll have to release some latches also to sepperate them.
If you replace the volume control with a new one or clean the old one you have to go this far because it's soldered to the front side of the board. Yes, it has to be de-soldered from the board.
This control was not designed to be dissassembled but I was able to carefully open it and remove the shaft to totaly expose the contacts for a complete even couple of passes with the sandpaper.
I did have to use some 5-minute opoxy when I put it back together because I couldnt get the metal tabs to close as tightly as they were before it was opened.
I soldered in the volume control, put it back together and it's worked perfectly ever since. I don't know how much pioneer wants for a new one but I can tell you they wanted $69 plus shipping for a new remote for my receiver. And with this style of volume control you might be at their mercy as far as finding one from another source that fits.
Posted on Apr 03, 2010
SOURCE: VSX-859 RDS turns off
This is pretty close to the same Operating Manual. Generally speaking, an amp protects itself from heat, shorts and overloads. Overloads can be from excessive periods of high output and shorts would be wiring issues or a speaker blowing up. You should be able to feel if it's hot. WHY is it overheating? Make sure it has sufficient ventilation on all sides and that vent holes are not blocked by dust balls. Ensure the fan (if equipped) is running as designed (some only operate on demand). Clean dust and debris from it. If the amp comes back on after cooling, you're lucky. They only have so many self-protection cycles in their lives so continuously resetting or cycling their power without addressing the cause can do more harm than good. If it protects immediately on a cool power up you should disconnect the speaker connections and try it 'naked'. If it comes up then diagnose which lead(s) are shorted. If it does not come up the problem is internal and should be left to an experienced hands-on tech.
This is the service manual, for what it's worth.
Generally speaking, an amp protects itself from heat, shorts and overloads.
Overloads can be from excessive periods of high output and shorts would be wiring issues or a speaker blowing up.
You should be able to feel if it's hot. WHY is it overheating? Make sure it has sufficient ventilation on all sides and that vent holes are not blocked by dust balls. Ensure the fan (if equipped) is running as designed (some only operate on demand). Clean dust and debris from it.
If the amp comes back on after cooling, you're lucky. They only have so many self-protection cycles in their lives so continuously resetting or cycling their power without addressing the cause can do more harm than good.
If it protects immediately on a cool power up you should disconnect the speaker connections and try it 'naked'. If it comes up then diagnose which lead(s) are shorted. If it does not come up the problem is internal and should be left to an experienced hands-on tech.
Posted on Jan 30, 2011
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