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Gas dryer not heating properly

Gas flame ignites when first turned on, shuts off when reaches proper temperature, but when it's time to relight, the igniter glows hot but the gas does'nt ignite again. If I let it set about ten to fifteen minutes it will repeat the same senario. Thanks for any help..

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  • gdekeyser Dec 02, 2008

    i have the same problem with a HE-3 SEARS DRYER FRONT LOADER WHAT CAN I DO .

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Replace the coils on the gas valve. they are cheap and you can buy them online or at your local parts outlet. you'll be amazed how cheap &cuick th fix is!

Posted on Jul 28, 2008

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Non Glowing Igniter


What solenoids are you referring to?

When you set the timer and heat selector switches on your dryer and press the button [switch] to turn it on, the direction of 120VAC passes through the heat selector switch through the timer switch through the cycling thermostat through the hi-limit switch, through the thermal cut-off fuse to the burner assembly's gas valve.

Simultaneously, as the current is traveling through a path to the 1st gas valve coil, current is also traveling through a path to the flame sensor- and then to the igniter.

The igniter will begin to glow and when it gets hot enough, the flame sensor will detect the heat and switch off. which then diverts current to the second gas valve coils.

The second gas valve coils activate plungers in the gas valve which allows gas to flow out into the burner housing. The igniter still being hot, ignites the gas to a long blue flame.

To maintain the proper air temperature, the heat in the blower housing is monitored by the cycling thermostat. During normal operation, air temperature should be between 120 degrees Fahrenheit and 160 degrees Fahrenheit.

When the air reaches the proper temperature specific to your dryer model, the cycling thermostat will switch off the voltage to the burner assembly.

The hi-limit thermostat and thermal cut-off fuse monitor the drum air temperature. If there is an air flow problem [restriction or total blockage], the hi-limit thermostat may switch off the voltage to prevent damage to the dryer.

Eventually, if the air flow problem [restriction or total blockage] is not corrected, the thermal cut-off fuse will fail (blow) and the dryer won't heat at all.

Check continuity to the following components, thermal cut-off fuse, hi-limit thermostat, igniter, flame sensor, and cycling thermostat. Of course you will take your readings with the power cord of the dryer unplugged from the wall outlet.

You will either disconnect [isolate] any of the wire leads going to their respective components during the test [using a multimeter (analog or digital)]; OR remove each of the components entirely from the dryer to test them.

1.) A good thermal cut-off fuse will have 0 Ohms of resistance. On the other hand, if the needle [on a an analog tester] does not move OR the digital display [on a digital meter] has not changed significantly, there is NO continuity - which means the fuse has burned out and needs to be replaced

2.) A dryer's Hi-Limit Thermostat is activated by hi-temperature changes (between 250 degrees Fahrenheit and 300 degrees Fahrenheit.

A good hi-limit thermostat will have 0 Ohms of resistance at room temperature.

To test the thermostat's response to temperature change, place the component on an electric griddle or skillet. Set the heat on the skillet or griddle to the appropriate temperature according to the temperature rating stamped on the hi-limit thermostat you are testing. If the hi-limit thermostat switches off within 5% of that temperature, the part is functioning properly. However, if the hi-limit thermostat does not switch off OR switches off prematurely, the hi-limit thermostat is faulty and will have to be replaced. [Remember, when the switch turns off at the appropriate temperature level- you should get a high resistance reading to show that the circuit is "open")

3.) Perform the same procedure as step 2 to test the Cycling Thermostat: First at room temperature and then its response to temperature change. The only difference is, the test temperature range will be somewhere between 120-160 degrees Fahrenheit Once again, refer to the temperature rating stamped on the component you are testing- and the 5% tolerance remains the same, too.

4.) The resistance reading for the igniter is between 50 and 400 Ohms of resistance; anything else, it's faulty- toss it and replace it.

5.) You should get a resistance reading of 0 Ohms at the flame sensor-

Flame sensors are tricky though. Flame sensors could still short out and
allow the igniter to glow- but would prevent voltage from reaching the gas coil. For example, the igniter will glow and not turn off and a flame will not be established because there was no voltage at the gas coil to open up and release gas for ignition.

Hope this info helps...I would appreciate a follow-up from you when you resolve this problem- to gain more knowledge and skill.

