The ice maker doesn't work, the fridge compartment is warm and the door seal is hot

Alternate answer is quite interesting...
The dollar test is A REAL TEST...
(but done after every thing else is clean, level & square
(see your MANUFACTURER'S instructions )

You might want the check that the pizza box
isn't blocking the door... and replacement seal
availability before blasting any/all surfaces of
your freezer/refrigerator with any kind of HEAT
(ever... (typically a serious NO-NO)).

Try following the SET-UP and DOOR ALIGMENT
sections of the OWNERS Manual... before melting
perfectly good parts, panels & seals.

Water levels... sticky & hollow cubes are all signs
of a poorly adjusted ICE-MAKER.

There are a couple of simpler reasons for water... the ice maker has a couple of adjustments... both of which can run water into
the freezer compartment...

the ice chute or door might not be fully closing...
Check for complete closure... Ice chip or cube holding the door open.

Often a really good defrost will set things right... without needlessly menacing your faithful appliance.

Consider buying a couple of the very in-expensive thermometers below... routinely cleaning the coil (s)...

I'm around almost every day... I like refrigerators.
Be gentle to them.... they will be good to you.

Usually due to CONDENSATION due to bad door seals or a plugged evaporator drain line? Can use a soft flexable tubing and very hot water to clean it out. Bad door seals usually need replacement, but u can use a blow dryer and something to pry it closer to the door wall while blowing hot air on to it. To create a seal, to test for bad door seals place a dollar bill in between the door and wall of fridge where it closes. Then slide out the dollar bill with door closed. It should offer some resistance and not be easy to pull out.
Most all fridges have a drain. Look inside your fridge for a "V" shaped channel with a small hole. This hole leads to a tube and a small pan which sits on top of your refrigerator's compressor. The defrost cycle causes water to run into the channel, down the tube, and then it generally evaporates with the heat of the hot condenser/compressor.
However, if that tube is clogged with food crumbs, particles , debris etc, you will have to clear it to get back to a normal mode of operation. A toothpick, pipecleaner, straw or a cotton bud can often do the trick.
Even a frost free freezer will still ice up at times in the areas away from the heated defrost area and the drain line can freeze. This icing causes the pipe work to the compressor to ice over or sweat and cause a puddle. Or if the drainage has frozen over, it will need to be de-iced. ( usually the line is under the freezer bottom plate covering. Towards the back of the unit) And there is another inside the fridge area also.
Give the freezer a good overnight defrost until it's totally clear of ice in addition to making sure the drain is clear to the pan at the back and then restart the freezer.














Fridge not starting? CLICKING? FIRST ALWAYSCHECK FORpower at the outlet,checkfor 120 volts.

The door is heated so it doesn't stick shut with ice. It may be that the condenser is clogged or the fan isn't running, causing excessive heat in the strip. Clean the condenser thoroughly and check the fan.

Hi this problem could arise due to various reasons so lets find out what could it be the cause.

1)In the back of your freezer compartment is the drain hole. It's very common in GE for the drain to freeze up. With the drain hole plugged up, your freezer will continue to defrost the evaporator, but not the water in the drain hole. So the water builds and freezes, builds and freezes until it eventually overflows into the air diffuser for the fridge causing the leaky fridge problem."Heat Probe" that can be installed.This will prevent water from freezing up in the drain hole allowing it to drain as designed

2)Inspect the door seals and the sides of the refrigerator around the doors. If you see any beads of water or moisture, then the door seals may be failing to create an air tight seal which causes the cold air from the refrigerator to escape and form condensation around the doors. Sometimes you can solve this problem by applying a light film of gasket lubricant to the existing seals or just cleaning them of any debris with a warm soapy rag. If they still don't seal well after you apply lubricant, or clean them, you may need to replace the entire seal assembly.

3) If the water is coming from the freezer but you think that the defrost drain pipe is clear, then it may be coming from the ice maker. Check the ice maker for cracks in the unit's body or a misalignment of the water supply line. Make sure that the water supply spout in the freezer lines up with the ice maker's water supply cup.

