I don't know which wire should be soldered on which ends.

if the wires are sodered on to yhe ends of the fuse you can carefully cut them right at the fuse but i would hold my sodering tip on the weld and pull the wire off when the solder melts. Unfortunatly you would have to solder a new fuse back in being realy,really carefull about how long u leave the heat on as it could cook the fuse Sounds like a job for a repairman as you dont want to be frying anything else or altering a good amp and if they screw it up they have to take care of it. please let me know how it goes,im curious.

The jack uses three wires because it supports TRS (Tip-Ring-Sleeve) type ¼" jacks as well as standard TS (guitar) jacks.

To best see which wires go to which posts, it's easiest to find a TRS type jack and unscrew the cover to see the configuration.

If you can't find one, keep this general principle in mind:
Typically, the ground wire is black and is soldered to the main body of the connector, and the remaining wires are soldered together as one to the other post.

It sounds as if the 1/4" jack has become faulty. The only other thing would be a cord with a break in the interior wire, causing and intermittent connection and signal transfer. I have had this happen with repeated stage use. I tested the cord with an ohm meter attached to each end of the cord wire and starded bending the cord, going from one end to the other. Mine was broke about 4" from one end and would loose signal with the slightest motion. I cut the cable about 6" past that point and re-soldered the wire and still use the fixed cable. Good Luck

It looks like the cable terminates into a 1/4" stereo or 3 wire plug.

Best: I recommend going to Radio shack or an audio store and buying a 1/4" stereo plug/ with cable that has one end loose and attaching the loose end to your foot pedal. I do not know why it is stereo unless there are 2 pedals but if so ,you will need to determine which wire works on which pedal so leave pedal cover loose until you test it. I have replaced these before.
OK method: The cable can be spliced using solder and heat shrink to isolate the wires. Use probably 1//8 to 3/16" shrink for the wires and 1/4" to 3/8" shrink over the whole job. Keep each wire separate by color type.If the wire is too hard to twist it may be a special type that can be connected using terminal strips(radio shack has them) or use wire nuts and tape them.

Any electronic savy tech should be able to either solder the wire back on OR replace the connector for you. The battery connectors are available even from Radio Shack.

black and red will goto 1 speaker. and blue/yellow to the other. typically red and yellow are + and black and blue are -. the crossover board might tell you which is which where they solder to it. but i'm pretty sure the black/red goto woofer. try hooking up both to woofer and listen to it. 1 way is going to sound horribly wrong lol. that will mean you hooked up the tweeter leads to the woofer. but DO NOT HOOK UP WOOFER LEADS TO TWEETER. thats why i say to do it on woofer.

Possibly a loose connection, or bad solder connection. unplug it from power.

If you think you are up to it geta soldering iron and some solder, and a screwdriver, and take the amp part out. be careful of the speaker wires. put some tape on each one and label them so you know where to put them back. after you got it out you might have to take some more screws out to get the board off of the chasis, so you can see under it. this is where all the components are soldered to the board. maybe use a magnifying glass. touch up anything that looks questionable.
do all over. you don't need to know what everything does if you just go all over. careful not to cause any shorts. you might see something that obviously needs to be fixed. you have found a problem. you can't fix something if you don't find a problem. do all over anyway if you think you still have to.

Put it back well enough to test it. then put it all the way back together, or continue to look for a problem, or take it to someone, like me!


Good luck





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Sounds like a loose wire to me (because the problem isn't consistent) the most likely suspect is the jack plug. Unscrew the body of the plug and check that the two wires are firmly soldered to the terminals inside.

If they're OK you can pop the cover off the footswitch and check that end. As far as I recall that end of the cable goes straight to a PCB (printed circuit board) so be very careful if you need to solder anything. If the solder around the wire connection is cracked, that's a dry joint and can be fixed with a small blob of solder carefully applied.

If all the cable connections are fine there's a problem with the PCB or the micro-switch mounted on it.

If the noise is a pop or click, that's normal. Any other sound could be caused by too long a cord, which will produce noise while on the floor.

If it's not the cord, then you most likely have something wrong with the wiring inside the guitar. Have a luthier (guitar builder and technician) look at it, and s/he should be able to fix the problem.


Hope that helps!

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/cameron_463100ffd54b591d

Try this link:http://www.schecterguitars.com/schematic/schecter_Basses,Ultra,SCustoms,SElites,C-4-5.pdf Here is another link to more diagrams:http://schecter.musicianscentre.com/home/schecter-wiring-diagrams Here is one more link:http://www.disgaeamt.ru/archives/schecter_wiring/schecter_stiletto_deluxe_4&5_omen%20458.pdf One of those should be the right one.