The zag part of zig zag won't work

Stretch cotton fabric? Use a ball point needle and probably a zig-zag stitch. The more stretchy the fabric, the wider the stitch and the shorter stitch length between the zig-zags. If the thread is popping when you stretch the seam, then widen the zig-zag and shorten the stitch length.

Check to be sure you are using needles and thread that are compatible with the fabric. Generally, finer threads will work better on fine fabrics along with a smaller needle. Be sure to change needles frequently as dull, bent, or nicked needles will cause very frustrating issues.
All About Needles

Remove the thread completely from the machine. RAISE the presser foot and rethread from the beginning, making sure the thread path is correct.

Some machines have a presser foot pressure adjustment (consult the owner's manual). Adjusting the pressure that the presser foot applies to the fabric & feed dogs is helpful when sewing especially fine or heavy fabric. Also, when sewing fine fabrics, loosening the tension could be beneficial.

Changing presser feet may also help, ie try using a straight stitch foot vs a presser foot for zig-zag stitching.

Something else you can try is finding a presser foot with a teflon finish or a roller foot that will glide or roll with the fabric through the machine. Even if you can't find a brand name presser foot for your particular machine, an adapter shank can probably be found that would allow you to use snap-on feet of all different designs and uses. Provides a lot of choices for presser feet for less than purchasing a brand-name presser foot. There are snap-on kits available on eBay and other auction sites.

Some machines also can take a straight-stitch needle plate--usually an additional accessory that can be purchased. The hole where the needle penetrates the needle plate to access the bobbin thread is actually a small round hole. With a zig-zag needle plate, the hole the needle penetrates is a wide rectangular hole that can allow fine fabrics to be pulled down through the hole. Zig-zag capable machines usually have a zig-zag needle plate as standard.

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The machine should be able to pull the fabric through without any assistance from the user. Pulling or pushing fabric will frequently cause the needle to bend and then break when it hits the needle plate or the hook. Flying pieces of broken needle can be very dangerous for you as well as damaging to the machine because it can knock the needle/hook out of time. (Uh-oh! Service time!)

Try installing a brand new needle specifically for the thread and fabric you are stitching. (Dull, nicked, or bent needles are probably the #1 sewing machine problem--an inexpensive fix for a very frustrating issue! Needles should be changed frequently or sooner if they are damaged.)

All About Needles

Some sewing machines also have a special accessory called a straight-stitch needle plate. Instead of having a horizontal rectangular shaped hole to accommodate the left-to-right needle swing to make a zig-zag stitch, there is a tiny round hole just big enough for the needle and thread to perform a straight stitch. The round needle hole is small enough to prevent or limit the chance of the fabric being pulled down into the bobbin area.

Straight stitch plate:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/271963297717?ul_noapp=true&chn=ps&lpid=82

Zig-zag Needle Plate:
https://www.google.com/search?q=Bernina+zig-zag+needle+plate&tbm=isch&imgil=PXesGDP1gxgggM%253A%253B0OfvcjNTtGe5oM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.thecolorfulworldofsewing.com%25252FNeedle-Plates-For-Bernina-1630.html&source=iu&pf=m&fir=PXesGDP1gxgggM%253A%252C0OfvcjNTtGe5oM%252C_&usg=__Y0Wg3M9kgo4z4_1s4emmMPxKMBg%3D&biw=1173&bih=520&ved=0ahUKEwih7O-z0orLAhVB-2MKHZV6AwMQyjcIKA&ei=SZ3KVuGjA8H2jwOV9Y0Y#imgrc=PXesGDP1gxgggM%3A

Yes, because a zig zag stitch is creating a wide stitch and the tension on the thread is going to pull the fabric within the seam together, you can't seam thin fabric with a wide zig zag. It will "tunnel together". If you are using this stitch to neaten a raw edge, then try using the serpentine or three step zig zag where the needle pierces the fabric 3 times in each leg of the zig zag, this will give better results.

When zig zagging over a raw edge, the tension on the thread will pull in the fabric, especially in lightweight cottons or even lighter organza. Its not the best edging method for very light weight fabrics. You can try using a smaller zig zag, loosening off the top tension a little bit. Or if your machine has it, use the triple zig zag or serpentine stitch, where the needle goes through the fabric three times to make up each zig stitch, this stitch is better for edging most fabrics and is my preferred stitch.

you probably shouldn't be using a zig zag for that application. But the multi-stitch zig zag.

Please look at page 40 of your manual for information.

As for needle breaking check to make sure your need is the correct one for the thread and fabric. Also make sure your pressure foot is the one recommended for the stitch. Consider this... most thicker fabrics require a longer stitch.

You have the machine set for blind hem stitching. Change the stitch selector to stretch stitch, which is a single, in line stitching zig zag stitch.

Cheers,
Embroidery Services
San Diego, CA

THis problem occurred as I was sewing on Neoprene. I was using Gutterman all-purpose thread and a size 80 needle. Tried switching to a size 70, then to size 90. Still unable to zig zag. After inserting a test sample of cotton, the zig zag worked perfectly, so I knew it was not a mecahnical problem. I switched needles again. This time to size 90 for stretch fabric. Voila! Problem solved.

Because it is almost a straight stitch but the needle continues to move in a zig zag fashion is reason to believe it is in a long stitch. By changing the number of stitches per inch there will be a very noticeable looking zig zag stitch.

I do not have a buttonhole foot, but I can tell you how I do it with the zig zag foot on the Singer 132Q machine.

1. Mark the spacing and size for the buttonholes with chalk or marking paper. This consists of a straight line with a perpendicular line at the top and bottom that lets you know how big to make the hole. There is probably a pattern piece to let you know what the spacing should be, and you can get the size of the hole for the top and bottom line by laying the button you are going to use on top of the line you draw with the pattern.

2. Make sure the bobbin has plenty of thread.

3. Put the zig zag foot on the machine.

4. Set the stitch size to 1 or maybe a little less. You want a tight stitch to hold the hole together.

5. Start at the top of the buttonhole with the perpendicular line barely visible in the zig zag foot. Think of it as placing the "T" made by the mark in the "T" made by the opening in the zig zag foot.

6. Set the needle pattern to #1 of the buttonhole pattern (2nd from the top). Make sure it is toward the top of the number to insure you get a wide zig zag stitch. If you are getting a narrow stitch, you may have to fiddle with it, but it will work. Stitch 4-6 times making sure the stitch is wide, and end on the left side of the stitch.

7. Change the needle pattern to #2 of the buttonhole pattern and zig zag stitch down to the bottom mark. Do not pull the fabric or you will stretch the stitch. Make sure your last stitch is on the left hand side.

8. Change the needle pattern to #3 of the buttonhole pattern (same as #1), and zig zag stitch 4-6 times ending on the right side this time. Make sure the stitches are wide.

9. Change the needle pattern to #4 of the buttonhole pattern and straight stitch back to the top mark. Be prepared to hand roll the needle the last few stitches to make sure you do not pass the top stitches you have made.

10. Change the needle pattern to #5 of the buttonhole pattern and zig zag stitch back to the bottom mark. Hand roll the last few stitches and end on the left side.

11. Raise the foot and remove the fabric. You are now ready proceed to the next buttonhole or cut the buttonhole open with a small pair of scissors or a seam ripper. Make sure you do not cut any of your stitches.



Make sure you practice on some scrap fabric of the same thickness (2 layers of fabric plus pellon) to make sure you have the size right before you sew the buttonholes on the garment.

GOOD LUCK.