What yr. had 1/2 lights peek a boo lights - 1984 Nissan 300ZX

stuck on before and after, very good evidence, rarely told.
ever see it work right before or buy car broken like this???????
history matters huge as do wiring hacks by others.(trailer hitch)
EVEN SIMPLE THINGS ARE CALIBRATED
THE SERVICE MANUAL COVERS THEM ALL
do not break the brakes.
lots of causes (any real shop can fix it !)
you posted to the blind folks. cant see under that dash.
causes;

1. wrong switch
2. installed wrong,
3. MC installed wrong or is wrong master cylinder, put there.
4. pedal springs missing or bad. or pedal parts missing or broken .

now lets read your manual for switch swaps
what does it say.


the big paste. steps out and back in both


Do not pull on the connector or on the harness with excessive force to disengage the switch wiring. Connector and/or wiring harness damage will result.

1. Detach the wiring harness connector from the BOO switch by using a small pick or prytool to lift the connector retaining tab up, then pulling the connector from the switch.

Since the side plate of the BOO switch nearest the brake pedal is slotted, it is not necessary to remove the brake master cylinder pushrod and one spacer from the brake pedal pin.

1. Disengage the hairpin retainer, then slide the BOO switch, pushrod, nylon washers and bushing away from the brake pedal. Detach the BOO switch from the bracket by sliding it up or down.

To install:
WARNING
Only use hairpin retainers specifically designed for the BOO switch.

1. Position the BOO switch so that the U-shaped side is nearest the brake pedal and directly over the pin. Slide the switch down until it has trapped the master cylinder pushrod and blade bushing between its side plates.
2. Press the BOO switch and pushrod firmly toward the brake pedal arm, then assemble the outside white nylon washer to the pin.
3. Install the hairpin retainer to securely hold the entire assembly.

The BOO switch wiring harness must have sufficient slack to allow brake pedal movement. After attaching the connector to the switch, ensure that there is enough play in the harness.

1. Insert the wiring harness connector into the BOO switch connector until the retaining tab is fully engaged.
2. Have an assistant sit in the vehicle and apply the brake pedal while you watch the brake lamps for proper function. The brake lights should illuminate even with the ignition switch in the OFF position. If they do not illuminate when the pedal is depressed, there is a problem within the switch or circuit.

as you can see it is not just snap on /off deal.

cars this old I have seen and repaired
bad pedal cracks, parts crack and fail and I weld them back with TIG.
things to see, there behind the firewall MC spot? (place)up top far.
the brake pedal top push rod pushes the MC rear piston!
and must have some play there, pedal UP. if not car is a super danger to drive like that. the MC must fully retract or MC fails.
why it fails can only be known eyes on hands on by a real tech.
the brake lamp failing can just be a side show, just warning gee
somethings is very wrong hear or the switch bad, or not installed correctly
see?
MC means brake master cylinder. rear. and most not leak either
best is let a real brake man (person) inspect it all. and be safe.
also some brands brake switch new in a box
open box has instructions, that many include, how to calibrate it.

If brake light switch (down near brake pedal arm) fails, then the car will not allow you to shift into gear. [ And you may not have break lights either (!) ] This switch serves as the safety interlock as well - to make sure your foot is on the brakes before it will allow you to shift out of P - Park, and in to D drive, or R reverse. It was also a "FORD RECALL" on my car, a long long time ago, to have that switch replaced - as it was failing early / a lot on many of these cars. BOTTOM LINE - you must get the switch replaced. HOWEVER - in the mean time, you can probably get the car into gear by doing something like this (from memory, hope I have it correct for you): with engine OFF / not running. 1. Turn ignition to second position - Click Click - the RUN position, but do not start the engine. 2. Put car in Neutral or N. (hold brake down so car won't move) 3. Now start engine. Now will allow you to shift from N into D - drive or R- reverse. [ that's just from memory, long time ago - but I think it will work something like that ].
You may not have brake lights working ... so best to fix ASAP.
Also, shifting like this is a pain in the ... so plan to drive very soon to mechanic / or FORD Dealership and fix ASAP. Tell them you KNOW it was a RECALL on this vehicle - so hopefully they should fix it for you for little or no cost. Hope this helps. cheers!

What is the source of power? Headlight circuit? . Installer boo boo? or possibly wiring is incorrect? Poor radio grounding possible Reccommend returning to installer before radio is damaged in order to preserve the warranty.

Carefully remove the dash bezel with the pry-n-peek technique. You pry on the plastic bezel gently (bezel at or above room temp), just enough (about 1/8-1/4") and peek behind it to see what kind of clip is used and how best to release it. Keep in mind to look all around the perimeter of the bezel for screws. Also, plastic in Ford's tend to be brittle and weak, just saying..

oxygen sensor is located in the exhaust pipe just as it leaves the engine, it monitors the exhaust gas as it exits the engine, look down between the back of engine and the firewall. peek-a-boo ! some cars have (2) one @ the exh. pipe before the CATalitc converter. use a 7/8 " wrench, wd 40 will help also. tight is tight too tight is broke.

Your Boo switch is open. Look for the brake pedal pivoting point, which is going to be almost under the dash board. The Boo switch is attached to the pedal, you should be able to see the plug and wires going to it. Disconnect the plug and remove the switch from the pedal assembly. Replace it. That should take care of both problems.

Video vee ch cheek fh thumb

If you have 1 sticking up proud to the others you appear to have Boo Booed. Gently remove the offender. Examine the Plug Thread and you will notice an Out of Sync twist across the leading thread throw. Use an old plug with some grease on to recut the Port access thread. Take out a good threaded plug, which is accessible and with a visual on the job, ease the damaged plug into that port with a film of oil on the threads. The good plug remaining put in where the original was boo booed.
Any problems, come back!
Regards,DT

change the sensors please! then erase the memory from the E.C.U using the same scan tool!

only two are connected to the radiator to provide cooling the third is a vent due to oil vapor buid up!!!! leave it alone