This problem just appeared out of nowhere, just started at one moment and won't stop. The deal is I get noise mainly from subwoofer whenever it plays basses. Some speakers also pick it up. If I turn down the bass level to 0 (subwoofer stops playing), sound is quite ok. Turn the bass back on and there's the noise. It is not constant though, it goes with the basses. I tried toopen the subwoofer case to see where the problem might be, but everything seems fine by look. Interestingly though I noticed when I pulled out the back panel noise decreased rapidly. Pulled it back in place and noise increased again. Makes me feel like the air flow is restricted, and with an extra opening it gets better. I don't want to throw it away especially when I know satellites are fine. Any help much appreciated.
a 6ya Technician can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Technician (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
I have a similar problem with my 2012 civic, I hooked up my 1800w kenwood mp to my 2 12" w6s and 1 song plays and sounds great, the rest of my songs have no bass from the subs, just the car speakers sound normal so I dont know what the hell thats all about. I thought it was a wiring issue but I can play the one song all day and it sounds perfect so any suggestions? thanks in advance
Listen to the output with headphones to check for noise.
OFTEN the output of a drum machine is CORRUPTED by an inadequate sound system. The waveforms generated by a drum machine tax the sound systems. A bass drum output can drive the speaker cone such that it goes beyond the linear range that the speaker and amplifier can handle and this appears as "noise". The noise may sound like a buzz or totally break up.
Turn the volume down and see if EXACTLY the same noise appears at low levels. If not, then saturation of the amp and speaker is likely. Continued use while it is doing that will often destroy the speaker.
Have you double checked the wiring ( + to + and - to -)? When hooked up correctly, a sub should push outward when bass hits. If your wiring is correct and your amp isnt too big for the speaker then its about to go out.
It sounds like the installer wired the amp remote turn-on terminal to an "accessory" lead in your vehicle. Many stock radios do not have a dedicated amp turn-or lead and the alternative is to connect the amp to a switched power source (ignition or accessory). This means the amp turns on whenever you turn on the vehicle ignition, often resulting in a thumping from the subs. It is a perfectly satisfactory alternative, and will not damage either the amp or the sub. But it's irritating.
If the thumping is objectionable, have your installer wire a SPST (Single Pole, Single Throw) toggle switch inline with the turn-on wire. The switch should be mounted so it is accessible by the driver, and whenever you turn on the radio, turn on the toggle switch.
Offhand, could either be the subwoofer speaker itself or the electronics (amp and/or crossover). One way to determine is by physcially checking the sub speaker. When playing with bass on, pls try restricting speaker movement by pressing on it and see if the noise is reduced. Another is to temporarily replace the speaker. You can try speakers meant for the car, home entertainment or book shelf, just dont set the volume too high.
If the speakers are ruled out, then it would be the electronics inside. For this, you would need familiairty with electronic components and circuittry, a DVM and a soldering iron. Access to an oscilloscope and an audio signal generator would be nice but not a necessity. The idea is to inject a constant audio signal and determine where the noise (if electronic) is coming from. In most instances, it would be a leaky electrolytic capacitor either in the input stage or feedback loop. At other times, it would be also a capacitor in the band pass filter.
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.