Dryer not heating checked element for continuity it was good. Any ideas?

Hi,

Just coming from a basic perspective, please test the powe outlets that your dryer uses with other devices so that you ensure that the power source isn't at fault. Thank you.

Check the circuit breaker for the dryer. It most likely has one leg tripped internally. This will allow only 120 to operate the motor and controls, but not the heating element.

THERMAL FUSES MAY BE THE CAUSE OF THIS In recent years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses are located on the heater element housing and should read continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air flow problems or a grounded heating element. Follow the diagram below to see how to check the continuity of the switch, and look closely at the switch to see a fairly close idea of what you are looking for, ok



OR it could be a thermostat. Cycle and safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show continuity .

or lastly, it might be the Heat elements-Test heater element with an ohm meter. You will read continuity across a good element ( 8-12 ohms is an average element ).

IF you do not have an OHM-METER, then you can check these issues by following the directions below:

To check the thermal fuse - You can bypass the thermal fuse (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.

To check the thermal cut-out - You can bypass the thermal cut-out (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.


To check the thermostats for continuity - - You can bypass the thermostat (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.

To check the Element: Try removing element and physically looking at the element wire for a break in the wire.

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The problem is probably the thermal breaker at the back. There are several of them. Mounted on the heating elements casing.

A tumble dryer that isn't heating up at all needs checking with a continuity test meter. The most common cause is a heating element failure, or t.o.c's going open circuit. Some tumble dryers have heating elements that are easily accessible by removing the back panel, and can be tested for continuity or checked for obvious breakage. Others though have their heating elements inside, which aren't accessible without stripping the dryer down. Tumble dryer heating elements are always protected by thermal fuses which are usually simple devices with 2 wires connected. They can be tested for continuity with a test meter. In your case it is better that y ou call in an engineer to test it. Also overloading and blocked filters can cause the thermostat to cut out and they can also go with simple wear and tear. Check your service manual for spare parts etc

either your heating element or your thermostats are bad. on the heating element casing there are two thermostats. check the top one for continueity if it doesn't have continueity the change both thermostats. if they are good then check your heating element for continueity. after you get your dryer heating then clean out your vent system... if it's not venting properly then your dryer will take a long time to dry.

sounds like the heating element has gone south
if you open up the dryer you can check continuity across the element but make sure power is unplugged

Unplug the dryer from the wall. There are 2 wires connecting power at the heating element. Take one of these wires off, doesn't matter which one, but take at least one of the 2 off. Then put your meter probes across the terminal of the heating element where you took the 1 wire off and the other terminal of the heating element that still has a wire on it. Your meter will pretty much read full continuity if good, no reading at all if bad. Also check from one of these terminals of the element with one meter probe going to the metal frame of the unit. You should get no reading. If you do the element is shorted and would have likely tripped your house breaker.

Better to test a heating element for voltage with your meter like I described to you in your other question. I've seen heating elements read good when just doing a continuity test, however once voltage is applied and they start to heat they can expand and open up, thus not work, even though testing good when doing just a continuity test. Not always, but sometimes, it does happen enough to note to you.

I would say check voltage at the element to see if voltage is making it there. If it is, replace the element. If it isn't, track from the timer back to see where you are losing voltage.

if you have continuity your element is good. check continuity and the wires from the control ...if good you have a bad control...