4)Check the ice maker copper water supply line, your ice maker water filter, and the plastic ice maker water supply tube for any cracks, splits or connection leaks. If you find any leaks, remove the leaking part and obtain a replacement at the hardware store.

5)Your leaking refrigerator may just have a cracked or damaged drain pan. Your fridge regularly drains water into this pan to prevent water pooling in the fridge itself. Evaporation takes care of the rest. Look underneath your fridge where the drain pan sits and pull it out for inspection. If it has a crack or is otherwise damaged, contact the appropriate retailer about getting a replacement as soon as possible.

6)If your leaking refrigerator is draining inside as opposed to onto your floor, you're probably dealing with a clogged defrost drain. Your fridge is constantly producing condensation inside the freezer, and that condensation drips down the defrost drain into a drain pan underneath the unit. This defrost drain can become clogged with debris or, more often, it freezes shut. Look in your refrigerator manual to locate your defrost drain, and take the appropriate steps to unclog it (inundating your drain with warm water will often do the trick).

Note:Switch you Refrigerators for more than 8 hours and let the frost melt fully use hair dryer and now switch on and check you are getting leak.

post a comment for further assistance.

Thank you for using fixya have a nice day:-)

your damper door is frozen or iced up and not opening up to let cold air in from freezer compartment,defrost it and make sure its dry,also check your door seal to make sure its sealing good and not letting in warm air that can condense and freeze things like the damper door

that is ok these fridges have the condencer lines within the walls of the fridge or some have heaters this is for condensate not to form on the fridge it keeps the fridge dry on the outside

5 reasons for fridge and/or freezer getting warm: 1- the evaporator coils are icing up and won?t let air circulate. 2- the evaporator fan is not working to circulate air. 3- there is no refrigerant in the system. 4- no power to fridge or compressor. 5- the condenser coils have no air circulation check under the fridge behind the vent. if it is too dusty or the fan isn?t working, it is not getting enough airflow to cool down. replace fan and/or vacuum out the dust. if there is no power to the fridge, the light will be off. if the compressor is not running, there is a defrost timer that cuts the power temporarily to the compressor to melt ice on the coils. it?s located under the fridge behind the bottom vent. If the timer is off and the compressor is not going, the compressor or the main board is bad and needs replacing. there is also a temperature sensor on the evaporator coils that tells the defrost coil to turn on and when to turn off. if the defrost timer is on but the coil is not heating up, replace the sensor. if it still won?t heat up, it?s the timer or the coil. the easiest way to tell if there is no refrigerant- the freezer wall is warm and the compressor is loud. if there is no refrigerant, it may be more cost effective to replace the fridge. if you feel no air coming from the freezer vent, the fan needs replacing. If you feel air moving in the freezer but not the fridge, the channel from freezer to fridge is blocked. if the freezer has air and the rear freezer wall has frost on it, the evaporator coils are iced up and need defrosting. causes: 1. low refrigerant 2. no fan 3. too much humid air in fridge/freezer due to door open or bad door seals 4. the condensate drain tube is clogged if the seal around the door is ripped or not completely sealing, or there is condensation at the bottom or the walls of the fridge, replace the seal(s). no air, no fan. Replace if the refrigerant is low, it just needs a top off. but you need to be certified by the epa to move refrigerant, so get a professional. defrost solutions: unplug the fridge. remove the wall of the freezer that is frosted/icing up. use a hair dryer to melt the ice. do not get too close. you will see a drain under the evaporator coil. make sure it is not blocked. the water should run freely to a condensate pan under the fridge that evaporates the condensation with the hot line from the compressor. once the coil is free of ice, frost, and water, replace the panel and repair any of the problems that caused the icing up. plug the fridge in and turn it on. If it frosts up within a week, there is still an issue that not been taken care of. after the freezer freezes again, your ice maker will work again.

you may have aburn out may be heater

your condenser motor is not running repl it asap before it melts ur wtr lines or seals around door

The number one cause of this is the door is not sealing correctly. Check that the door closes and seals as it should.