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Front load drive motor on Kenmore washer will only turn the drum in a counter clockwise direction an there is no fast spin

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You could have choosen the gentle care mode or delicate mode where in it would only run in one direction and would spin slowly.


tnx 4 using fixya,

drcool

Posted on Jul 28, 2008

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My washer will not spin and acts like the inner drum with holes is stuck, what is wrong?


One of two reasons: The drum belt has broken and needs replacement, or TWO, check for an object that may have accidently jammed the drum from turning; such as a sock falling into the tract where the drum rotates, or a bad seal. Check the drum for movement by hand, and see if you can free it up manually. Last: check alignment. Look for damaged fittings.

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My Kenmore Elite HE 3 model #110 4822 201 will not spin. It runs through an entire cycle and fills and drains. The drum will turn a few turns clockwise when spun by hand but then will not move further...


Hello there:
The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor. The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool and Kenmore have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it. The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.

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1 Answer

My washing machine won't spin. I check the motor


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Following is the Whirlpool / Kenmore PDF on operation and maintenance of their top load, direct drive washers.

It has a good description of how the transmission works.

Following is the Whirlpool parts diagram for their commercial top load, direct drive washers including transmission parts and numbers. The parts for the consumer washers are basically the same.

We assume that something broke the coupler the first time.

I'd check to make sure that when you put the new coupler in, the six holes in the rubber piece lined up with the prongs in the plastic pieces.

If they did, the next thing to check is the transmission.

Following is a description of how to pull the transmission / gearcase.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

I found that instead of buying a special spanner wrench to remove the Tub Nut, a 10" pipe wrench opened fully and hooked to one of the prongs on the Tub Nut, giving it a quick tap with a hammer does well.

You really don't have to remove the drum and Tub Nut and drive block to remove the transission.

I'd pull the transmission and try turning the input shaft manually both ways, clockwise and counter-clockwise.

If it won't turn, it's likely that something in the transmission has broken and is jamming the main drive shaft.

There are a couple of plastic parts in the transmission. The Agitate Cams and the gear teeth on the main spin gear.

Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 16Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic agitator cams and the main spin gear.

The main spin gear is relatively expensive (Approx.$90 ) so if that is broken, you might want to consider a replacement transmission.

The Agitator Cams are only about $15,


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The rear is supported by a steel ball screwed to the rear of the drum (the 3 screws that I think are causing your troubles) that rides in a plastic saddle screwed to the rear of the machine.
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What you have here is a broken drive coupling
the part looks like this:
2279c1c.jpg
To fix it CLICK HERE

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