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Refrigerator made a loud thump when it ended a cycle. Afterward, it quit making ice (icemaker) and now with the controls set to coldest for both the freezer and refrigerator it barely keeps things frozen and not very cold in the refrigerator. Very quiet now . I don't have any info on this as far as age,size if refrigerant can be recharged. Didn't see any valves.
Does this sound like it would be better to repair or replace?
Thanks for your assistance,
Larry
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Replace the Dual water control valve found on the back of the refrigerator near the floor with a new one and thaw out the entrance where the water goes into the ice maker. Provide a model number found on the inside of the fresh food compartment wall and I'll try to help you find the correct part number for the water control valve. The water control valve is apparently leaking like a leaky faucet and it's freezing causing the problem
I have this same thing happening, also. I have not been able to find a solution to this issue, however. The ejector blades push against the ice, apparently a gear pops loose with a loud clicking sound and the heater either does not work or never turns on. I end up killing the breaker to thr refrig,`removing the icemaker, letting it wrm up dumping the ice and putting it back in.
Normally, when the temp of the icemaker gets to about 14 degrees F, the icemaker goes into the harvest mode, turning on the mold heater and attempting to eject the cubes. When the heater has warmed the mold sufficiently to release the cubes, the ejector can continue and push out the cubes, then the icemaker fills with fresh water to beging to make a batch of ice again. Manually starting the cycle as you have done only allows the cycle to start without the temp sensor seeing the 14 degrees. The mold heating generally takes a couple minutes. If your mold heater or the temp sensor are not working, you will have to replace the icemaker, as they are not available as a repair parts.
We need to know if the ice maker overflowed or if there is a crack. Sometimes the water gets frozen in the fill tube and diverts the water everywhere other that ice maker. Rare but sometimes something causes the water control valve to stick open on rear of refrigerator. Your ice maker has a thermostat inside it and starts a cycle when the thermostat says the water has frozen. That starts a cycle of about six thing to happen.The defrost element below ice maker warms the bottom just enough to loosen the ice. Micro switches feel and sense the position and as it nears ending the final step the ice maker tells the water control valve to open for a few seconds. An adjustment in that control may stop over flow. But if cracked in a major section it will need to be replaced. Let me know if this helps you. Sea Breeze
the thump is your compressor shutting off.you can try changing the rubber grommets but most likely your compressor is just going to be loud until it finally dies.
The quick answer is to turn the water off to the refrigerator so it quits making until you get it fixed.
If your fridge has the control boards in each side of the freezer cabinet that controls the icemaker, then you have a failed board.
If you have a standard icemaker with the metal shutoff arm then you have a failed motor module in the icemaker.
You can remove the icemaker and unplug the wiring connector from it so you can leave the water on to the dispenser.
Post back if you need instructions on reparing it.
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