My saw won't put out full power, it's like smoothered up, not working at all properly?

You just do not have a saw that has enough power, the blade is dull or both. Change your blade and push the wood through slower or get a more powerful saw for the hard woods.

It sounds like your switch has a short circuit. It is quite unusual for this to happen and due to the nature of the fault I would highly advise not using the saw until it is sorted. If you are uneasy about working on the electrical parts of this you can find your nearest service agent on their website. Hitachi service page, put ypur postcode in the box on the top right.

I had the same problem. I attached the blade to the motor incorrectly. Once I put it on right it worked like it was supposed to.

you possibly have a bearing/gear problem restricting movement of the mechanical parts. I would try and remove the gearcase first and just try the motor section before going any further. This will narrow it down.

Same problem with mine but I.found a guy's blog on google and he had identical problem and found the "pre travel switch," that they saw fit to put in the saw was the culprit. It's not a typical switch and has issues making contact often times (Ryobi are you listening?) He was able to take it apart and make a adj/repair (instructions he provides on blog) but who knows how long it will last? Here's the link:)-> http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/9508-ryobi-circular-saw-broken-and-fixed/

85% of paper jams are caused by worn rollers. The rubber treads in the rollers wears down, making them smooth, so they won't pick up the paper. Sometimes, they are aged, which also gives them a smoother rounded texture, causing jams. The quick fix is to liven up that roller with a mixture of alcohol and soap. Damp a rag with the solution and wipe the rollers clean with it. That's make them more pliable and the paper jams will cease.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/joe_8b8c2cd6ce148309

Hate to tell you this but if you didn't mix oil with the gas properly (most likely a 40:1 ratio) then the chain saw will seize up and won't work again.

Turn both jet screws CW to stops (lightly), then back out each CCW 1-1/2 turns each. This is a basic setting which should allow the engine to start and run. Check the fuel filter, air cleaner, and muffler for plugging. Start the engine and allow to warm up, then pull the throttle full on. Adjust H needle CW until the engine begins to speed up, but still 4-stroking. Proper final adjustment is when the engine 4-strokes when running free, but immediately 2-strokes when cutting. Release the throttle and adjust L needle CW for smoother idle, yet still allows the engine to 'follow the throttle'. Adjust idle speed screw so that the chain stops moving, but the engine continues to run. Hope this helps!

Make sure the air cleaner is clean or replaced and the muffler is not plugged. Set both screws to CW stops (lightly), then back out each CCW 1-1/2 turns. Start engine and allow to warm up. Pull throttle full on, and adjust H needle CW until the engine speeds up, but still 4-strokes. The correct point is when the engine 4-strokes, but 2-strokes when a cutting load is applied. Let idle and adjust L for smoother running, yet allows the engine to 'follow the throttle'. Adjust idle speed screw so that engine continues to run, but doesn't try to move the chain. Hope this helps.

Sorry, but that is not going to work ,that motor is not compatible with that type switch. you would need a variable speed motor.Newer models have many more improvements, you should try one of them,much smoother cut. Good luck and please don't forget to rate this answer.Thanks.