Kenmore 24622 Top Load Washer Logo

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Posted on Feb 25, 2011

Kenmore washer model 110-24622300: Initially, would not spin + agitator not turning. Found two bra stiffener wires inside waterpump, jamming the impeller. Also, inspected motor's clutch & coupling, they're good. After re-assembly, agitator could be moved clock- & counter clockwise easily without any resistance, but still no spin. I could hear the motor making a humming sound; capacitor is OK. Could the motor be bad? Even though it has overload protection and the circuit breaker. I don't have a "megger" to test the windings of the motor; what's left? I ran out of ideas. Please help! Thanks, George.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 878 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 27, 2007

SOURCE: Series 70 Kenmore Washer Won't Agitate or Spin

baseball, sounds like a broken coupler, check out this post and post back, Catriver http://www.fixya.com/support/t144580-kenmore_8series_washer

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Anonymous

  • 5911 Answers
  • Posted on May 04, 2007

SOURCE: agitated with my agitator and spin cycle

Your problem could be with your transmission, which is located directly above the drive belt pulley under the wash tub. If they go bad, your motor will still function normally, but the wash tub will not spin or agitate. Now, another possible problem could be a nail or screw stuck in one of the wash basket holes pressing against the outer tub. I have personally seen this a couple of times. A dry wall screw or nail will stop the wash tub from spinning and cause the drive belt to smoke as the motor pulley turns, but the belt stays stationary. That could be the source of your smell. If you're a do-it-yourselfer or do a lot of carpentry work, you may have washed some clothes with a nail or screw in them. Inspect all the holes in the wash basket throughly. A nail or screw can easily be missed if your not looking for it. I hope this may help you.

Anonymous

  • 331 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 16, 2007

SOURCE: Kenmore wont agitate or spin

Mindurrs, your motor coupling has gone to the great beyond. Time for mourning has passed and now it must be replaced. The job takes about an hour and parts run about $10.00, ready? First, go to your local appliance parts retailer and purchase a coupling, part #285753. You'll need this for repairs. UNPLUG THE WASHER!!! Standing in front of the washer, you'll see two screws on either side of the control panel... remove these then flip the control panel over. Now, toward the right side, you'll see a wire harness that plugs into the top of the top panel, disconnect this. Now, on either side of the top panel, you'll see two brass colored clips. Take a screwdriver and poke it into the hole, use it as a pry bar. Pry the handle of the screwdriver toward the wall behind the washer, the clip will pop out. Now tilt the entire cabinet of the washer toward you to about a 45 degree angle then lift it out of there and set it aside out of the way for now. OK, now we're into the guts of the washer... Look below and in the center, you'll see the drain pump (it has 2 big hoses attached). Behind that, you'll see the motor... that's what you'll be taking off. On the right side of the motor, you'll see the electrical connections. Remove the long white one from the motor. (CAUTION!!! THIS NEXT STEP MUST BE DONE, OTHERWISE PERSONAL INJURY MAY RESULT!!!) You'll see a black round thing mounted to the motor on the right hand side, this is the capacitor. It has 2 red wires on it. (It's basically a 120 volt battery that is just waiting for you to touch it so it can shock you, badly) THIS MUST BE DISCHARGED (voltage drained off) BEFORE CONTINUING. Remove the 2 wires using insulated needle nose pliers. Now, discharge the cap by touching both terminals of the cap at the same time with your needle nose pliers. This will discharge the capacitor so it's safe to handle. Now, above and below the motor, you'll see 2 clips mounted on it, remove the screws that keep these clips in place then (with a flat head screwdriver) pry the clips off the motor. The motor and pump will drop out of there. Rotate the whole thing off to the left (with the hoses still attached to the pump). Now you can see the broken coupling (compare the old one and the new one). Pry the old pieces off the motor shaft and the transmission shaft and throw 'em away. Install the new coupling (notice the semi-triangular shape of the inside of the plastic coupling? I use my screwdriver handle... poke the handle into the coupling, place the coupling squarely on the shaft, then tap [don't BANG] it home with a hammer) and rebuild in the reverse order of dis-assembly! Sounds complicated, but it's not. I've done a thousand of these and it took me longer to type this than it would have for me to do it for you! And, for what it's worth, you have a good washer there. It's actually made by Whirlpool, and well worth the repair.

Anonymous

  • 125 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 14, 2008

SOURCE: kenmore 90 series washer

most likely the agitator dogs are bad. if the agitator engages clockwise and free spins counter clockwise they are good, if it slips they are bad. remove the bolt in the center of the agitator, take off cap or dispenser and remove the inner cap first. pull out the agitator, put on the floor, stand on the base of the agitator and pull up on the upper part to separate, take out the dog holder and replace dogs. Most appliance repair shops should have part on hand for about 5-6 dollars. part number 80040-fsp.

