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Washing machine comes up E9 on screen and wont work

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5 Suggested Answers

SOURCE: dwd f1011 washing machine, error codes E2&E9, machine not working

the E9 error code problem could be with door switch wiring, the door switch or the control board.but E2 problem occurs when a button is pressed for more than 30 seconds.Check for any such button else the problem is surely with the control board.

Posted on Jan 11, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: My NEC NW 652 washing machine is showing an E9 fault

E9 means the waterlevel sensor is defective or the pipe connected to it is faulty.

Posted on Jan 27, 2009

  • 4090 Answers

SOURCE: NEC NW 892 Errror E9

This error is related to the pressure sensor


check connections or replce pressure sensor

Check at the water source end of the hose and make sure the filter is not occluded. Both hot and cold. more likely the cold side as the hot water may disolve the particles more easily.

If all else seems good you will have to replace the sensor

Posted on Aug 01, 2009

TheMobilian
  • 8205 Answers

SOURCE: When putting washing machine on,

Location of Duet controls with top removed:
themobilian_673.jpg

Posted on Jan 04, 2011

  • 6277 Answers

SOURCE: My NEC, NW-452 model washing

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
(sorry, do not know your particular washer but try this - it's a VERY common problem!)
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Here are my complete and generic guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Posted on Jun 18, 2011

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This error is related to the pressure sensor


check connections or replce pressure sensor

Check at the water source end of the hose and make sure the filter is not occluded. Both hot and cold. more likely the cold side as the hot water may disolve the particles more easily.

If all else seems good you will have to replace the sensor

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Kenmore Elite HE4T Washing Machine Diagnostic Test Didn't complete and clothes aren't spun as dry as in the past I have a Kenmore Elite HE4T washing machine and I noticed that recently it isn't getting all of the clothes completely dry from the final spin cycle. Thus, the dryer has to run through two cycles to get the clothes dry. I did a bunch of research and made sure there weren't any kinks or blockages in the drain lines; and opened up the bottom of the washer and cleaned out the drain cleanout. I found a few pennies, but everything seemed to be working ok. I ran a load and had the bottom open so that I could make sure the motor, drain and belt were all working properly. The drain does get the water out of the washer, so the clothes aren't sitting in water, they just don't seem to be spun as fast or as long as they used to. I always put it on the "extra high" spin setting no matter which type of load I run. So, I found a way to run the diagnostic test on the washer and it went through C0-C5 (the agitation step) and all worked great, until it wouldn't come out of C5 after at least 10 minutes and go thru C6-C8. I had to cancel the diagnostic test and hit the "drain and spin" button to get all of the water back out of the washer. BTW, the "drain and spin" seems to get the clothes a bit drier than when I have it run through the "normal" cycle with the "extra high" spin. If anyone has any other thoughts, I would really appreciate it. This unit is in a small space with the dryer attached so to take it out and do repairs is a pretty big hassle. It has had a new control board and two new fill valves in the 10+ years that I have owned it. Questions I have: 1.should I remove the entire drain pump to make sure there isn't anything lodged in it? 2. could it be the belt slipping slightly and keeping the spin from reaching its 1200 RPMs? 3. Anything else I may be missing???

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