For the model number you have listed, you can replace the heating element by following these steps:
1. UNPLUG the dryer. Dangerous voltage is still present inside the dryer even when it is shut off.
2. Remove the lower toe panel under the dryer door. The panel comes off by inserting a putty knife along the top seam of the panel about 2 inches in from each side. There is a retaining clip on each side that you must depress in order for the panel to pop open. Open the panel and remove.
3. Open the dryer door and remove the lint filter. NOTE: You cannot remove the blower fan duct assembly with the lint screen in place (next step).
4. Locate the screws that hold the blower fan duct assembly in place and remove. Remove the ground wire and auto dry sensor wire as well (if attached to the duct assembly).
5. With the blower fan duct assembly removed, the heating element should be easily accessible on the right hand side.
6. Locate the Hi-Limit Thermostat and Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) located on the left-hand side of the heater box (these are the two small components on the outside of the heater box with wires attached to them on the left hand side. Disconnect the wires. NOTE: Make sure you label where they go.
7. The entire heater box with all components attached will come out by removing a single screw on the front bracket. Remove the screw and the entire heater box will pull free of the exhaust duct in the rear.
8. With the heater box removed, the heating element will pull out from the front by removing the mounting screws along the side of the heater box.
You can view and exploded view diagram of what I am describing by going to pcappliancerepair.com. The heating components are listed under Section 3.
The list of components are as follows:
Heating Element - Item 14
Blower Fan Duct Assembly - Item 45
Heater Box - Item 46
Thermal Cut-Out - Item 47
Hi-Limit Thermostat - Item 48
Heater Box Bracket - Item 50
If you have questions, please let me know.
NOTE: If you are experiencing problems with the dryer not producing heat, it may not be the heating. If you've confirmed the heating element to be faulty, great. If you haven't, please read through the following:
If the dryer runs, but does not heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an electric dryer with a no heat problem:http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat
First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.
If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.
NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.
The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.
If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.
All dryers are not constructed the same. However, the Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.
If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.
Replacement parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com. The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare.
The part numbers you may need are as follows:
Heating Element - 3387747
Thermal Cut-Out/Thermostat Kit - 279769
NOTE: If a replacement power cord is required, you can purchase them at any hardware store.
If you have any questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope you find this helpful.