Anonymous

  • 686 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 01, 2009

SOURCE: kenmore washer will not spin in rinse cycle

I thought I had posted you a solution but not sure if you have gotten it. Anyway here I go again. To inspect your coupling you need to drop the pump and the motor so that you can get a good look at the coupling it consists of 3 pieces. Go to www.repairclinic.com enter model number and click on the first part you see to get additional images. If any of the prongs are broken replace the entire unit. You can call me at 417-926-0106 if you'd like.

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Washing machine very noise when it's on the spin!

failing bearings at the top of the gear box and on the inside of the gear box. check out the repair price and the shaft seal availability as it may be cheaper to get a new machine. Remove agitator first and see it there is any items underneath the agitator such as--- money --bra wires ---washers etc
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I think a wire is stuck under the agitator, the wire is missing out of a bra

If you cant pull it out with pliers, try lifting the agitator off by rocking and pulling upward.
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Washer won't agitate. New transmission...new timer.

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Top load, direct drive Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a reversing motor.

It turns one way for agitating and reverses for draining and spinning.

It sounds as if either the motor is shot or one of the connectors is bad.

As a place to start, see the Whirlpool Service manuasl (with wiring diagrams) for their top load, direct drive washers.

WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

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Agitator does not turn ..... you can hold on to & it doesn't turn in wash cycle

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (110.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

If you move the timer to the spin cycle and the washer drains and spins, the motor coupler (A common replacement part) is OK.

This points to one of two possible solutions.

First, I'd remove the agitator(s) and look inside at the splines inside the agitators and at the splines on the main agitator shaft.

Here is a description of how to remove the agitators. Your washer may be a bit different but the Sears site should help to determine how to do it.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=136&osCsid=7a980a8b05b84ff3b7ee1c8ba46e2ae8

If yoy have a two piece agitator and only the top section doesn't agitate, the problem is likely the agitator "dogs" as described in the illustrations.

If the Agitator splines are worn or damaged, You'll have to replace the agitator.

If the splines on the transmission agitator shaft are worn, you'll probably need a new or rebuilt transmission.

In addition, see the following Whirlpool / Kenmore service manual and parts list for their commercial washers (consumer models are basically the same).

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf



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Kenmore series 70 washer will only fill with water.

I recently had this problem. It was found that the main drive belt broke and the washer would fill but not spin, agitate or drain. I replaced the belt and everything worked again. A defective or disconnected cover switch would also cause the same problem.

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make sure your pump is not clogged or jammed..that will stop the motor,,quick test,,pull pump off and start unit in wash,,or spin if unit is empty..onthejob
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WILL NOT SPIN OR PUMP WATER OUT

took pump out there was a wire (under wire from bra) stuck in the propeller removed it put pump back on works fine now
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Kenmore 70 series

Okay...I'm a little confused on your symptoms. You initially said it fills, but doesn't agitate or spin, but drains.

Then, you finished with the washer filling, no agitate or spin, but now doesn't drain.

Which one is it?

The symptoms you describe are usually associated with the following:

1. Fills, may or may not agitate, won't spin or drain - lid switch.
2. Fills, may or may not agitate, won't spin, but still drains - motor coupling.
3. Fills, may or may not agitate, won't spin or spins slow - gear case.
4. Fills, agitates, spins, but does not drain – water pump.

NOTE: These are the more common failure items with these symptoms.

Double check the lid switch by opening and closing the lid. You should hear a clicking noise to indicate the switch is working. The switch is located under the top panel along the wash tub rim on the right-hand side. If not, check to make sure the lid strike (small plastic piece on the lid itself) is in place. This activates the lid switch when the lid is closed. Also, check the mounting screws along the rim (there are two of them) to see if they are tight.

If the motor coupling were bad, the washer would still drain, but there would be a rattling sound as the washer tries to spin or agitate.

If you need replacement parts, go to searspartsdirect.com and type in your model number in the "Search by Model Number" window. The lid switch can be found under the "Top and Cabinet" heading as item number 11 (part #3949238). Instructions on how to replace are located at the following link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385199-replacing_lid_switch_whirlpool_top

If you wish to replace the motor coupling, the part can be found under the “Brake/Clutch/Gearcase/Motor/Pump” heading as item number 13 (part #285753A). If you need instructions on how to replace, just follow this link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385250-replacing_motor_coupling_kenmore_top

Now, there’s a couple of ways to drain the washer. If it’s a simple lid switch problem, you don’t need to drain the washer to replace the switch. With a broken switch repaired, the washer will run and drain by itself. However, if you wish to drain the tub you can use a shop vac to pull a vacuum on the drain hose. This may take a few times depending on the size of the shop vac. These wash tubs typically have about a 35 gallon capacity. If you do not own a shop vac, you can by-pass the lid switch by jumpering the two BLACK wires at the lid switch connector that is connected to the console. CAUTION: Make sure you UNPLUG the washer before jumpering, then plug back in.

I hope this information is helpful to you. If I’m wrong about the symptoms, please post back and update me on what the washer is or is not doing, so I can assist you further.
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