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Wiring of an old GE/Hotpoint Oven

Hi there - I am re-doing an old 1920's(?) cooktop. I first took it to the best appliance place in town - they did not do a good job on it at all. It worked, but barely.
When I got it back from them, we replaced both the bake and broil elements of the oven and everything worked pretty good, except the oven wouldn't preheat. I then had the old burner section removed and replaced it with a new gas cooktop (works great!). We had to disconnect the oven and all the wiring to get the gas cooktop mounted onto the stove body. Now I am trying to re-wire the oven and am flunking badly!
The old oven had a oven thermostat knob asembly (with the sensing probe that went inside the oven and a standard knob to adjust the temperature), a selector switch and a thermostat regulator with a wheel on the outside of the stove. I think the appliance repair firm disconnected the old thermostat regulator and just put in a new oven thermostat assembly, because of the phillips screws in the selector switch and the oven thermostat.
So... now to my questions:

  1. I cannot use the original thermostat regulator that came with the stove (it is right over the stove burner), shouldn't the oven work with just the selector switch and the oven thermostat assembly?
  2. While I thought I was super careful to mark all the wires, nothing turns on when I wire it. I have used the OHM meter and everything seems to check out, so I might have mis-connected the wires somewhere. How do I know where the wires go? There is no wiring diagram that can be read - it is too faded. Right now, the red and black wires from the power source are going to the oven thermostat assembly. The terminals are numbered 1,2,3,4. A yellow and a blue wire go from the thermostat assembly to the selector switch. The selector switch has 7 terminals - B,C,X,W,Y and two unmarked. One wire from the bake element goes to B, one wire from the broil element goes to C, and two blue and yellow combined wires (from the bake and broil elements) go to a single unmarked terminal. The X is emply, the W has a blue wire going to the thermostat, and the Y has a yellow wire going to the power source. The last terminal is unmarked and it has a yellow wire going to the thermostat. Does this wiring set up make sense? This is now I marked the wires.
  3. When I was disconnecting the thermostat from the front of the stove, the piece fell - Does the copper wire wrap around the piece that turns?
Thank you for any help you can provide - I really need it.

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6 Suggested Answers

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: replace upper grill element in a old GE wall oven

Replaced selector switch...problem solved.

Posted on Dec 05, 2008


MNTECH
  • 1543 Answers

SOURCE: GE J BP27G R1AD Oven Not Heating Fully

Hi Jeff. You should have a wiring diagram with the range. Check for an envelope on the back of the range, inside the back splash, or taped to the inside side wall of the range if you remove the lower drawer. That all being said, first check to see if the start or stop time knobs on the timer have been pushed in (and possibly turned). If the clock runs, it will clear this out within 12 hours, but on these old ranges often times the clock no longer runs. Make sure these knobs are turned until they have "popped" out or you won't get the necessary voltage where you need it. Secondly, when a bake element burns out, it can cause damage to the electrical contacts in the oven selector switch (part number WB22X5122 ) which can be tested with an ohm meter if you can find the electrical diagram. Also, the oven thermostat (part number WB21X5320 ) can be damaged in the same way. Unfortunately, these parts for these old units are not very cheap.
The little bit of heat you are getting in your oven now is most likely only from the 120 volts going to the broiler element when in Bake. During Bake, your bake element should get 240 volts (until thermostat is satisfied). Setting to Broil should give 240 to the broil element.

Posted on Dec 14, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: JTP18WD01WW no broli, no bake panel works

my wife has arthitis in her hands and the touch screen does not work when she touches it . otherwise it works fine when i use it . is this a body temp problem .

Posted on Jun 21, 2009

  • 31 Answers

SOURCE: I have a kenmore electric stove/oven model

You probably know this, but on an oven unit there has to be two different phases of 120 to make it work. Check the wires that attach to the oven unit to make sure that you have 240 when in oven mode. If you have only 120, find out which wire is not hot and trace it to its source. Is it miswired at the other end? Is it shorted to one of the broiler wires? Usually there is a schematic to show how the oven is wired. Check for anything that is common to both oven and broiler wires and make sure the wires are on the right terminals. With out seeing the sove it is hard to know what it going on. Hope that helps. Robin

Posted on Jun 10, 2010

  • 906 Answers

SOURCE: Neff B1721 oven

good day,
hope this link below will solve your problem.

kitchen appliances

Posted on Jul 31, 2010

kebah
  • 681 Answers

SOURCE: We own a Defy Gemini

Visit http://www.macspares.co.za for Defy Masterchef oven diagram.
You can also download owner's manual at http://www.defy.co.za
Regards.

Posted on Jun 16, 2011

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