Question about Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore electric dryer no heat

Changed out limits and element starts to heat once then no more. ducts are free and cord good can't be 220 as element works on first try?

Posted by on

×

1 Answer

  • Level 1:

    An expert who has achieved level 1.

    Corporal:

    An expert that hasĀ over 10 points.

    Mayor:

    An expert whose answer gotĀ voted for 2 times.

    Problem Solver:

    An expert who has answered 5 questions.

  • Contributor
  • 14 Answers

Test for 240 vlts in the back of dryer while the dryer is running.It can heat the first time but ounce dryer is under a load it can loose the voltage. Have you tested voltage to the thermistate while dryer is running?

Posted on Jul 27, 2008

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

Does the Kenmore Series 700 dryer use circuit breakers or a thermal fuse to shutoff the heating element?


All Kenmore Electric Dryers use a thermal cut-off or thermal cut-out, hi-limit thermostat, and a cycling thermostat apart from the motor centrifugal switch as parts of the heating circuit. The thermal cut-off/thermal cut-out and the hi-limit thermostat are located on the heater duct/element duct while the cycling thermostat is located on the blower housing.

jahn27_561.jpg
jahn27_564.jpg
jahn27_563.jpg
jahn27_562.jpg


The thermal cut-off/cut-out serves as a safety measure and blows open should the dryer overheats or should the hi-limit thermostat fails to cut off power to the heating element. Check the continuity of the thermal cut-off/cut-out and if open, replace it including the hi-limit thermostat.

Aug 22, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

What would make the high limit switch on my kenmore electric dryer be open twice


Lint build up inside the machine, or a clogged dryer vent duct. if it is the resettable type, disconnect your dryer vent, reset the limit switch, and try to run it. if it works with the ducting disconnected, clean your ducting, and make sure the flapper door on the outside of your house is working. If the limit trips even with the duct disconnected, make sure the air path and fan are clean and free of lint. sometimes lint will build up on the heater element and catch on fire near the limit switch. the heater banks are available as a complete assembly, with a new element and all limit switches and thermostats. they run about 75 dollars.

Nov 20, 2010 | Kenmore 64882 Electric Dryer

2 Answers

Need instructions on replacing heating element in whirlpool gold dryer model GEQ9800LW


For the model number you have listed, you can replace the heating element by following these steps:

1. UNPLUG the dryer. Dangerous voltage is still present inside the dryer even when it is shut off.

2. Remove the lower toe panel under the dryer door. The panel comes off by inserting a putty knife along the top seam of the panel about 2 inches in from each side. There is a retaining clip on each side that you must depress in order for the panel to pop open. Open the panel and remove.

3. Open the dryer door and remove the lint filter. NOTE: You cannot remove the blower fan duct assembly with the lint screen in place (next step).

4. Locate the screws that hold the blower fan duct assembly in place and remove. Remove the ground wire and auto dry sensor wire as well (if attached to the duct assembly).

5. With the blower fan duct assembly removed, the heating element should be easily accessible on the right hand side.

6. Locate the Hi-Limit Thermostat and Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) located on the left-hand side of the heater box (these are the two small components on the outside of the heater box with wires attached to them on the left hand side. Disconnect the wires. NOTE: Make sure you label where they go.

7. The entire heater box with all components attached will come out by removing a single screw on the front bracket. Remove the screw and the entire heater box will pull free of the exhaust duct in the rear.

8. With the heater box removed, the heating element will pull out from the front by removing the mounting screws along the side of the heater box.

You can view and exploded view diagram of what I am describing by going to pcappliancerepair.com. The heating components are listed under Section 3.

The list of components are as follows:

Heating Element - Item 14
Blower Fan Duct Assembly - Item 45
Heater Box - Item 46
Thermal Cut-Out - Item 47
Hi-Limit Thermostat - Item 48
Heater Box Bracket - Item 50

If you have questions, please let me know.

NOTE: If you are experiencing problems with the dryer not producing heat, it may not be the heating. If you've confirmed the heating element to be faulty, great. If you haven't, please read through the following:

If the dryer runs, but does not heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an electric dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

All dryers are not constructed the same. However, the Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Replacement parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com. The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare.

The part numbers you may need are as follows:

Heating Element - 3387747
Thermal Cut-Out/Thermostat Kit - 279769

NOTE: If a replacement power cord is required, you can purchase them at any hardware store.

If you have any questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope you find this helpful.

Nov 22, 2009 | Whirlpool GGQ8831L Gas Dryer

2 Answers

Kenmore dryer not heating


The following link explains how to troubleshoot a dryer no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer will exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the washer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. I would need a model number from you to be more accurate. All Kenmore dryers are not contructed the same. The Heating Element is located inside the heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals. If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace both components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace. All these parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Aug 03, 2009 | Dryers

2 Answers

Kenmore dryer makes no heat


replace the heating element. Or the control panel has weakening capacitor not sending correct current flow to the heating element

Jul 09, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

NO HEAT


Check for 220 volts incoming at the terminal block where your cord connects.
Make certain the dryer wiring is good there also.
Check the heating element to a ground on the dryer.
Check the continuity tthrough the start switch on the motor.
for the heater wire connection.

Mar 09, 2009 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

KENMORE DRYER MODEL NUMBER 66912690 WONT HEAT


Check the voltage at the terminal block where the cord hooks up for 220 volts.
Remove the rear panel and check the thermal fuse located on the upper portion of the heat canister.
Check the Hi-limit thermostat on the bottom portion of the heat canister.
Check all the wires for a burned or loose wire.
Check continuity of the heating element.

Mar 08, 2009 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

My AMANA electric drier will not heat


Verify 220 volts to the terminal block where the cord connects.
If 220 is there, unplug the dryer and check the thermal fuse and hi-limit thermostats on the dryer cannister.

Feb 22, 2009 | Amana NDE2335AY Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Have kenmore dryer 110.86982100 does not heat changed put in new heating element and thermofuse still no heat


check and see if you have 220 volts to the dryer using a volt/ohm meter start at the dryer and work your way back following the circuit back to the fuse/breaker boxuntil you find 220 volts

Jan 06, 2009 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

No heat


If the dryer runs, but does not heat you may have a blown thermal cut-out and/or heating element. When was the last time you cleaned your dryer and ducting? If it's been a while, you may have an accumualtion of lint in the ducting or inside the dryer causing it to overheat. The thermal cut-out (TCO) is designed to blow in the event of an over temperature condition inside the dryer. This device acts like a fuse and is not resettable. If it trips, it must be replaced. The thermal cut-out (along with the hi-limit thermostat) will be mounted to the heating element housing. The TCO will read a short if good. Double check your heating element as well. The heating element should read about 9 to 13 ohms if good. If you can provide me with your model number (located along the door opening) I can locate part numbers for you and give you an idea how much repair parts may cost. In addition, I can provide you with step-by-step guidance on how to perform the repairs, if necessary. I hope this helps you.

PS If the TCO is bad, it is strongly recommended by the manufacturer that you replace the hi-limit thermostat at the same time. In many cases these two parts come together as a set.

Jan 29, 2008 | Kenmore 659 Electric Dryer

Not finding what you are looking for?
Dryers Logo

Related Topics:

52 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Dryers Experts

Dan Webster
Dan Webster

Level 3 Expert

8147 Answers

Tim Whalen

Level 3 Expert

3056 Answers

Richard Roth
Richard Roth

Level 3 Expert

9472 Answers

Are you a Dryer Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...