Question about Teac AG-D8900 Receiver

2 Answers

Teac AG-D8900 static..

I have had my Teac for several years; however, within the first few months I blew something in the amp. I had lost the receipt and was too cheap to pay for repairs so I purchased some fuses and tried to fix it myself with no progress. Today I was looking through my electronics and thought I would give it a try. I plugged it in and what do you know it decided to work! I was stoked. I plays through the sub perfectly, but there is still some issue with the amp because it puts of a static noise while playing sound. Any ideas?

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  • bradyk Jul 27, 2008

    Thanks for the response Dave. Yes you are right I had purchased some fuses from Teac and tried several of them. I believe when I first damaged the amp I had done two stupid things, 1 being I had simple taped speaker wire together to reach the back speaker and 2 had the sound excessively loud. After reading your response I spent some time tinkering around trying different configurations and after an hour or so of music playing the static is pretty much gone.

    However, the amp is not in full working condition. The speakers work fine when they are plugged into the stereo output, but when I place them in the surround outputs the right side does not put out any sound at all. The center and left side work fine.

    I should have all the tools necessary to work on it and greatly appreciate any help I can get.



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Posted on Aug 11, 2008

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From what you have described, I am thinking that you had to replace some fuses? If so, the amplifier circuit may have a problem. Figuring out what that problem is will take some good electronic troubleshooting skills.

When the fuses got blown, how was the unit being used? Was it being played at a very loud volume?

Does the static come in all the channels and at all times or does the static happen in only one channel?

This problem of yours can have many different causes.

You seem to be very adventerous, willing to poke around in your receiver a bit, so I will help you more if you can get me answers to these few questions.

Please be aware, you can cause many more problems trying to fix these things if you are not experienced with them. There is also 120 volts of A/C voltage that can cause serious shock or even death if touched, so be careful.

There are a couple of things at a bare minimum you need to have to troubleshoot electronics.
You will need to have a multimeter, the troubleshooting will be much easier and faster. If you do not have one, the troubleshooting will go very slowly and will most likely end before finding the actual problem. The multimeter will be used to measure voltage and resistance, and it is vital to finding the problem. You will also need a soldering iron, solder, and solder wick (if you need to remove any solder).

Most of the parts that are used in these units are available at electronic parts stores on the internet. If you have a problem with the DSP board in this, you may not be able to get the parts needed and may not even be able to figure out what the problem is. They are very difficult to troubleshoot. I have been repairing car and home audio equipment for nearly 18 years and have become very proficient with them. But without having it in front of me, it will be a challenge. I am up for it, and I have a feeling you will be to.

Let me know,

Posted on Jul 26, 2008

  • Dave DeGain
    Dave DeGain Jul 27, 2008

    I have several thousand schematics, but none of this model. I am sorry about that, it will make troubleshooting very difficult.

    To start, I will need to know what type of outputs this receiver has.

    The amplifier outputs can be found on the big heat sink inside the unit. There are 2 main types, one is discrete outputs, which means that the amp circuit uses transistors and and not a big amp IC. Each channel will normally have 2 output transistors in the final stage that are mounted on the heat sink. Most times they will have a smaller transistor mounted in between the 2 main output transistors of each channel. You should be able to read the part numbers right on them. Most transistors have 3 legs and have a part number that starts with "2SAXXXX, 2SBXXXX, 2SCXXXX or 2SDXXXX (the "X's are just placeholders for unknown numbers to me) I need to know what type of transistors you have in each channel.

    The other type of output's for amplifiers are "integrated circuits" and are the bigger output IC's with many legs on them. If your amplifier uses this type, the part number will normally start with "STK-XXX", there are other types, but this is most common.

    Let me know what type of outputs you have in yours.

    Since you say that the static stopped after playing for a while, it is possible that you have some bad solder connections and that the next time you play the receiver after it has had plenty of time to cool off, the static will start up again until it gets warmed up.

    Let me know if this happens.

    I am not sure how you may have been connecting the speakers, you said that you have tried different ways. There is only one right way to connect speakers. Each speaker has a postive and a negative connector. The speaker outputs of the amplifier will have red and black connector jacks for each speaker output. Make sure you only connect one speaker per speaker jack on the receiver. If you have 5 speakers, it would be the most common for a surround sound system. On the front channel speaker outputs, connect your front speakers. One speaker for the right front and one speaker for the left front. Positive is red and negative is black for each speaker. I am sure you must know this, but I just want to make sure you are not connecting more than one speaker per channel, or bridging any channels. These type of receivers are not designed for that type of connection.

    Then you have a center channel, then the rear surround channels (right & left).

    It is very un-common for the rear outputs to have one of them out. Many rear outputs are connected in series and that means that if one is out, you won't hear either of them. Your amplifier may be a little different, with seperate output channels for each rear channel. If you are certain that one of the rears do not work, then you must have seperate amplifier channels for the rears.

    That's all for now, let me know what those amplifer outputs look like and the part numbers on them.



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