Question about Ovens
Hi there - I am re-doing an old 1920's(?) cooktop. I first took it to the best appliance place in town - they did not do a good job on it at all. It worked, but barely.
When I got it back from them, we replaced both the bake and broil elements of the oven and everything worked pretty good, except the oven wouldn't preheat. I then had the old burner section removed and replaced it with a new gas cooktop (works great!). We had to disconnect the oven and all the wiring to get the gas cooktop mounted onto the stove body. Now I am trying to re-wire the oven and am flunking badly!
The old oven had a oven thermostat knob asembly (with the sensing probe that went inside the oven and a standard knob to adjust the temperature), a selector switch and a thermostat regulator with a wheel on the outside of the stove. I think the appliance repair firm disconnected the old thermostat regulator and just put in a new oven thermostat assembly, because of the phillips screws in the selector switch and the oven thermostat.
So... now to my questions:
a 6ya Repairman can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US.
click here to Talk to a Repairman (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Hi Jeff. You should have a wiring diagram with the range. Check for an envelope on the back of the range, inside the back splash, or taped to the inside side wall of the range if you remove the lower drawer. That all being said, first check to see if the start or stop time knobs on the timer have been pushed in (and possibly turned). If the clock runs, it will clear this out within 12 hours, but on these old ranges often times the clock no longer runs. Make sure these knobs are turned until they have "popped" out or you won't get the necessary voltage where you need it. Secondly, when a bake element burns out, it can cause damage to the electrical contacts in the oven selector switch (part number WB22X5122 ) which can be tested with an ohm meter if you can find the electrical diagram. Also, the oven thermostat (part number WB21X5320 ) can be damaged in the same way. Unfortunately, these parts for these old units are not very cheap.
The little bit of heat you are getting in your oven now is most likely only from the 120 volts going to the broiler element when in Bake. During Bake, your bake element should get 240 volts (until thermostat is satisfied). Setting to Broil should give 240 to the broil element.
Posted on Dec 14, 2008
my wife has arthitis in her hands and the touch screen does not work when she touches it . otherwise it works fine when i use it . is this a body temp problem .
Posted on Jun 21, 2009
You probably know this, but on an oven unit there has to be two different phases of 120 to make it work. Check the wires that attach to the oven unit to make sure that you have 240 when in oven mode. If you have only 120, find out which wire is not hot and trace it to its source. Is it miswired at the other end? Is it shorted to one of the broiler wires? Usually there is a schematic to show how the oven is wired. Check for anything that is common to both oven and broiler wires and make sure the wires are on the right terminals. With out seeing the sove it is hard to know what it going on. Hope that helps. Robin
Posted on Jun 10, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Dec 30, 2015 | GE Ovens
Mar 06, 2014 | Ovens
Aug 27, 2010 | Ovens
Oct 30, 2009 | GE JKP27 Electric Double Oven
Oct 18, 2009 | GE Profile JTP56 Electric Double Oven
Oct 06, 2009 | GE Ovens
May 30, 2009 | GE Profile JTP18 Electric Single Oven
Apr 11, 2009 | Ovens
Jan 27, 2009 | Ovens
Dec 27, 2008 | Ovens
315 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!