Apologies for my late reply.
I replaced the plug fuse and still no power at all. I have removed the top outer casing and there is a bit of blacking above where the cooling fins are located. I am loathe to start stripping down further as there is quite a lot crammed into this casing. I just wondered if there is an obvious place I can look, or is it blown for good? Also, I'm quite happy to take it to a repair specialist (live in Spain) but don't want to be faced with a huge bill if it's cheaper to buy something else. P.S. I don't use this with it's other units. I just use it in line with my TV, DVD and speakers as an amp. Jayne
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Be sure you unlug the amp before you do anything :) If you can get the lid off, perhapd you can check to see if there are any blown fuses. See what you can find and report back to me here if you like:- )
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With it unplugged take the top off and look inside. See if you can see any signs of damage and look for fuses. If the fuses are blown, you could replace them. But they are likely to go again. In which case you will have blown the power amp devices on the heat sink.
You have absolutely right, the typical audio level output for the tape is 775mVolts and the cd is about 1000mVolts(=1Volt). This is not a problem the audio input that you connect the cd player can handle the difference, but indeed there is an audible difference. I don't know your preamplifier (or integrated amp), but some models have a separate cd input with an input a little bit lower than the tape, tuner, aux e.t.c. Take a look if there is an input like this at your amp. A good idea also is to set the line out volume level at the cd a little bit lower (not available at all cd players), although after the power off -power on the level will come to default. In case you are familiar with soldering tools and connectors I could suggest you a simple schematic for an attenuator. If you desperately need an attenuator like this let me know to make a research for you.
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More than likely, the internal regulated power supply has gone bad. The power outlets going out are usually just straight wired from the incoming power source, and not run through the power supply. Good luck!
for 240 volt operation it is 3 amp. May be a 5 amp in the US(110v). Best bet is to take the fuse with you when you go to get a new one. just be sure to get the same type. If it has a T next to the rating, it is a time lag type. This is the important bit.
Dont think the wrong plugin hurt you. Is just the fickle finger of fate pointing at yo:)
All tubes should have a glow in them, the smaller ones can be a bit hard to see at times. A way to check is carefully check if it is getting hot, or at least as hot as the others. It can sometimes be a crook valve socket also. Depends on the age of the beast :) A bit of a wriggle, or a reposition in the socket can bring back the heater to one that is out from a dodgy socket. Only long term solution to a faulty socket is to replace it. I have a tiny file round that I clean em out with, but once they are crook, they give trouble. Good luck, hope you get it sorted. Let me know how you get on. Cheers mate!
I have scoured the net to get the info you need, but came up empty handed. I would take the back off the unit and work out what connections are what from tracing it out to the power supply. If you are not up with electronics, then that may not be an option. I have emailed (ref 080528-000007) my Behringer contact to get the info for you. Will post it back here shortly.
Hi There DEKCAT
Its very unusual for both channels to blow......
I suspect that there is a blown power fuse inside the case......
There are fuses sometime located on the outside rear of the case and these can be easily checked to determine if they are blown..If you find one is blown please replace with the corrrect rated fuse,..... its current rating wil be on a small label on the case outside rear. like 1.0amp, or 1.5amp etc...
If you need to go inside the case please ensure the power plug is removed from the wall socket first.
You will find small glass fuses in the DC power supply feeds and probably one of these has blown, once again replace with the correct rated fuse.
Im not sure if your amplifier is a FET type or a large 32-40 pin IC type as if these are blown you will need a service person to do the replacement...
Please note there is a small relay that clicks 20seconds after turn on at the switch....if this click is not happening then there is problems with the timer circuit or the relay itself...
This relay controls the output to the speakers and as such stops all the sound output if its not working...so the first thing is to check all fuses, if they are OK then check the Relay operations....