Porter cable router

Hi Wanda, I know this suggestion is a couple of months too late to be useful, but I ran into the same problem with my brand new Porter Cable miter saw. In order to pull out the safety pin/lock, you need to firmly wiggle the "switch handle" a bit. The "switch handle" is what the instructions call the main handle near the blade that you will eventually use to pull the saw down and make your cuts. The weight of the blade and motor appear to put some pressure on the lock pin and prevent it from disengaging. Hopefully that helps someone that runs into the same issue.

If the collet was tightened without a bit in it, it may have been squeezed so it is too small for the bit shank. Completely unscrew the collet from the router and see if the bit will go into it. If not, you can try forcing an old bit in using your vice, and then using as hammer and punch to remove the bit, but most likely you will have to get a new collet. Just search "Porter Cable router parts to find a source.

you can try going to dewaltservicenet.com and under manuals on the lefthand side of the site type in your model number, it will redirect you to another page for manuals.

Have you tried taking out the collet and cleaning it and the cavity where it goes? If there is any wood dust present it may be causing the problem. If that doesn't fix it, you may need a new collet.

Use a 45 degree 1/4'' shank router bit with bearing and adjust cut depth to desired depth. you may want to do a test cut on a scrap piece to make adjustments before you make the intended cut.

This is a common issue with these kits. Some guys put a little shred of paper in the threads as they screw it together.
Try to reach inside the base and grap the knurled ring with a pair of channel locks and you should be able to get sufficient grip on it to tighten it enough to keep it from spinning loose.
If it still works loose, you could put a little rubber cement or Spray adhesive on just a bit of the threads, let it dry, and then screw it together. It will be harder to undo, but should keep it from vibrating off.
Finally, if you have a lot of work to do with the template guides, try to make a point to check it occasionally. In this way, you are more likely to catch it before it comes loose enough to do any damage. I don't believe it could spin off all the way, but it can loosen to the extent that your work is damaged.
I hope this helps in some respect.
Best regards.

Are you sure that there is no short circuit in the power cord itself? Have you tested to see that you do in fact have power to the switch?
If so, have a look at the brushes...Are they worn out and in need of replacement?
Blow some compressed air down through the motor and clear dust from the armature. Sometimes debris and sawdust gets inside these things and causes intermittent problems.
Do you have any cause to believe the motor itself has been subjected to the kind of loads that would cause severe overheating and lead to failure?
Any or several of these could contribute to a no power condition.
If none of these things apply, give the motor a couple of sharp smacks on the side with the heel of your palm. If there is a loose connection, sometimes this is enough to jar it into place long enough to get a partial power start up, and you can troubleshoot the loose connection. If not, it may make you feel a little better.
Otherwise, I'm afraid you may have a faulty motor. But these porter cables are workhorses. I rarely see them fail entirely. But it does happen.

I hope this helps you to diagnose the source of your problem and leads you to a solution. If there's anything more I can do to help, please let me know.

This may not be related to your jig. It may be movement in the vertical axis resulting from:

1. The router bearings being worn allowing the bit to move up and down.
2. The router bearings worn allowing the spindle to deflect side to side which changes the bit height slightly (cuts on the edges, making the cut a hair deeper).
3. The router collet or router spindle worn, allowing the bit to move during cuts.
4. The jig guide plate deflecting or no longer flat.
5. Excess vibration in the router causing the wood to move in the jig.

To check the bearings; try routing the cut with a straight bit first to clear the wood for the dovetail bit. Then cut with the dovetail bit (a new one preferably) using very light feed pressure. Is the joint tighter? If so then the bearings are worn. Have the router serviced or replace it.

Check the end-play by pulling on the router shaft, does it wiggle slightly in and out? If so this is your problem. Have the router serviced or replace it.

Be sure the wood is flat and the faces planed parallel, if they aren't the dovetail line will be straight but when you assemble there will be slight end gaps in sections of the dovetail.

Go to Dewaltservicenet.com and in the middle of page at bottom it will ask if you are looking for manual, type in your model number and on the next page look at the manual for the type 3 router. Hope this helps

Most chucks have a tolerance the cordless drills where designed for drill bits 1/8 and larger the 3/8 chucks are a little better with the smaller bits .Check your owners manual and see if they have a min requirement listed for the bit size