Question about Frigidaire FGB24S5A Gas Single Oven

1 Answer

Oven Temperature Probe

My oven ignitor lights and heats through a cycle, once it reaches the set temperature and shuts off it will not re-light. I am wondering if it is most likely to be the Oven Temperature Probe rather than something else? Any help would be appreciated.

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  • catlover02 Jul 25, 2008

    My model # is FGF326ASA. tHANKS.

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  • 93 Answers

It could be your ignitor, if weak it might not be good enough to draw ampage.I would suggest to change both ignitor and temp probe to be in a safer side. part number for ignitor is 12872 $56.0+, Part # for your oven temp. sensor 833085, it should not be more than $28. other part from www.repairclinic.com.

Posted on Jul 25, 2008

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Broiling and baking element in my electric oven are not heating.


Hi.

If both broiling and baking element are not heating, then the most common fault causing the problem is a defective temperature probe.

The probe is located inside the oven cavity.
On most ovens there is only one temperature sensor, connected in series on the circuit from electroning oven control to elements. The probe will control both baking and broiling element, opening the circuit when limit temperature is reached.
When the probe fails, it will affect both baking and broiling function.

The temperature probe is tested reching the probe, cutting or disconnecting its wiring, and testing the probe at room temperature, with a multimeter set on impedance at Rx1. If the multimeter reads no continuity (circuit open), then the probe must be replaced.

If the temperature probe is good, then parts that may be responsible for the fault are oven electronic control and wiring. Having both elements failing at the same time would be rather unusual.

Regards.


on Mar 03, 2010 | Whirlpool RBS275PD Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

On my Ge electric oven, sometimes it starts but after 3-4 seconds it shuts down and the true temp light flashes, but most of the time when I push the bake button the true temp light just flashes.


Oven comes on and off intermittently or heats very little:

If the timer feature is activating and you have not touched the timer button at all, this would have to be a failed Electronic Oven Control. The timer button is either shorting at times or closing on its own from heat or moisture. The Electronic Oven Control would need to be replaced to repair the problem.

Or Why does it take the oven so long to bake?
When the food is taking way too long to bake, it's probably a weak bake ignitor. Replacing the ignitor usually fixes this problem, but you probably want to verify that the ignitor is the problem before replacing it.

Sometimes the oven thermostat or oven sensor can be calibrated wrong, or it may be faulty. If your particular range has an oven that uses an electronic thermostat, and the oven temperature is off by tens of degrees, you probably have to replace it.
On most units that have a mechanical thermostat, you can actually remove the thermostat knob, and adjust the knob to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. On many models, there's a screw on the back of the knob with a small calibration plate or ring. You can loosen this screw and adjust the calibration plate. Remember to tighten the screw again. If yours isn't adjustable, and the temperature is off by a large amount, you should just replace the thermostat.

Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage

ALSO Test the Burner Heating Element
The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings.
Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at thefuseboxorbreaker panelto avoid an electrical shock hazard.
When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps.
First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring.
Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element.
Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity.
Test theresistanceof the heating element using amulti meter. Set the multi meter to the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be.
To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continuity at any time, the heating element is defective and should be replaced.
The reason for my free advice is GOD is good!


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Jun 04, 2015 | GE Ovens

2 Answers

Lg oven turns off by itself


Oven comes on and off intermittently or heats very little:

If the timer feature is activating and you have not touched the timer button at all, this would have to be a failed Electronic Oven Control. The timer button is either shorting at times or closing on its own from heat or moisture. The Electronic Oven Control would need to be replaced to repair the problem.

Or Why does it take the oven so long to bake?
When the food is taking way too long to bake, it's probably a weak bake ignitor. Replacing the ignitor usually fixes this problem, but you probably want to verify that the ignitor is the problem before replacing it.

Sometimes the oven thermostat or oven sensor can be calibrated wrong, or it may be faulty. If your particular range has an oven that uses an electronic thermostat, and the oven temperature is off by tens of degrees, you probably have to replace it.
On most units that have a mechanical thermostat, you can actually remove the thermostat knob, and adjust the knob to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. On many models, there's a screw on the back of the knob with a small calibration plate or ring. You can loosen this screw and adjust the calibration plate. Remember to tighten the screw again. If yours isn't adjustable, and the temperature is off by a large amount, you should just replace the thermostat.

Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage

ALSO Test the Burner Heating Element
The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings.
Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at thefuseboxorbreaker panelto avoid an electrical shock hazard.
When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps.
First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring.
Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element.
Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity.
Test theresistanceof the heating element using amulti meter. Set the multi meter to the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be.
To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continuity at any time, the heating element is defective and should be replaced.
The reason for my free advice is GOD is good!



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Dec 25, 2013 | LG LWD3081ST Electric Double Oven

1 Answer

The oven does not cook the food, it only warms the food.


Two possible problems. If the oven has two or more elements for normal operation then one of these elements may be faulty. The thermostat may also be faulty and only heating to a far lesser temperature than required. The way to tell is turn the oven to a normal cooking temperature.
If the oven indicator light stays on all the time and doesn't cycle off then it may be an element problem, meaning that the oven can't reach the temperature setting desired.
If the oven indicator light goes off after a while and then cycles on and off then the thermostat is working correctly but the temperature may not be hot enough. You may have to purchase a small oven thermometer and check the oven temperature against the thermometer to get a better idea of what the problem is.

Feb 10, 2011 | Viking Ovens

2 Answers

Temperature does not always reach set point of 425 F.


Oven will not hold correct temperature:------- This can be caused if temperature probe not working.Resistance across temperature probe leads at room temperature (70°F) should be approximately 1096 ohms.----------- Other possibility for this problem is :--- Temperature control not calling for heat.When heat is required, there should be continuity between terminals 6 and 7 on temperature control.-----------Inadequate or improper ventilation.Check ventilation hood. Verify draw and make up air adjustment.-----------If all this checked out ok then its calibration problem.For calibration follow this procedure:--
It can be problem with temperature controller. TEMPERATURE CONTROLLER (Standard-Control Models Only) The calibration of the temperature controller should not be changed until sufficient experience with cooking results has definitely proved that the temperature controller is not maintaining proper oven temperatures. Before any recalibration is attempted, the oven temperature should be checked by the following procedure: 1. Remove all trays and pans from the oven. 2. Place a thermocouple or a reliable mercury oven-type thermometer at the center of the middle rack. 3. Turn the oven ON and set the temperature control knob to 400°F. 4. The amber "heat on" light will go out when the oven temperature is reached. 5. Allow three cycles for the temperature to stabilize. 6. Read the thermocouple or thermometer immediately after the light goes out for the third time, and again immediately after it comes on the next time. 7. If the average of these readings varies by more than 10°F from the dial setting, recalibrate by the following procedure. Recalibration should be attempted only by a competent service technician. Use the following procedure to recalibrate the oven: 1. Loosen the two set screws that secure the temperature-control knob to the temperature-control shaft. 2. Remove the knob from the shaft, being careful not to rotate the knob or shaft. 3. Replace the knob on the shaft so that the indicator mark on the knob points directly at the temperature that was measured at the center of the oven. 4. Re-check the oven calibration. ----------- Part number for temperature probe is 1181996 and you can order if from the Southbend service center. -------- If you want the manual and wiring diagram for your oven.Please click the link directly:-- http://www.retrevo.com/search/v2/jsp/mytrevo/myTrevo.jsp?page=man ----------- after you click the link,a page will open in that you fill the 5 letter number.And click the "download now " option.It will ask you to save or discard.Click the save option and download will start.It will take 2 mins to download.Then click the download file to open it.And go through the manual.------------This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.

Jan 28, 2011 | Southbend ES10SC Electric Single Oven

3 Answers

The oven wont heat up.


Hi.

Since the oven has two heating elements, if the oven does not heat up on any condition, and both broiling and baking element are not working, then the most common fault causing the problem is a faulty temperature probe.

The temperature probe is located inside the oven cavity.
On most ovens there is only one temperature sensor, connected in line on the circuit from electronic oven control to baking and broiling element.
When the probe fails, it will affect both baking and broiling function.

The temperature probe is tested reaching the probe, cutting or disconnecting its wiring, and testing the probe at room temperature, with a multimeter set on impedance at Rx1. If the multimeter reads no continuity (circuit open), then the probe must be replaced.

If the temperature probe is good, then parts that may be responsible for the fault are oven electronic control and wiring. Having both elements failing at the same time would be rather unusual.

If only one element is failing, then the fault is probably the element. In that case you can test the element removing it from the cavity, and testing Ohms on the element. If circuit is open , then the element must be replaced.

Regards.

Mar 03, 2010 | Frigidaire 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding...

2 Answers

Frigidaire gas oven not heating


replace the bake ignitor its getting weak

Jul 01, 2009 | Frigidaire FGB24T3A Gas Single Oven

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