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Re: casa blanca fan motor speed control
Is it a potentiometer or a switch? Common multispeed fans use a multi-position switch for speed selection. Try contacting the manufacturer for a replacement. If you would satisfied with a single speed fan, you could wire in a regular old toggle switch. Maybe you could scavenge a suitable switch from a junk fan...
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• Remove rear panel & rear air duct. Remove belt from belttensioner. Remove top panel & drum if needed for better access.
• Disconnect terminal connector from motor, then remove two screws from motor mount & one screw holding fan to front shield. Lift rear of motor mount up and slide entire assembly toward rear of dryer.
• While holding motor shaft, not rotor fins, remove fan blade from motor shaft. Remove three screws, then remove fan housing from motor.
• Remove spring clamps by pushing ends of them down and away from motor. Lift motor up from motor mount.
Cage motor is the best blow out with compressed air. Also, by the way, clean the fan housing from the inside.
Remove the front blower cover assembly. Remove the round retaining clip on center of blower wheel. Pull blower wheel off motor shaft. Remove belt from motor pully. Pull out dryer drum. Remove clips holding motor to base frame. Remove motor assy. Easy peezy. Reassemble in the opposite manner.
make this test and fix it. Merry Christmas
1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for a tripped circuit breaker or a blown fuse. Check the wall socket for power with a voltmeter or by plugging something else in.
2. Door switch / Door switch actuator lever
The dryer would not start with a broken door switch. Replace the door switch if found defective.
Most dryers have a door switch actuator lever - when you close a dryer door, it presses against the lever, which actuates the door switch. If the lever is broken, the switch would not activate and the dryer would not start. Replace the lever, if broken.
Note: Door switch actuator lever usually comes with the door switch assembly and it is recommended to get the whole assembly since there is almost no price difference between the door switch assembly and just the lever. Check your model for more details.
3. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.
Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.
Replace if defective (note: uncommon problem).
Dryers have a drive belt that turns the clothes drum. If the belt breaks, the drum stops rotating. Then you need to replace the belt, and often the idler pulley, because the pulley tends to wear out at the same time. If you hear the motor running but it does not tumble it is most likely the belt.
If the dryer motor only hums when you press the Start button, the motor may be burned out.
The problem is likely with the centrifugal switch on the dryer motor. This switch connects the start winding of the motor which provides additional torque at startup. Once the dryer is up to speed, the switch disconnects the start winding. If it malfunctions, the dryer will not turn and the motor will hum. By spinning the drum, you are providing enough torque for the start winding to be able to take over and bring the dryer up to speed.
You may be able to solve this if you can lubricate the centrifugal switch with a spray lubricant. If not, you may have to replace the motor. I do not know if the centrifugal switch assembly can be replaced.
A fault code of "F" then "1" flashes when there is a primary control failure. You will need to replace the machine/motor control assembly. Page 14 and 16, in the manual link below will help you with this.
HE Top Load Washers Models: F1 Error Code WTW6200S WTW6300S WTW6400S WTW6600S WTW6700T MTW6300T MTW6400T MTW6500T MTW6600T MTW6700T Serial Numbers: CT01 - CU52 There are four areas of concern that can cause the F1 Error Code. Each area must be sequentially addressed to ensure that the diagnosis is correct and the proper repair is completed. A) Air leaks in the air pressure (switch/sensor) hose. a. Inspect the hose for cracks, pin-holes or loose connection. b. Replace the hose and harness assembly (W10058730) if it is compromised. B) Moisture in the air pressure (switch/sensor) hose. a. Inspect the hose for evidence of water. b. Replace the hose and harness assembly (W10058730) if water is detected. C) Lint or flashing in the air dome hose connection port. a. Inspect the air dome hose connection port for lint or flashing. b. Use a small round device (small screwdriver) to ensure that there is nothing blocking the air dome outlet on the tub. D) The control needs to be replaced. a. Replace the control only after you have completed steps A - C above, and verified that there are no issues with the air pressure system.
F then 2 flashes when in: Diagnostics Test mode if a stuck key is detected. Standby mode if there is a user interface mismatch. DISPLAY (Saved Code) EXPLANATION AND RECOMMENDED PROCEDURE
Console and Indicators This test is performed when any of the following situations occurs during the Console and Indicators Diagnostic Test:
None of the indicators light up No beep sound is heard Some buttons do not light indicators None of the indicators light up: 1. Perform steps in Accessing & Removing the Electronic Assemblies, and visually check that the P11 connector is inserted all the way into the machine/motor control. 2. Visually check that the user interface assembly is properly inserted in the console assembly 3. If both visual checks pass, replace the user interface assembly. 4. Plug in washer or reconnect power. 5. Activate the Console and Indicators Diagnostic Test mode to verify repair. 6. If indicators still do not light, the machine/ motor control has failed: Unplug washer or disconnect power. Replace the machine/motor control assembly. Plug in washer or reconnect power. Activate the Console and Indicators Diagnostic Test mode to verify repair.
