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Our BR18VC model fridge is no longer cooling as it should. It does still run but the freezer section only gets down to about 30 degrees farenhiet. We purchased it here in Denver at a Lefty Martin Appliance store which is no longer in business so need the name and address or phone number of some one in the area who can check and repair our fridge. For added information, the refridgerator section is opperating at 40 with a setting of 5.5 and we have now set the freezer at 7. It had been at 5. My name is Donald Lutze, my Email address is donlutze@yahoo.com, and our phone number is 030 794 8189. Thank you.

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  • donlutze Jul 30, 2008

    It took a while to get the ice melted from the freezer coils and get them cleaned up but we did it and things have been working fine for the past 40 hours. Thank You

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Cooling is poor For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer


  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)


  • The defrost heater


If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
From repairclinic

Posted on Jul 26, 2008

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I had ge refrigerator and the fridge is not cooling well


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Frigidaire model FRS24WNF. Will not freeze (except the lower compartment of the freezer) nor transfer cold air to the refrigerator. The back panel above the coils freezes up. Once I turned off the unit...


Of necessity, this is going to be a very LONG answer, BUT... it COULD save you from buying another fridge. There could be several causes for your issue, but the most likely is a blockage [usually a buildup of "frost"] of/in the duct that carries cold air from the freezer compartment to the fridge compartment.

Not all, but MOST refrigerators work by having two controls for the two zones [freezer and fridge sections]. The first control [an actual thermostat] is for the freezer, and is what actually turns the compressor on and off. The other control is for a "damper" in the duct [or, SOMETIMES controls an in-duct FAN] from the freezer to the fridge section.

The compressor system cools the freezer, and the refrigerator section is cooled by transferring colder air from the freezer.

The freezer control should be set to keep the freezer at about minus 10 degrees Fahrenheit to about zero degrees. Then the fridge damper control [usually the control with the letters A, B, C, and D] is usually set to about the MIDDLE position, hopefully to keep the fridge section about 34 or 35 degrees to a max of about 38 degrees.

SINCE you say that the FREEZER IS operating PROPERLY, I suspect that the DUCT that is supposed to supply cold freezer air to the fridge is somehow blocked, and this is usually caused by an accumulation of FROST [frozen water VAPOR] in the duct. Note, and write down the "settings" for BOTH controls. You'll need these later to restart the fridge.

Although the "fix" is a pain in the ____ it is not that difficult. Here are the steps to correct:
1. Get one or more ice chests/coolers.
2. Remove ALL contents from the freezer and place together in one, or if necessary two of the coolers well covered by bag ice to preserve the contents. Put a couple of bowls, or anything, in the bottom first to keep the frozen stuff above water from the melting ice. Then pack the frozen stuff very tightly with as little open space as possible. Then pour crushed ice on top. Several times a day, drain the melt water from the drain on all the ice chests, and as necessary, add ice to replace that which melted.
3. Do the same thing with everything from the fridge section.
4. Then turn OFF the refrigerator, and CLEAN both the fridge and freezer VERY WELL. IF you don't clean both the freezer and fridge WELL you will get mold, mildew, and probably an offensive odor!
5. Then PROP the freezer AND fridge doors open AT LEAST a couple of inches, or MORE if possible. This will allow warmer household air inside. IF you have a portable fan to blow house air into the fridge section that will cause the frost to melt faster.

In a house with no air conditioning, in the summer, the blocked duct should thaw in well less than 24 hours. If you have air conditioning and no fan circulating air into/through the fridge it could take 2 or 3 days, but in any case, after 3 days, you should be ready to test the fridge.

6. Plug the fridge back into the wall outlet, set both the freezer thermostat and the fridge control back to their original settings when the fridge was cooling properly. [AGAIN I remind you that, at the very beginning, make note of, and write down the settings for both the freezer thermostatic control, and the fridge duct control]

7. Place a thermometer on a middle shelf of the fridge [and if possible, one in the freezer also] and check it/them after about 4 to 8 hours.

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