I have a stove with the oven door that just slams shut and does not catch partway open when removing hot dishes. Is this the way the glass top was made or is there an issue that can be fixed. I have gotten burned badly because of this issue.
a 6ya Repairman can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Repairman (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
the oven needs two things 1, gas or electricity plus 2, thermocouple.
If gas try lighting manually by removing oven bottom plate of oven when possible. That puts everything out in the open. If it does not open that way go to the bottom broiler opening and light manually.
this will tell you where the problem is.
Electric oven, go to fuse box and shut off supply line them turn back o n. This is easiest fix and resets the stove. On electric stove there may be an interlock that shuts oven off when the door is open.
Hope this gets you started!!!
Door pins are a common failure on that series of Blazer/S10's. Also, another point of contention that the door faces is a sticky latch. Basically, the door latch re-latches itself and when you shut the door into the catch, it slams into it and bounces off. An easy fix is a 3 part cocktail of brake parts cleaner. Open and shut the latch with a screw driver acting as the catch and your interior door handle a few times. P'Blaster, open and shut the door a few times with the screwdriver acting as the catch. Finally, a good shot of white lithium grease. Open and shut the door with a screwdriver as the catch several times. Once you feel it is un-stuck, actually close and open the door several times. If you notice the door rising every time it catches, you MUST replace the door pins (cheap fix). If the door still has issues, replace the door latch (and since you're in there, do some PM and replace the actuator as well).
Try a) Lubricate the latches. I sprayed wd-40, you probably can use vegetable oil. Both sides, latch and receptor. Just doing this may fix your problem. (I have to admit I did part b first before trying this so I am not sure, but after doing this, it made my part b fix work even better)
b) Failing this, I found opening it up (t-20 torx screw driver) and tying a wire in the top hole, through the bottom latch body and fastening to a bottom hole of the microwave frame to force the mechanism to stay in place. You want to pull it towards the oven cavity. This will keep it from bending out of alignment. I found that it is only the bottom latch that has to catch for the microwave to sense the door is closed.
Remove from any
power source, remove the cover of the cabinet. Slacken off the clamp
mechanism and ease the clamp over the guide to allow the door to
open. The door may be easily
adjusted by slackening off the screws that clamp the door
catch/actuators in place whilst holding the door closed and then
tightening the screws. The rear of the door may be adjusted by
slackening the lower door hinge screws and adjusting as required. I
hope that helps.
!st thing to do is to make sure the catch latch on the door is properly lubed.If it is and you still have problems,then the small catch that is on the car,needs to be adjusted.
Open the door and look where the door catch is.On the car.It,s a plate with a u-shaped metal rod.This needs too be moved outwards by about 3mm.It's held by 2 x head screws.They need to be loosened,adjust the plate,and then tightened back up very tight.
If the car door has been opened very quickly by say,the wind or slammed open,then this can alter the door alighnment.
Hope this helps you
If you could provide some more information, then I may be able to help. What part of the oven is causing the problem, i.e. top or bottom door. If the doors don't shut properly then this may cause the hot air to escape. If it is one of the doors, is it sitting square in the frame?
open the door about 30 degrees, lift straight up to release the hinges, this will allow you to remove the door. you will be able to assess the hinges from there. most likely the hinges are just out of alignment
Sounding like your hot surface ignitor is getting bad. What I would like for you to do is open the oven and take the bottom panel off. This is so you can see the hot surface ignitor. Turn the oven on and look at the hot surface ignitor it is down on the bottom right next to the burner assembly. Does it start to glow and turn cherry red? This ignitor isn't too hard to replace couple of small screws and two wires. Will have to cut the wires so disconnect the unit from the 120 volt plug. Now if it starts to glow and get cherry red hot then the gas valve is sticking and it is the one going bad. That is a little tougher to replace. Turn the gas off at the source and get your wrenches unscrew the gas valve small space so if you want remove the door by just pulling it off the hinges.
If unit is old and you don't like it anyway maybe santa would be good
to you and replace the stove oven. The gas valve is about 60 bucks or
so and hot surface is about 20 bucks. let me know how it turns out.. ken