No beep sound is heard: 1. Perform steps in Accessing & Removing the Electronic Assemblies, and visually check that the P5 connector is inserted all the way into the machine/motor control. If visual check passes, replace the user interface assembly. 2. Plug in washer or reconnect power. 3. Activate the Console and Indicators Diagnostic Test mode to verify repair. 4. If replacing the user interface assembly failed: Unplug washer or disconnect power. Replace the machine/motor control assembly. Plug in washer or reconnect power. Activate the Console and Indicators Diagnostic Test mode to verify repair.
Some buttons do not light indicators: 1. Perform steps in Accessing & Removing the Electronic Assemblies, and visually check that the console electronics and housing assembly is properly inserted into the front console. If visual check passes, replace the user interface assembly. 2. Plug in washer or reconnect power. 3. Activate the Console and Indicators Diagnostic Test mode to verify repair.
To Access/replace the CCU:
Unplug the Whirlpool Cabrio power cord from the wall outlet. Turn off the water supply to the washing machine. Pull the washer away from the wall so that you can access the screws behind the control console. Remove the hex head screws securing the control console to the washer with a nut driver. The screws are on the lower rear edge of the control console. #2
Lift the control console up, and rotate the console forward so that the face of the console is resting on the top of the washer. Locate the interface board cable connector to the right of the plastic tube on the back of the console. Pull the end of the connector straight out of the control console. The primary machine control is the box that the plastic tube connects. #3
Place small pieces of masking tape around the nine wires connecting to the primary machine console. Label the wire locations onto the masking tape with a pencil. Grasp each wire at the connector with your fingers, and pull the wires away from the primary control. Pull the plastic tube out of the primary control. #4
Locate the nut toward the bottom of the primary control. Remove the nut with a nut driver. Lift the front of the primary control slightly, and slide it down to disengage the retaining clips. Pull the primary control out of the control console. Insert the new primary control into the control console. Slide the primary control up to engage the lower clips. Secure the primary control to the console with the single hex head screw. #5
Push each of the wire connectors into their respective positions on the primary control until they lock into place. Push the plastic tube hose over the port on the right side of the primary control. Remove the small pieces of masking tape from the wires. #6
Position the control console back upright on the top of the washer. Secure the control console to the washer with the three hex head retaining screws. Slide the washer back against the wall. Turn on the water supply and plug the washer into the wall outlet.
If the drain time exceeds 8 minutes, the water valves are turned off and
F02 is flashed.
Press PAUSE/CANCEL twice to clear the display.
NOTE: After 4 minutes the “Sud” error will be displayed, then 4
minutes later the F02 error code will be displayed.
• Check the drain hose and make sure it is not plugged or kinked
• Check the electrical connections at the pump and make sure the pump is
• Check the drain pump filter for foreign objects
• If the above does not correct the problem replace the pump
The fan motor must be tested by energizing it and reading volts from timer control.
If the fan is faulty it must be replaced, if there is no volts from timer control, then either wiring harness or timer control assembly must be replaced.
This doesn't appear to be a simple task so I would suggest
making sure you have the time to do this so your project does not get
1: Remove power (better now than later ;-) )
2: Remove the front door assembly (2 screws holding the hinge to the drier carcase)
Remove the top cover (2 screws at the rear, then slide the top
backwards and lift off). It's a good idea to remove any fluff from the
innards at this point.
4: Lay the drier carefully on it's front (I used a pillow to protect the timer and 2 pushbuttons)
5: Remove the cover over the drum bearing and earth strap (2 screws)
6: Remove the cover over the fan assembly (numerous screws)
7: Remove the earthing bracket (copper assembly held by 2 small screws) and then remove the circlip and washer on the drum axle
8: Remove the fan vanes (3 hex screws holding 2 metal flanges that make up the impeller fan)
Remove all screws around the rear cover and gently lift it up (I
supported one edge with a basin perched on the rear of the drum, it
gives access to the motor chassy etc. There's a vent tube that will
come dislodged at this point; it's easy to relocate later.
Remove any bits of the old belt and drop the new one round the drum.
Use tape to hold the belt in the correct position on the drum (if you
don't do this, you WON'T gave enough slack to go round the motor
11: Carefully feed the belt past one
idler wheel and then over the motor pulley. Slowly turn the drum
slightly to encourage the belt to feed round the second idler wheel.
12: Remove the tape used to hold the belt in place
13: Replace the rear cover (make sure the vent tube is seated correctly at front and rear). Tighten all screws.
14: Replace the Fan assembly
Replace the drum bearing circlip (I took the opportunity of rotating
the bearing through 180 degrees). Replace the copper earthing strap.
16: Replace the fan housing cover and drum bearing cover. (Make sure the heating element is free of fluff and crud)
17: Replace the top cover
18: Fire up the beast!!! It may smell a little if there's anything still on the heating element.