Thank-you and best wishes on your project

Jul 15, 2013 | Whirlpool LGR3624JQ Gas Dryer

1 Answer

I have a gas dryer, model MDG7657AWW that will not stay heated. Every time I put it on, the flame comes on for about 21 seconds & then shuts off. I replaced the igniter, hi limit thermostat, cycling t


On a gas dryer the heat normally only comes on for 30 seconds or until the drum temp reaches 160f at which time the flame is shut down by the cycling thermostat. The drum temp then starts to drop. When the drum temp reaches 105f then another blast of heat is issued for 30 more seconds.That is how they work. Put it all back together and trow a load in there.
themobilian_3090.jpg

Oct 28, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

My drier is igniting after the start button is pressed but the flame only stays on for a very short time and shuts off. It seems that the dryer never reaches desired temp. Clothes do not dry.


Hi,

If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working properly.


if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....


If you have an electric dryer, you can have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.


check out this electric no heat tip...


heatman101

Apr 12, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

Model 110 72712101 kenmore gas dryer will come on run about 2to3 minutes then goes off after a short the glow will come on again but will not relight.


Watch the igniter. Does it glow bright orange, then shut off without igniting the gas? (When the gas ignites there's a large blue flame.) If so, there may be defective coils on the gas valve. Mounted on the top of modern gas valves, there are black electrical coils. The coils, when energized, open the gas valve. If one or more of the coils are defective, the valve doesn't open and the gas cannot ignite. Because it's often difficult to properly test the coils, it's usually best to replace both (all) of them at the same time. Here is a link to the parts you need.

Jan 02, 2011 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

2 Answers

The heat turns off after 3 seconds of flame.


There is a flame sensor failure.

Here is the ignition sequence for a furnace. This will help you understand what is happening/not happening.

Thermostat2.gif calls for heat.

draft inducer motor (DIM) starts drawing draft through heat exchanger.

Pressure switch detects proper operation of DIM, and sends signal to board to begin ignition.
(it detects negative pressure)

Ignitor starts ignition attempt and gas valve sends gas to burners.

Upon ignition, flame sensor detects flame and sends signal to board stopping ignition sequence and continuing gas flow for heat mode operation until thermostat is satisfied.

During this sequence the blower motor is brought on, and by using a series of temperature limit switches, the system assures that the unit is operating properly.
(If the blower is not operating, or the airflow is inadequate, the heat exchanger will overheat and trip one or more temp limit switches.)

There is also a "rollout" switch that detects improper flame pattern "rolling out" into the controls compartment.

Now, to apply that to your situation.

If the flame sensor does not sense flame, it shuts down the furnace to prevent a dangerouse gas build up.

With most modern glow coil ignition systems you have one of two failures.

1) the flame sensor is bad and needs to be replaced.

2) the control board is not proccesing the signal from the flame sensor and shuts the system down. In that case the board would need to be replaced.

There is a possibility that a temperature limit or roll out switch is breaking the curcuit, but that would be quite unusual to happen consistantly at three seconds.

Unless you have the ability and tools to test the snesor and board, the next step would be to replace the sensor first, and then the board if that does not fix it.

Oct 03, 2009 | Maytag Neptune MDG5500AW Gas Dryer

1 Answer

No Heat


Hello
Welcome to Fixya


Remove the vent line from the rear and try the dryer.
If it heats then that means there is a clog or kink in the vent line blocking the vent air from exiting which will stop the dryer from getting hot!
If not then it's another one of these problems.

Defective Ignitor (Gas Only)
When heated the ignitor used on your gas dryer must obtain a specific high temperature
in order to activate the flame sensor. This ignitor is fragile and susceptible to cracking.
A hairline fracture that is barely visible to the naked eye is enough to change
the resistance of the ignitor to a point that is will not work properly.
You can test the resistance of your ignitor. You should get a reading of 50-400 ohms of
resistance.

If the ignitor gets hot and then goes off after about 10-15 seconds and there is
no ignition, the problem is probably not the ignitor. It is most likely the gas valve
coils that are defective.

If the ignitor comes on and stays on, it is the flame sensor that is defective.

