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Posted on Dec 07, 2017
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I have a w reg, diesil transit van and the engine seems to have started to cut out once it has warmed up, after about 4 or 5 miles,it was driving ok, then all of a sudden it lost power and a few mins later cut out all together. it seems to be ok again once it has cooled down. has antone got any suggestions? thank you.

1 Answer

Rigger DeBusk

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  • Ford Master 1,811 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 07, 2017
Rigger DeBusk
Ford Master
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Joined: Aug 28, 2012
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Find the cold start switch on the engine. This unit will put more fuel into the engine and set the idle a bit higher for cold starts till warm up then go beck to normal. It appears there is a malfunction in this switch. Replace it, or you can do what I did and put a toggle switch on the power in side of this switch so that you can shut it off after it's a bit warmed up and will stay running. That's all I can imagine would cause your problem on diesel engine.

5 Related Answers

Wayne Conley

  • 2 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 27, 2008

SOURCE: dodge ram van e250 dies while driving

try changing the coil- sometimes they get hot and break down- once they cool off vehicle will start and run until they get hot again

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Jun 18, 2009

SOURCE: when i start my car it just cuts off again this happens a few times then works fine, also after a few miles of driving the abs warning light comes on my car is an N reg audi A4 automatic 1.8

Hi, I had the same problem. it is the imoboliser, it reads a code in your key while starting. you need to get the code in the key reprogramed. if that wont work you will need to get a new ignition barrel. Audi dealer will reprogram your key.

Anonymous

  • 95 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 16, 2009

SOURCE: Car starts,runs for a few minutes and stalls.

It could be the TFI (thick film ignition) ignition module on the distributor. When it restarts warm, but dies right away, it has a cranking circuit to initially fire the engine. After that, it switches to run mode, which may be be the problem circuit. Often times, when you take the cover off a bad module, it will have a bubble in the jell where the open circuit has heated up. Heat is the enemy of all electrical components and when they get warm is when the problems show up. This is my first guess. If you have access to a fuel pressure gauge, you can hook it to the pressure tap on the fuel rail and watch for a drop in pressure. It needs around 40 psi to run. Even a clogged fuel filter causing low pressure and flow can shut you down, but it shouldn't run good cold in that case either since fuel demand is higher on cold start. I hope this points you in the right direction. If not, I'd be glad to continue assisting your diagnosis.

Anonymous

  • 6 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 14, 2010

SOURCE: Hello, I was wondering if there

yes. in my town we have autozone and advanced auto. The should be able to order you the right manual.

Anonymous

  • 83 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 05, 2011

SOURCE: hi there i have a

ok if you are getting the starter to click or the relay to clickkkk like that very fast its not a relay problem its a battery problem have you tryed to jump start it? make sure your battery termanals, to posts are clean and tight you should not be able to move or wiggle them by hand after you check for tightness and make sure they are clean jump it with another car. do that i beleave it will fire right up and run for you. then have your battery checked and make sure it is good and dosent have a bad cell or week battery. most auto stores will check for free for you. ask about haveing it checked [under load] this mean they will putt a load or drain on it to check the batterys bounce back for recharging itself. if all that is good have the altinator checked they should do this for you also at the auto store make sure its recharging for you, if its starting to go bad it will not recharge at the rate it needs to run the car and slowly zapp your battery dead. i hope this helps you

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