The only good news is, I got this 1 year old machine for FREE. It actually works great for the most part, but now and then when it starts to wash a load, it gives an F1 code. What the heck does F1 even mean?? So here I am with laundry just piling up, any suggestions?
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Re: Crazy washing machine
F51 error code is beacause the computer board did not receive input from the motor on the bottom. Unplug the washer, pull the machine forward and tilt the machine back. On the bottom you will see a large white wheel with a silver allen screw in the middle I think it is a 6mm allen wrech that takes it off. Once you remove the screw and drop the white wheel, there will be a large coil of wires with 4 5/16 screws holding it on, remove these screws and drop the coils. On the right hand side you will see a connector with three wires , unplug it. Use sand paper or a scraping tool to clean all 3 male sides of the connectors. Reverse process to re-assemble.
I have had the same error code message. I bought my washing machine in March 2006. I called 1-800-4-my-home (Sears repair) since I have a 3-year warranty. The gal said they don't really need to send out a repair person. She said it's most likely a computer malfunction. She said to unplug it for 2-minutes and plug it back in or you can turn off the breaker to your laundry room for 2-minutes and flick it back on. If that doesn't help, you may need a technician to come out and look at it. Hope this works for you!
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If the engine is less than about 25 years old then it will have Electronic Ignition .. i.e. no points & condenser like the old days. So if it is electronic ignition then the coil is actually an Ignition Module, which means that the coil AND it's electronic trigger module are integrated into a single sealed and non-serviceable unit. But that is good news when you want to check it. Simply place the machine in a relatively poorly lit place (or do it at night) and remove the spark plug and place something metal in the plug lead then set that near a metal part of the engine (but AWAY FROM THE SPARK PLUG HOLE !! ) so that there is a 6mm (1/4") air gap. Then crank the engine over with the throttle in just above idle position. You should see a "cracking blue spark". If not, coil is cactus. Simple as that. That's the great thing with B&S ignition modules .. they work or they don't.
Their are 3 screws holding the front lower panel onto this unit.If you can tip the machine back some and put a block underneath it will help you see and remove the screws ,I believe they are 1/4 inch or t15 torx... If the unit is leaking that bad before tearing apart carefully run your hand around the lower section of the door boot (rubber) and inspect for a tear or a hole Hope this helps you out GOOD LUCK
If the machine is a few years old it could mean that the rear seal has worn and allowed water into the spin bearings. If the drum feels loose, it means ther'es free play in the bearings as well. Not good news..It's a major job and will need a wokshop...........Nomess
actually SD means SUDS, it maens that your using too much soap,
when you clean out the rap your cleaning out the rest of the soap,
anyway, if you cut way back on your soap, i usually sugest 1 tablespoon for these models works just fine
try one empty load and no soap
watxh the suds appear in the wash cycle
remenber you bough this machine for water savingfs
1/6 the water 1/6 the soap
It appears your touch panel has failed in this instance.
For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing. I recommend both sites because ...
FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.
PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information. RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.
If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell. In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.
Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.
If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.
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With an error code the only way to find and to repair this is,
First unplug the washer and wait a few minutes then restart it like rebooting your computer when its acting strange! If it corrects the problem GREAT!!! WE WIN!
How old is the washer?
If the appliance is 10 years old or more you it may not be advisable to put good money into bad! New appliances are so much more efficient today that they can save you a lot of money in energy!!!! Water,Electric and detergent! And put money back in your pocket! The new appliance will pay for itself in only a few years!
If not only a trained laundry tech can make the electronic diagnoses. Like we used to be able to fix my own cars, but not today they need diagnostic equipment! Below I referred you to a great service nation wide!
If none of these tasks remedy the problem then here is a good company that's found nation wide. A&E Factory Service A&E has schedulers available to take appointments 24/7 And they do warranty work too, for most manufactures! 1(800) 905-9505
You will be fine Bless You ngafm1 PLEASE GIVE ME A GOOD RATING BEFORE YOU SIGN OF
Leaking pump or drain connexion most likely
you will have to get under to check it out.
Put a several sheet to news paper under the machine and pull it out as it stands to see where the water is coming from front/back/sides
Do a wash and repeat.
But you will need the service of an engineer I guess unless you are good with a wrench.