If the ignitor is not getting hot it could also be one of the thermostats that is defective.
The power for the ignitor is passed from the timer, through all of the thermostats,
limit switches and fuses to the ignitor. So if you are not getting power to the ignitor
during ignition, you should check the continuity of the individual thermostats and fuses.
DRYER DOES NOT HEAT



Defective Gas Valve Coil (Gas Dryer Only)

If the gas dryer will light once but will not relight until it cools down, it is likely the gas valve coils are faulty. These coils loose some strength when subjected to heat. When they become old, the addition of heat may be enough to prevent them from opening the gas valve when hot. However the coils still work when when cool.

An easy way to diagnose the coils when the burner is not lighting, watch the ignitor. If the the ignitor glows for 10 to 15 seconds but no flame is created, then the coils are faulty. If the ignitor is not glowing the problem is elsewhere.

Recent Customer Symptoms:
The dryer burner doesn't always come on when starting. If the burner does come on, once it goes off if won't come on again until the dryer cools down.



Defective Flame Sensor (Gas Dryer Only)
The flame sensor's job is to monitor the ignitor for sufficient heat
to ignite the gas. A properly operating flame sensor will pass a
continuity check under room temperature.

Common Symptoms
If the flame sensor is defective in the open position,
the ignitor will not get hot when the dryer is started.
However, if it is defective in the closed position the ignitor
will get hot, but the flame sensor will not allow the flame to ignite.
In this case, the ignitor will usually stay hot for a long period of
time.



Defective Thermostat
The thermostats are responsible for maintaining the proper temperature
in the dryer. Check the exhaust temperature of the dyer and if the
temperature is above 150 degrees, you will most likely need to change
the operating thermostat.

The thermostat can also fail in the opposite mode.
It can prevent the element from heating at all.
A failed continuity check at room temperature will verify this condition.

There are some special thermostats that are single pole double throw.
These thermostats are often used to control the timer when set to the
Automatic Dry cycle. If the dryer timer will advance in the Timed Dry
cycle but not the Automatic Dry cycle, then the thermostat could be the
problem.


Defective Thermal Fuse
The thermal fuse is in series with one leg of power to the motor.
If the fuse is open (no continuity) the motor will not run.

Location:
The thermal fuse is located in different locations according
to the model and brand of dryer.

Solution:
Check the thermal fuse for continuity with a volt/ohm meter.
If it is open, it will need to be replaced






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Jan 25, 2009 | Kenmore 73952 Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Flame shuts off after five seconds


HI! I BELIEVE THE PROBLEM YOU ARE HAVING IS CAUSED BY A PART CALLED THE THERMOCOUPLER. THIS IS A SAFETY DEVICE THAT SHUTS OFF THE GAS IF THE FLAME GOES OUT, BUT IT NEEDS HEAT TO MAINTAIN THE PROPER CIRCUIT. THIS MEANS THAT THE THERMOCOUPLER IS BAD AND NOT HOLDING THE GAS VALVE OPEN AS IT SHOULD. IT IS A SMALL THIN ROD TYPE THING THAT WILL BE VERY CLOSE TO THE PILOT OR IGNITER AND IT HAS TO FUNCTION PROPERLY TO ALLOW THE GAS TO CONTINUE TO FLOW. WHAT IT IS DOING IS GETTING JUST WARM ENOUGH TO OPEN THE GAS VALVE, BUT THEN THE IGNITER STOPS AND THE BAD THERMOCOUPLER COOLS AND TURNS YOUR GAS OFF. YOU NEED TO REPLACE THE THERMOCOUPLER AND YOU SHOULD BE BACK TO WARM CLOTHES IN NO TIME. HOPE THIS HELPS YOU. ANY QUESTIONS, JUST REPLY AND I'LL HELP MORE.

ARCLIGHT1217

Nov 02, 2008 | Maytag MDG2706A Gas Dryer

2 Answers

Maytag gas dryer -


still may be solenoids belive it or not the coils could become weak and fail to pull open valve recommend changing both at same time

Apr 26, 2008 | Hotpoint NLL113EYWO Electric Dryer

2 Answers

Kenmore gas dryer


lots of people point the finger at the dryer when they have a problem you could have bad thermal cutoffs on the back of the flame tube BUT is your washer spinning properly to remove the majorityof water from the clothes

Jan 02, 2008 | Kenmore 75944 Gas Dryer

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