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Hi,
Try this. Remove the power nozzle from the lower wands. Remove the wands from the hose handle. Snap the power nozzle directly to the hose. Make sure all switches are turned on and try it. If the power nozzle now works, there's an issue with one or both of the wands. If the power head does NOT work, you've secluded the problem to the power head. With that being said and although it could be a power nozzle switch or a wire that disconnected inside, it's most likely the power nozzle Elbow assembly wiring that's worn out. This has been an issue with this model after so many years and you simply need to replace the Elbow assembly.
I hope this helps and let me know if I can be of any more help. [email protected]. Hope this helped. :-)
Although it could be a multitude of things that keep the power nozzle from operating properly, the most likely is, since it's an Epic series, Is that the power nozzle elbow assembly needs replaced as the fine wires and top of the elbow tend to break/short after 5-10 yrs. of use.
It's also very well possible that the power nozzle reset switch or hose switch at top of handle is defective. Try plugging the power nozzle directly into the hose handle assembly and turn machine on. If the power nozzle still doesn't work, it's definitely a problem directly with the power nozzle.
Go to Google and search for make and model. Sears parts should come up and you should be able to order from there. You may have to buy a larger assembly.
The black residue is probably coming from the drive belt that goes from the motor to the beater bar. Lay the machine on it's back, and remove the foot plate (or cover plate for the belt) and check the belt for wear.
Resolution for Quick Connect Power Nozzle: If you're vacuum is 2001 prior, chances are one of the two contacts in the power nozzle elbow have let go.
The elbow can be disassembled by removing the two screw covers. You will need a flat head and small star. Also, you need to release the retaining clip on the back of the elbow. You will have to remove the elbow completely if it needs replacement. You will then have to remove the top cover of your power nozzle. That is easily done by removing all screws in the bottom base of your nozzle. Once you remove your cover you should see 2-4 screws holding in the elbow
When you remove the cover, you will see metal contact rings and two contacts. If one of them isn't contacting the ring your power nozzle will not turn on. You can try shaping it back into place but from experience the new revised elbow that does away with that kind of connectivity is a lot more effective. The new elbow runs about $40-$60. Between eBay and Aerus Electrolux Dealer.
The model number will either be located on the bottom or the back of the machine on a sticker that also contains the serial number. All vacuums have to have this sticker, and serial number information on the machine somewhere. On uprights it's usually on the back of the machine towards the bottom, or on the very bottom of the floor nozzle part. On canister vacuums the model number will either be found on the bottom of the canister, or on the bottom of the power nozzle.
hello... you might want to try checking the elbow or neck of the power nozzle for blockage. Remove the wand from the head and look through it. Also look through the wands . If there is no blockage, maybe there is a problem with you nozzle. Reattach all the parts and turn on the machine, turn on the power nozzle. Can you hear the other motor start? If so, check to see if the belt is turning. If it is not, and you definitely hear the secondary motor, then you need a belt. If it doesn't make any sound then, with the machine still running, press the button on the upper part of the power nozzle, this should reset your motor. I hope these tips helped ya, let me know, by giving feedback when asked. thank you, Rene (The Vacuum Doctor)
The deal with the Renny is that it runs off of circuit boards. Usually the problem of the main motor shutting on and off is caused by one of the Triac boards located inside the canister. Another problem could be the thermostat wire located on the inside of your motor itself. It's almost never the thermostat, so the triac board is most likely the issue.
As far as your power nozzle goes, the head eminating from the swivel body is in most cases due to an older design of the power nozzle. I would suggest investing in a new elbow assembly that includes a new swivel body as well as newer style of wiring that is proved to reduce arcing and heat production within the power nozzle.
In some cases, fixing the power nozzle will fix the problems you are experienceing with the main motor as the arcing happening in the power nozzle can in fact turn off your machine. So investing in a new elbow assembly for your power nozzle could in fact solve the problem in its entirety.
The height adjust mech. has 2 tabs, that you have to unlock, It also is easier when you tip the power head so as not to puit pressure on the Ht. Adj. wheels. Use a flat blade screwdriver and if you look down bertween the ht. adj. mech. and the elboe where the wire is, you should be able to see the 2 tabs, just pry it away form the elbow and it will come off. When you put it back on, make sure all wires are routed where they were and tip powerhead, it will snap into place.
the powerhead gets its power through a connector adjacent to the hose connection to the vacuum end. there's two wires embedded in the hose which make its way to the handle, pipe and powerhead. take apart the handle and see if you can read continuity from one end to the handle switch.
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