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if everything else works and only no heat it's probably the heating element. you can find instructions on the Internet on how to access the heating element. Test it with a multimeter on Ohms (resistance) setting. Touch the two probes of the multimeter to the two legs of the heating element. If the meter shows no continuity, element should be replaced. How that helps.
This caused by one of two possible things. Either you have poor air flow, or a clogged vent preventing air from flowing freely and therefor making the dryer short cycle, which in turn will take you two or three times to dry yor clothes, or the heating element has gone bad, burnt in half and is making contact with the case to provide it just enough power to barely heat. The second thing is a very rare occurance. I would turn the dryer on, find out where the air vents out to, and with the dryer running, go to where it vents and check to see if there is a strong flow of air. 9 times out of 10 that is going to be your problem. Another way to check air flow is to just pull the vent off the back and let the dryer run and see if your clothes dry faster. If you do it that way and they still take a long time to dry, then you'll probably need to replace the heating element
Bad heating element or bad thermo fuse.
You will have to unplug the dryer and remove the back to access the heating element.
The thermo fuse is located on the side of the heating element.
If you don't have a meter to test the element and thermo fuse or just don't know how simply remove them from the dryer and take them to your local appliance repair shop and they can test them for you.
The heating element is located at the rear of the dryer behind the rear access panel. Disconnect power then remove the screws attaching the rear access panel to the cabinet and remove the panel.
Your dryer seems not heating but it doesn't mean the heating element is busted. The
problem is obviously in the heating circuit which is basically composed
of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling
thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The most common part that
causes the dryer not to heat is the thermal cut-off and/or the
high-limit thermostat. Verify this
condition by bypassing the said components. Click on the link below for the detailed procedures. Troubleshooting Whirlpool and Whirlpool-Made Electric Dryers Running But Not Heating
Hello there Here is a couple of links that will help you replace the heating element along with some manufactures that can also help ok? Best regardss michael
How to Replace Your Electric Dryer'sHeatingElement
How to Replace Your Whirlpool, Kenmore, Roper, or Kitchenaid. Electric Dryer'sHeatingElement... 3 styles of heatingelements in use for these dryers. ...www.davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm - Cached
How to Replace the HeatingElement in A Whirlpool Dishwasher
How to article - how to replace the heatingelement in a whirlpool dishwasher. When your dishwasher heatingelement goes bad, your dishes will not dry quickly. Before...ehow.com/how_5337380_replace-heating-element-whirlpool-di...
I looked up your heating element and it appears to be a plain jane variety from 50 years ago until now. It is mounted on the rear of the dryer and accessed by removing the rear dust cover. If you have a meter you could check the part for continuity if not then yank it out and take it to the parts store for verification. Part number: 279247,
279248, 279249, 279598, 279698, 337378, 337429, 337430, 339655, 340468,
340469, 348773, 348774, 349542, 349543, 349544, 685182, 685492, 688628,
689805, 696324, 20010234, 20103149, 279455, 279218, 279410, 279411,
279478, 349545, 349546, 660933, 660965, 660982, 689980, 690241, 690983,
691724, 692758, 693061, 693062, 693295, 693297, 693298, 693299, 693300,
696579, 697290.New #4311960. LOL
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