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I have heard of people doing that and getting away with it - such is the capacity of the modern domestic ring circuit. Certainly no one should be doing it and no one with electrical knowledge would condone or recommend such a thing as if you didn't get away with it, it could burn your house down without blowing a fuse or tripping any safety devices.
The cables carrying the current to the sockets and light fittings traverse many flammable things between the power outlet and the electricity meter...
In an emergency you could fit a plug and use the cooker but never, ever more than one boiling ring and one simmer ring OR the grill OR perhaps even the oven if it is a conventional oven.
If you do decide to take the chance I advise you most strongly never to trust anyone else to operate the cooker and never to leave it unattended...
A large boiling ring is typically 1500/2000 watts and a small simmering ring is typically 800/1000 watts. I can't tell you what the consumption of the other equipment might be but it should be easy to discover as the manufacturer might have a downloadable manual on the website or you could try googling replacement heating elements.
You should have a cooker outlet installed as soon as possible.
Probably the element has failed. If it is a fan oven, the element is around the fan at the back of the oven. You take the covering plate off, and then remove the element usually attached with a couple of screws. Turn power off first!
Check continuity of element with a voltmeter. If it has failed, they are usually available on-line
Assuming it is an electric built in or built under oven, these are commonly fitted into a dedicated cupboard (oven housing) that matches the other kitchen units and typically little or no facility for ventilation is provided.
Electric ovens are usually so well insulated and covered with reflective foil the need for ventilation is minimal, especially when a standard size oven is fitted into the correct standard sized housing as it will provide an air-space of an inch or more all around.
It can be expected the housing near the top of the oven will become warm after a while and the shelf above likely to become warm enough to soften a candle but if it gets hot enough to actually melt a candle I think that is rather too hot. The addition of additional insulation and reflective material should improve matters greatly.
I suggest you approach the guy who fitted the oven if it was professionally fitted. It would have been his responsibility to only fit a suitable appliance and if additional ventilation was required he should have advised you.
I believe I have seen some oven housings with a slim grille over the oven and it is probable there would have also been a slot cut at the rear and perhaps a short piece of trunking to carry warm air away from the space directly above the oven.
Preparing the units - Fig. 1
? The safe operation of this appliance can only be guaranteed if
it has been installed to a professional standard in accordance
with these installation instructions. The installer is liable for
damage incurred as a result of incorrect installation.
? Fitted units must be heat-resistant up to 90 °C, and
neighbouring unit fronts up to 70 °C.
? Cut-out work on the units and worktop should be performed
before fitting the appliances. Remove any shavings or the function of the electrical components may be impaired. ? Caution during installation. Parts that are accessible during installation may have sharp edges. Wear protective gloves to prevent cuts ? The power socket for the appliance must either be located in the hatched area B or else away from the installation space. ? A gap of 5 mm is required between the appliance and surrounding unit fronts. ? Secure freestanding units to the wall using a standard bracket C. Appliance under the worktop - Fig. 1 There must be a ventilation cut-out made in the intermediate floor of the surround unit. Secure the worktop to the fitted units. If a fitted oven is to be built in under a hob, pay attention to the hob installation instructions. Appliance in a tall unit - Fig. 2 The appliance may also be installed in a tall unit. There must be a gap between the intermediate floors and the mounting wall of approx. 20 mm in order to provide ventilation to the oven. Only fit the appliance at a height where removing baking trays does not present a problem. Corner installation Fig. 3 To ensure that the appliance door can be opened in the case of corner installation, take account of dimension D. Dimension E is dependent on the thickness of the unit front under the handle. Connecting the appliance to the power supply Only allow a licenced professional to connect the appliance. National regulations apply as well as those of the local electricity supplier. The appliance must be disconnected from the power supply for all installation work. The appliance corresponds to protection class I and may only be operated with a protective earth connection. Power cord: Type H05 VVF or higher rated. The yellow/green wire for the PE connection must be 10 mm longer than the other wires on the appliance side. During installation, an all-pole isolating switch with a contact gap of at least 3 mm must be present, or the appliance must be connected via a three-pin earthed plug. This must be accessible after installation. Contact protection must be ensured by the installation. Identify the phase and neutral conductors in the socket. Incorrect connection may cause damage to the appliance. Only connect as per the connection diagram. See the rating plate for the voltage. Position the appliance in front of the units in readiness for connection. The connecting cable must be sufficiently long. Securing the appliance Fig. 4 ? Fully insert the appliance and centre it. ? Screw the appliance into place. ? The gap between the worktop and the appliance must not be closed by additional battens. Removal Disconnect the appliance from the power supply. Undo the securing screws. Raise the appliance slightly and pull it out completely
It is not a must that you fit it in a housing, as it actually stands on the floor, but it looks much better fitted into a purpose built cabinet.
If it were a built in one, then you would have to have proper built in unit for it to fit in.
You need to check with your hardware store and get a fitting compatible with your fitting on the stove.This will have to be fitted to the wall pipe but I stress that this should only be carried out by a registered gas fitter.